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Discussion Starter #1
I have an OEM style Rally Pack that hooks up to the pink wire by the ignition. I need to update my dizzy and electronic ignition to a pertronix dizzy setup. Is there a way to make the tach work with it?
 

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Ok, I guess you know the Pertronix has a red and brown wire. The red gets a dedicated switched 12V feed. the brown is connected to the trigger lead, I think it be your black/red or blue/red? Pertonix's directions should clarify. Also, know your tach is a current sensing tach, and connected "inline" with "run" side of your ignition switch. Like most of that era were, until the early 70s, converted to what was/is known as voltage sensing and were attached to the negative side of the coil in some way. At least I think this be correct recall. Other members will weigh in. I don't see you having any problems with your RallyPak, until you attempt to add a CD ignition box. This, is when electrical/electrics get crazy with the RallyPak.
 

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I have a OEM-style rally-pac and a petronix 1. There was no special wiring involved. Wire the rally-pac per the instructions, and the petronix per the instructions. Mine works fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I have a OEM-style rally-pac and a petronix 1. There was no special wiring involved. Wire the rally-pac per the instructions, and the petronix per the instructions. Mine works fine.
I guess I should have said original wiring OEM style Rally Pack or a replica. Others such as the Scott Drake will work. Do you know if the one you have is wired as the original was?
 

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I have an OEM style Rally Pack that hooks up to the pink wire by the ignition. I need to update my dizzy and electronic ignition to a pertronix dizzy setup. Is there a way to make the tach work with it?
Sure. Leave everything connected exactly like you have it now, and simply pull a fresh 18ga primary wire from your ignition switch "C" post out through the firewall connector (there are usually a couple blank spots... butyl-glue in a bullet connector in each half...) to connect to your Pertronix's red wire. Too easy-peasy.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Sure. Leave everything connected exactly like you have it now, and simply pull a fresh 18ga primary wire from your ignition switch "C" post out through the firewall connector (there are usually a couple blank spots... butyl-glue in a bullet connector in each half...) to connect to your Pertronix's red wire. Too easy-peasy.
Thanks Woodchuck.

Here is the dizzy I have coming.

 

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Thanks Woodchuck.

Here is the dizzy I have coming.

FWIW, the IgnitorII is the most trouble-prone of all their modules..... Also, if you have a flat tappet cam in your car you're going to quickly chew up the distributor drive gear since the distributor you ordered has a steel gear.

If you simply want to ditch the points and have a decent solid-state ignition you could go with a DurasparkII distributor triggering a Mopar ignition box and the whole set-up, even sending the distributor to Dan Nolan to have the advance curves blueprinted, will set you back less than the over-the-counter Pertronix...
 

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Discussion Starter #8
FWIW, the IgnitorII is the most trouble-prone of all their modules..... Also, if you have a flat tappet cam in your car you're going to quickly chew up the distributor drive gear since the distributor you ordered has a steel gear.

If you simply want to ditch the points and have a decent solid-state ignition you could go with a DurasparkII distributor triggering a Mopar ignition box and the whole set-up, even sending the distributor to Dan Nolan to have the advance curves blueprinted, will set you back less than the over-the-counter Pertronix...
I'm running a Duraspark II now and am having some sort of issue where when the secondaries open it is falling flat on it's face. I was using a 570 Street Avenger and now a 650 Edelbrock AVS. Plenty of fuel pressure with the Edebrock hi flow pump too Thinking it's in the timing advance curve now. I didn't install the Duraspark II dizzy and module I simply reused it when I had the motor rebuilt.

It is a roller motor, however I didn't change the original Dizzy gear which was the Duraspark II when I switched over from flat tappet to roller. Hopefully didn't hurt anything for the limited amount of time it has been in the motor.
 

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I'm running a Duraspark II now and am having some sort of issue where when the secondaries open it is falling flat on it's face. I was using a 570 Street Avenger and now a 650 Edelbrock AVS. Plenty of fuel pressure with the Edebrock hi flow pump too Thinking it's in the timing advance curve now. I didn't install the Duraspark II dizzy and module I simply reused it when I had the motor rebuilt.

It is a roller motor, however I didn't change the original Dizzy gear which was the Duraspark II when I switched over from flat tappet to roller. Hopefully didn't hurt anything for the limited amount of time it has been in the motor.
If you're NOT running a billet-steel roller cam, like the OEM Ford or Ford "letter" cams then you should be fine with a cast iron distributor gear. What roller cam are you using?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
If you're NOT running a billet-steel roller cam, like the OEM Ford or Ford "letter" cams then you should be fine with a cast iron distributor gear. What roller cam are you using?
Using a Lunati EFI compatible 218/218 112lsa .525 lift. 351w firing order. Nothing to radical.
 
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