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@69bossnine Rick, what is the best way to get in touch with you directly. I am having an issue with bumpers I purchased and I was hoping to contact you directly.
TIA
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Ok Guys here’s the best I can do and I can almost see the same thing in one of the pictures Rick posted. So what do you think?? I am pointing where the bend starts..
743301
FC199AB0-91E7-4284-A0BC-6D07C21CA993.jpeg
743302
 

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Worn tooling would be easy to spot, the sharp bend at the edge of the hood opening would be rounded off. Even on OEM stuff, this can be seen, if you've ever had an unrestored early 65 door next to a late 66 door. Supposedly identical, the body line is noticeably sharper on the early door.

The other question is how many dies were there? It would not be uncommon to have more than one set of tooling especially if they changed the design of the tooling due to tool wear early on.

I have been working on fender alignment of my 66 today. Picked up fenders yesterday. Sorry NPD is too far away and truck shipping is quite pricey. Mine look like the ones in the above picture. The gaps look decent actually and tighter than Ricks car and I have the doors tighter gapped at the rear than usual.
The issue they all seem to have is at the top where it interferes with the little bulge on the cowl panel. The pass side one is a little too tight as in think of a C shape and it needs to open a little. Not perfect fit but for $under $300 for a new pair of fenders they really aren't bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Ok, easy to see it now. Yep that's squirrely. It looks as though it dips in at the rear bolt, comes back out in the middle, then back in between the front 2 bolt locations.
Good to see that you agree with me.
22GT any comments now??
Thanks
 

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I too see the issue but I don’t think another fender would help.

There’s no way that can be adjusted.

Honestly, on my car there are some spots that just don’t look good from reproduction metal and I just left it as there was not a lot I could do. If you go to a show, pop the hood and nobody will see it :)
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Believe me if there was a way to fix it I would not started this post..At the point of my finger it moves in about 3/8 of an inch and so does the line at the top of the fender..
My major concern is there all like this in stock as the tooling has failed.
 

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Believe me if there was a way to fix it I would not started this post..At the point of my finger it moves in about 3/8 of an inch and so does the line at the top of the fender..
My major concern is there all like this in stock as the tooling has failed.
Can you lay a straight edge along there and actually measure how much it dips in?
 

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Believe me if there was a way to fix it I would not started this post..At the point of my finger it moves in about 3/8 of an inch and so does the line at the top of the fender..
My major concern is there all like this in stock as the tooling has failed.

I see where what should be a relativly straight line on that 90* corner goes out on yours. My pass side is not from NPD but looks identical and it has that same wave to it but you really have to look for it. It is between the 2 and 3 bolt from the firewall (IIRC). Not an issue on mine.
However the rest of the fender has issues at the rear. The internal frame was attached a little low causing the top corner at the cowl/firewall to dip down. I will have to mod the flange under it to push it back up. Also the bolt that goes in from the door jamb will not go in unless I weld in a new nut (probably just do a rivnut). I also had to grind the flange down nearly to the hole for the fender to sit down low enough on the outside.

My drivers side has the little triangles like the replacement fenders and other than the curve at the front valance being too tight it dropped right into place and lined right up with the door and the bolt was insertable.

My doors are adjusted using a paint stick to the quarter so they are pretty tight there. They are a hare low for now as well. But my door to fender gaps are pretty decent after I did some fiddling with them today.






Also without really reverse engineering it.... I would assume that the long flange to the hood may be one of the last operations. I really wish someone would get together with Heritage over in England and see if they have the room for the tooling and the desire to make Mustang parts. They have ALL the tooling for MGs MINIs Triumphs TR6s and other cars. Not just the factory tooling but the punch tools and alignment jigs to where they still build new bodies with all original tooling and jigs...
 

