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I re-adjusted the valves on my 302 and double checked that the distributor pointed to number one terminal when the balancer/timing mark was pointing to zero and number cylinder piston was at TDC after the intake valve cycled open and closed (had to 180 the distributor). I adjusted the valves by spinning the pushrod with my finger tips then slowly hand turning the adjusting nut until the pushrod would not spin. Then I tightened the nut 3/4 turn and/while holding the nut with a wrench, tighten the allen screw locknut. These are crane gold roller tip rockers mounted on studs, with guideplates and hardened pushrods on Edelbrock heads. anyway, I adusted each cylinder when the piston for that cylinder was at TDC on the firing stroke, determining firing stroke by watching the intake valve. I checked that it was the intake valve by noting its position above the sparkplug, as opposed to the port for the exhaust header. When I tried starting the car, it backfired once or twice, then nothing. I did a compression check on number one and came up with zero again. What could be wrong?

I talked to a local speed shop and suggested that maybe I installed the cam 180 degrees out. They said don't worry about that if I did. Every other rotation of the crank would cause the cam to line up to fire on number one at TDC. The only thing which makes a difference between the firing stroke and the intake stroke is how the valves are adjusted and the installation of the dist. Is this correct?

I am getting desperate here and am considering tearing down the front of the engine to remove the timing cover and start all over again - checking that the crank is at 12 and cam at 6 o clock when number one is at TDC, balancer at zero, and dist. pointing to number 1 terminal.

Am I adjusting the valves wrong? What else should I do?

Meanwhile, I'll work on the interior. Had to send the seat belt retractors back to Ssnake Oyl cause there was no spring tension in the retractors when I got them back from Ssnake oyl. Geeze.

Thanks for the help. Looks like I am not going to be at Knotts.

sure it's fun (most of the time), but it's only a car.
 

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You may be over tightening your valves, i tighten down untill the pushrod won't rattle up and down (slight resistance in spinning) and then go 1/2 to 3/4 turn. When we first did my engine i did it the way you described and had problems on a couple cylinders. Your just trying to get the lifter preloaded. You may be driving the piston in the lifter all the way down, and then lifting the valve with the 3/4 turn.

Regards,
BillGear

1966 Mustang Coupe, 302 custom roller cam, holley 650dp,http://www.289mustang.com
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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks, I'll try it that way.

sure it's fun (most of the time), but it's only a car.
 

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Permit me to take Bill's advice one step further...

Just tighten the rockers until you have some resistance to turning the pushrod with your fingers....that's it...
You'll likely get some ticking when starting up but at least you know the valves will be closing completely...

Did you install your own cam? If so, tell me how you determined the correct timing location for it...

Do you know how to find TDC compression on #1?

When #1 is at TDC compression, the #5 intake valve should've just closed....that's because #5 is the next cylinder in the firing order...
Is this happening in your case?

If the cam is 180 out, the timing mark on the crank sprocket and cam sprocket will both be at the top...if correct, they should face each other....
The engine will run just fine as the cam turns at half crank speed....you'll just have TDC compression on a different stroke of the crank....
However, it is a bit more difficult to determine exact cam timing mark alignment when the marks are far apart so it's easy to get the cam timing off by one tooth....

Fill us in when you have time...

Pat
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When #1 piston is at TDC and both valves on #1 cylinder are closed, THAT is #1 firing. Align the rotor button up with #1 plug wire.

When #1 cylinder is at TDC and the exhaust valve is open, that is #1 exhaust stroke

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