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Discussion Starter #1
1966 v8.Changed the shock tower on the passenger side and had to replace part of the frame rail on driver side. I decided to take a look at the shock tower and saw this plate welded in.It was just tacked welded and was only 18g so ,I decided to take it out to see if there was any damage hiding under it.everthing looked ok aside from some rust but it was solid.is this some “mustang trick”people do to shock towers and should I put it in both shock towers
 

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Hey, I just happened to weld a set of those open tracker shock tower plates in the "stock" 65 I am finally getting around to. I also welded up the stock upper control arm holes and added the arning drop holes, you know, while I was at it... :) So your find looks more like someone was tired of cleaning out that gak trap pocket ford created. I know, my welding skills need serious improvement, but, good burn thru! How did you make out on the frame rail end discrepancy?

20200427_183839[1].jpg 20200427_183634[1].jpg 20200426_153655[1].jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the pics.what is the purpose of welding the the factory control arm hole and what are arning drop holes?as far as the frame discrepancy I cut a 1/4“ off the top of the passenger side frame rail just far enough back to where it might not be seen when the radiator support is in.i will try to get pictures tomorrow I did send CJ’s an emails about the two rails being different sizes.we’ll see if they get back to me
 

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Shelby or Arning drop

 

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CJ's won't care or do anything about it, or for you. Good post by Grabber70Mach for your research thoughts! There are quite a few things you can do to improve or tweak your car that you will read about or come across. Some depend on your end goal use of the car. Some folks just want to restore to good enough, others are anal about a concours show car trailer queen, others want to race it-drags or autocross...everybody wants something a bit different. However, while your at it, and since its all apart and you are doing your own work....Yeah, do the arning drop, add the plates, weld in a cowl brace for under the export brace you should add. Decide on a straight or curved monte carlo bar, make a reinforcement plate for the firewall behind the master cyl, cut off those annoying old shock tower connector brackets, get a Zray cross member....So what type of car are you building for yourself? I thought about your rail situation over the weekend and what you did was all I could think of!. Glad it kinda worked out easy enough...just glad we have a new rail that is actually cheap enough to purchase, along with all the other crap aftermarket stuff that you have to make work and be happy with..I actually just enjoy working on the project as much as anything else though :)
 

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I see we watched the same welding tutorials on utube, lol, stack of dimes fallen over..ok....next time :)
I spend more time using the grinder than the welder. :p
Now, now, let's not talk about welding/grinding....welding...more grinding...hold head in hands awhile...(see sig!) BTW @Ue3 your work looks nice!
 

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I like the idea of slanting those plates to shed dirt and grime that finds safe harbor there. When I did my rest, that area was rusted through so I had to find scrap plate and weld it in. This was in the late 90s. geez, I better go down to the garage and check on my work, 24 years ago Egads!.
 

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Ken, caulk is our friend! My 65 passenger side looked like that, but the drivers side was fine...I did go for those plates as much to be a shield against debris as I did for any structural improvement!
 

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Thanks for the pics.what is the purpose of welding the the factory control arm hole and what are arning drop holes?as far as the frame discrepancy I cut a 1/4“ off the top of the passenger side frame rail just far enough back to where it might not be seen when the radiator support is in.i will try to get pictures tomorrow I did send CJ’s an emails about the two rails being different sizes.we’ll see if they get back to me
You think the rails are bad... just wait until you do quarter panels! LOL.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Well CJ’s did respond and said they would look into it.thanks for all the tips. I will put a set of those plates in.for the arning drop do I just drill two more holes an inch down from original holes.also,what annoying shock tower brackets are you referring too geicoman. I will post pictures of the frame rail mod later today.
 

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Glad to know they will look into it..time will tell...anyways, if your not trying to build the car back to a stock everything original car there are many things you can do. I assume you know your way around a car because not many people have the stones to cut off and weld in a new frame rail and apron! I also assume you are new to mustangs and potential modifications? The brackets I was referring to are on the top of the apron where the left and rght cowl to apron arms attach, behind the shock cap. If you are going to add an export brace, which I highly recommend, you can do away with those brackets which make it easier to get to the spark plugs and whatnot, I also think it just looks cleaner. As far as the arning/shelby drop, open tracker and others sell a metal template to bolt in place and make it very easy vs using a ruler to figure out exactly where the holes need to be drilled. I only welded the old holes up just to be neat and deceptive about any modifications to the car...rebuilding her car to look stock to the untrained eyes..including hers :)
20200428_133441[1].jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Not new to old cars,just new to mustangs. I figured those were the brackets you were talking about. I plan on making the car a driver.nothing close to a show car but something nice. I just want to make things right. I had sent you a message earlier today about another measurement.I hope you can help.I‘m looking for the measurement of the shock towers in relation to the brace on the floor that the trans cross member attaches.I’m not sure where else I can take the measurement from.it seams that the passenger side shock tower is about a 1/4” closer to the rear of the car then the driver side.not sure if it’s a big deal or not.every other measurement I have is really good aside from that one.
 

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LOL. Talk about sheet metal, etc.,,, was up at my BFF's yesterday where he is working on his '65. He replaced both front subframe extensions... the one on the driver's side has 2 "cutouts" above the bumper bracket holes that match the location and spacing for what would be, if it was installed on the RIGHT side, the battery tray. Looks like they made the dies using a "mirror image" of a passenger side rail. Oh, and the passenger side? Has NO "cutouts" for the battery tray. LOL. Oh, those orientals.....
 
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