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Discussion Starter #1
I recently stripped the motor out of my 67 coupe down to the block. The stamped code shows E7TE which as far as i know means
87’ Truck Engine. The only engines that i saw that went into the truck is either a 302 or 351w. However im not sure which one i have. I will attach the pics i have of it so far please help. Thanks.
-Frank
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I did the same to my original 289 from my 68. I've got a 74 302 'truckmotor' running in the engine bay. It looks like you have a 302 but looks can decieve. You need to check the full block casting number. That looks like a head casting number unless they changed with the location and stamp in the 1980s. E = 1980s 7 is for the year. So it's a 1987 motor.

I know that in the early 80s 302's went to 50oz imbalance. Yours looks like the skinny type and I believe the 351's all stayed 28oz offset (like my 289 motor). If you know how to tell the difference betwen a 28oz or a 50oz check that. But I'd go off the block cast and Google it up. It's all out there.



Here is where the casting number on a 289 is. Mine was cast in (C = 1960s) 1966 despite being a VIN matching 1968 motor. It's on the bottom right side (what would be passenger side if engine was in the bay)where the starter would be on an old school small block.
 

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I am fairly confident that the E7TE block is a 5.0 roller block.
I see you have the intake manifold laying on the floor. As I recall the 302 manifold is about 9" wide across the top and the 351W manifold is closer to 11" wide.
 

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It's a 302, roller which is cheaper to convert to a roller cam. You can tell by looking at the flat pad just about the water pump ports, it's even/really close to even with the head gasket surface on a 302, a 351w will have the head gasket surface further away from the water pump ports. Notice on my engine here the distance between the head and the water pump.
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That's your basic 5.0/302. An easy way to tell, besides the casting number, is the height of the front lifter valley rail where it meets the intake manifold. On a 221/260/289/302/5.0 the top of the water pump is pretty much "even" with the rail. On the 351W the rail is about an inch higher.
 

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That's your basic 5.0/302. An easy way to tell, besides the casting number, is the height of the front lifter valley rail where it meets the intake manifold. On a 221/260/289/302/5.0 the top of the water pump is pretty much "even" with the rail. On the 351W the rail is about an inch higher.
Winner Winner Chicken Dinner!

Its a roller 5.0 block since it has the 2 bolt bosses in the center of the lifter valley for the lifter retainers.

 

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I was leaning more towards the 302 answer before i posted and everybody here says 302 so helps me confirm. Thank you all so much for taking some time out to help. Im going for a pretty simple budget rebuild if you guys want to throw some suggestions at me on what to keep original and what to replace that would be amazing. Thanks again!
 

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I was leaning more towards the 302 answer before i posted and everybody here says 302 so helps me confirm. Thank you all so much for taking some time out to help. Im going for a pretty simple budget rebuild if you guys want to throw some suggestions at me on what to keep original and what to replace that would be amazing. Thanks again!
Well, if you're looking to measure your cylinder bore/taper & out of round I've got a cylinder bore dial guage and a 4" - 5" micrometer I bought new. I bought these out of morbid curiosity but also so machine shops can't fool me when I rebuild. Willing to sell them if you are interested.

It's good to know your block and cyl specs. I thought mine was junk because of it's age and the prev owner saying it was rebuilt....but turned out to be an all OE block barely even .005 worn after 50 years.
 

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Well, if you're looking to measure your cylinder bore/taper & out of round I've got a cylinder bore dial guage and a 4" - 5" micrometer I bought new. I bought these out of morbid curiosity but also so machine shops can't fool me when I rebuild. Willing to sell them if you are interested.

It's good to know your block and cyl specs. I thought mine was junk because of it's age and the prev owner saying it was rebuilt....but turned out to be an all OE block barely even .005 worn after 50 years.
I really appreciate the offer on the micrometer. I would have been willing to buy especially knowing how pricey they are but i have a friend close by that has all the tools i need. Its great knowing what people have learned on the way during their first builds/rebuilds so if you have any other advice or things you learned on the way feel free to share im all hears.
 

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I really appreciate the offer on the micrometer. I would have been willing to buy especially knowing how pricey they are but i have a friend close by that has all the tools i need. Its great knowing what people have learned on the way during their first builds/rebuilds so if you have any other advice or things you learned on the way feel free to share im all hears.
That's awesome if you have thos for free. Even my Army base auto shop that has most things where I rebuilt my 68' didn't have these kinds of tools. I try to stay away from pricey one-time use tools, but this time it was well worth it.
 

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Easy way to tell...its a roller block...no 351w were roller block until 93...so if 87 and roller...it must be a 302(many other ways to tell of course as well, a tape measure being the quickest)
 
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