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Discussion Starter #1
I know this is an old Question, but the search didn't give me the answer. I think I want to put disk brakes in the Boy's 66 coupe. What do I look for as far as year and what do I need off of the donor car? What else will be needed? Is it a simple bolt up?
Thanks for putting up with this repeated question.

JB
 

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75-79. If you get newer than about 80 or 81, you run into the "fox body" type chassis with macpherson struts. Feel free to PM me or post here if you have questions about the swap. I don't know it all, but I finished my granada rebuild last week and will install them next week. Mine were from a 75.

Oh yeah, try this link too. http://pwp.clearsource.net/dsigns/james/Disc%20Brakes.htm Print it out also...It was my "bible" as for parts needed and rebuild details. Hope this helps.
 
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Thanks, 22oots. Was it hard, easy, what is involved?

JB
 

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its cheaper and better to go other routes.... in my opinion
 

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I just edited my reply for an easier link to the Jame's swap. The disk brake rebuild was fairly easy and is if you are comfortable doing that kind of stuff. Try to find a setup that is still full of fluid and has good rotors. I paid $150 for mine and the rotors just needed turned, not replaced. The pads were good, but I replaced them with a medium grade set from NAPA. I pushed the pistons out of the calipers with compressed air. BE CAREFUL doing that!/forums/images/icons/smile.gif I used a small 1x4 block of wood as a stop to keep the piston from shooting against the metal from the calipers. After that, I replaced the piston bore and dust seals. Also replaced the wheel bearings and races. Bought new Granada outer tie rod ends, which you will need for the swap.

So in a nutshell, the junkyard pulled the brake assy and the proportioning valve. You will need the prop valve too.
Dissassembled everything, then took the parts to the radiator shop and they boiled the parts.
Had the rotors turned. Repainted the parts and reassembled them. Took about a day to reassemble.
Dont put your dust shields on backwards like I did and have to take everything apart to swap sides. The calipers don't fit if the dust shields get installed on the wrong sides. Also, the calipers adjust in/out with an allen screw bolt so your thick pads will fit over the rotors.

So far I have $320 in mine less the brake lines and 74 Maverick dual M/C. The MC is $40 new at NAPA. Rotors cost $25 to turn. Pads, bearings, seals, outer tie rod ends, paint, supplies cost $120. I would re-build the brakes first as a separate project, then do the swap on a long weekend as the second project.
 
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So, once you get the parts cleaned up, it's a direct replacement? No cutting , grinding or welding? Cool.

JB
 

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Yep, so far, so good. The 14x6 slotted mags even fit over the calipers. Sometimes backspacing differences require one to grind a bit off the calipers so the wheels fit. The early mustang styled wheels have that problem from what I've read. Other than that, it should be a direct bolt on replacement. The bearcat is routing the new brake lines. Jame's swap covers that step really well. I won't get to that point for some months yet, so haven't gotton my feet wet with brake line routing issues and can't be much help there. The 74 maverick dual reservoir M/C is supposed to be a direct bolt on replacement for the old canning jar single res. However, the dual res M/C will not provide brake failure safety unless you use the granada, or very similar proportioning valve. Good luck and let us know how it goes.
 
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I used 76 Monarch spindles and disc's for $100; I bought new calipers for $15 each, had the rotors turned for $12, new nose pair cost $16, new bearings and seals were $30, new pads were $20.

I replaced the jar pot MC on my 65 for the Granada's manuel brake MC for $14, replaced the front steel line for $30 including adapter fittings (the Granada MC came with a new push rod and it matched up perfectly on the 65 coupe.

Over all I spent less than $250 and the brakes work great
 
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