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Also without really reverse engineering it.... I would assume that the long flange to the hood may be one of the last operations. I really wish someone would get together with Heritage over in England and see if they have the room for the tooling and the desire to make Mustang parts. They have ALL the tooling for MGs MINIs Triumphs TR6s and other cars. Not just the factory tooling but the punch tools and alignment jigs to where they still build new bodies with all original tooling and jigs...
It took about 17 years for MG to make 500k MGBs. With tooling changes. Compare that with the Mustangs. Not hard for the MGB tooling not to be worn out.
 

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Ok Guys here’s the best I can do and I can almost see the same thing in one of the pictures Rick posted. So what do you think?? I am pointing where the bend starts.. View attachment 743301 View attachment 743301 View attachment 743302
OK, so we are looking at the area of the fender from where your finger is, REARWARD towards the cowl. And yes, I remember it being a bit wonkier back there than it should be, mostly along where the fender butts-up against the upper cowl panel. You can see where the factory has to roll-over the vertical lip of the fender back there, so that there's clearance for the cowl, just behind the hinges. And since this is a manual/secondary maneuver, it can cause variation. I do not think that the fender I photographed for you was NEARLY as bad as what I see in your photos. I've also attached a photo of my low-mile coupe, which shows the gap "wandering" at the cowl by at least 1/16", just so we can keep our expectations realistic. When doing secondary operations with fixtures, this type of stuff was common even back in the day.

BUT, I'm thinking you've got a RH fender that falls outside of the standard-deviation norm.. An outlier.. But I want to go back and re-visit that fender with a straight-edge rule, and probably unwrap a couple more. Then we'll decide what to do.

My Mondays are TOTAL CHAOS, so bear with me if this slides into tomorrow. Also, where are you located?

Rick
NPD

743471
 

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why do all these little discrepancies bother everyone so much, its just a repl part.
even the NOS bad boys werent perfect to begin with

Rick is a busy guy who goes above and beyond for us.
sometimes you have just give him a break, bolt on the part and be done with it

im sure in time youll forget all about the minor imperfections it as i did

I was hell bent that my dashes direct dash pad was a bad fit. Now I dont even notice it anymore. same with my 70 front bumper thats pulled out more on the DS than it is on the PS. never even
looked at it again. never bothered me again. I can go on and on lol
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Its not the cowl area at all its from my finger toward the front there is a bow in the 90* edge from my finger foward. The left fender is fine i have some massaging to. do on it but its workable. Like i said a couple times already this fender is way off,,that line is not even close to be straight.
 

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Its not the cowl area at all its from my finger toward the front there is a bow in the 90* edge from my finger foward. The left fender is fine i have some massaging to. do on it but its workable. Like i said a couple times already this fender is way off,,that line is not even close to be straight.
He asked you where you are. The gentleman is making an effort to resolve your displeasure with the part.

My advice would be to work with him and I suspect he'll do everything in his power (considerable although not omnipotent) to address the fender issue.
 

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Post a pic with a straight edge against it as requested and let Rick know where you're located. I'm sure he'll make it right!
 

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Its not the cowl area at all its from my finger toward the front there is a bow in the 90* edge from my finger foward. The left fender is fine i have some massaging to. do on it but its workable. Like i said a couple times already this fender is way off,,that line is not even close to be straight.
I took a straight-edge back to the same fender I looked at last week, and I am not finding any "bow" whatsoever. As I said, there's a bit of variance back next to the cowl where they've rolled-over the verticle flange. But the area from your finger going forward is straight and flush to my edge.

If you could please take a photo with a straight-edge on your fender so that I can be CERTAIN that I do not send you another fender similar to what you have (I can't see what you are talking about in your photos thus-far), and let me know where you're located so that I know which NPD I need to contact to hand-inspect a fender, so that I can coach them on what to check/inspect.

Thanks!

Rick
NPD
 

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He asked you where you are. The gentleman is making an effort to resolve your displeasure with the part.

My advice would be to work with him and I suspect he'll do everything in his power (considerable although not omnipotent) to address the fender issue.
Gotta give the man a chance he mentioned earlier he had other things going on and he's from NJ according to his profile. Disregard he replied as I typed my post.
 
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