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1968 coupe, 1968 vert, 1966 coupe
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Discussion Starter #1
So the new car I got to drive around was supposed to be easy to get running lol...well after getting a brand new battery, a brand new starter, a new coil, new points, new condenser, new cap, new rotor, new plug wires. Anyway so the car turns over great, the gas is getting to the carb which is good but I cannot get a darn spark!! (Yes the gap is set correctly) so can anyone please tell me what my problem might be because I can sure fix it I just have no idea what it could possibly be that’s not letting me get a spark...and before I keep playing guess the part any ideas please!!!!
 

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Do you have power to the + side of the coil with the key On?
the better question to ask is do you have power through the coil with the key on. if not then work backwards until you get power.
 

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Look under your dash at the back of the ignition switch. You should find a RED & GREEN wire coming from the "C" terminal in the plastic plug about 3-4 inches long with a female bullet connector on the end. Plugged into THAT female bullet connector should be a PINK wire. If not, find the PINK wire and plug it in. If the PINK wire IS plugged in, disconnect it from the female bullet connector, turn the ignition to the "ON" position and check for power in the female bullet connector. If no power there, check the center "B" post on the switch. If IT has power but nothing at the female bullet connector you have a bum ignition switch.

Okay, let's assume you have power at the female bullet connector. Plug your PINK wire back in, turn the ignition switch to "ON" and check for power at the female connector at the end of the BROWN wire going to the "I" post on your STARTER SOLENOID. If you have power there, your PINK resistance wire is probably fine and the issue lies in the RED & GREEN wire between the coil+ and the firewall plug. That's where the PINK, BROWN and RED & GREEN all meet.

My guess, since you don't have spark at all, which you SHOULD HAVE WHEN CRANKING, even if you had a bum ignition switch as the solenoid would provide current to the coil+, is that the RED & GREEN wire between the firewall and the coil+ has a break in it somewhere..... or you have it stuck to the temperature sender and the temp sender lead wire stuck to the coil...... :)
 

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Just for a quick test--run a jumper wire from the + battery terminal to the + coil post (after disconnection that harness wire) then try to start the car. It everything from the coil to the plugs is working, it will start or at least try to start. If it does start, you'll have to disconnect the jumper wire from the battery to turn off the engine. This will let you know the issue is in the circuit from the switch to the coil. Of course, I'm going on the premise that the engine does crank over.
 

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Just for a quick test--run a jumper wire from the + battery terminal to the + coil post (after disconnection that harness wire) then try to start the car. It everything from the coil to the plugs is working, it will start or at least try to start. If it does start, you'll have to disconnect the jumper wire from the battery to turn off the engine. This will let you know the issue is in the circuit from the switch to the coil. Of course, I'm going on the premise that the engine does crank over.
Sorry, I overlooked the part of your original post about the engine turning over.
 

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You need to unplug the positive wire to the coil when checking for available voltage, unless the points are open. With the points open you are checking for available voltage to the coil. With the points closed you are reading the voltage drop between the terminal and ground. Two completely different tests.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
or you have it stuck to the temperature sender and the temp sender lead wire stuck to the coil...... :)
Ok so the guy I got the car from had the engine re done so it’s possible wires were put on the wrong way so how do I know if they’re mixed up is it different color wires?
 

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Ok so the guy I got the car from had the engine re done so it’s possible wires were put on the wrong way so how do I know if they’re mixed up is it different color wires?
Yes. The wire to the coil+ is RED & GREEN. The wire to the temperature sender is RED & WHITE.
 

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So the new car I got to drive around was supposed to be easy to get running lol...well after getting a brand new battery, a brand new starter, a new coil, new points, new condenser, new cap, new rotor, new plug wires. Anyway so the car turns over great, the gas is getting to the carb which is good but I cannot get a darn spark!! (Yes the gap is set correctly) so can anyone please tell me what my problem might be because I can sure fix it I just have no idea what it could possibly be that’s not letting me get a spark...and before I keep playing guess the part any ideas please!!!!
check to see if the gear pin has sheared distributor
 

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1968 coupe, 1968 vert, 1966 coupe
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Discussion Starter #15
Ok guys thanks for all of the responses so checking wires and such I was able to get power to the coil and then power to the distributor but no spark at the plugs so I changed the points(set the gap) again, changed the condenser again, and the rotor again and it started finally so not to tune it up and get this b***h on the road!!!!
 

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I changed the points(set the gap) again, changed the condenser again, and the rotor again
Are you buying the cheapest ignition parts you can find- the cheap chinese crap? Their condensers have been known to be dead right out of the box. And the points shorted to ground right out of the box. If you're not paying $20-$25 for points and $10-$15 for a condenser you're buying ccc. Pay extra for Standard Blue Streak parts and you're paying for quality.
 

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1968 coupe, 1968 vert, 1966 coupe
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Discussion Starter #17
Are you buying the cheapest ignition parts you can find- the cheap chinese crap? Their condensers have been known to be dead right out of the box. And the points shorted to ground right out of the box. If you're not paying $20-$25 for points and $10-$15 for a condenser you're buying ccc. Pay extra for Standard Blue Streak parts and you're paying for quality.
they were actually all Blue Streak so I was a little surprised!
 
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