Vintage Mustang Forums banner

21 - 39 of 39 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,844 Posts
Many years ago friend of mine had the oil line pop loose on a mechanical gauge which sprayed hot oil on his legs (and polyester pants). To this day when he wears shorts you can see the big splotchy birthmark-like purple scars all over his legs. Never minding his particular hows and whys that pretty much put me off running a mechanical oil gauge. Ever.
I had the same thing happen but it busted loose under the hood. Sprayed the oil out in a mist and it caught fire. Obviously stopped when I shut down the motor but I will never run a mechanical gauge again. I know they are more accurate but IMO an electric one is close enough.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
45 Posts
Zray and I run similar setups. I too, left my electrical gauge in place and added the extension to facilitate adding a copper line concealed within that corrugated covering to my gauge. It's been in play for 8-10 years.
To my eye, it's just looks better.
Ken this looks great and is functional as well. Did you do the same with your stock temp gauge? Do you have a photo? I want to keep all of the stock lights/gauges working but add my own gauge panel to monitor with accuracy. Thanks.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
45 Posts

·
Administrator
Joined
·
19,409 Posts
Not much more than the price of a tap needed to modify a used single style extension (that you drilled out). Looks like a good copy of the original Ford part too. Too easy to just buy one.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,358 Posts
OK, this is my setup...Yes, I left my stock electrical gaige in place. Beneath that spiral looking cover is a copper tube up to the gauge installed in the engine compartment.
738413
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
33,843 Posts
If I were to run a mechanical oil pressure gauge then I would run 3/16" STEEL tube to the extension via a IVF to NPT adapter, secure the line along the oil pan rail via clamps then up at the rear of the engine secured to the back of the LH cylinder head and, at a bracket there, to a IVF to compression adapter to 1/8" or 3/16" copper (with a couple loops) to the gauge. I'd be really tempted to use a bulkhead connector and, again, 3/16" steel to the gauge.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
12,955 Posts
My first mechanical oil pressure gauge was installed using a copper line. Despite using stree reducing loops, after about 10 years it developed a hairline crack. Too much high rpm I guess ......
;)
;)
;)

So I switched to the nylon line. It has about the same length of time on it, and no issues so far.

But if I was ever to install another one, I'd opt for a braided steel line. Pricey, but less likely to give problems than any other type, imho.

I kept the stock steel sending unit extension, and threaded a brass "Y" connector into it, thereby letting me keep the stock sending unit and gauge.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
19,409 Posts
Every time I've tried to say something about copper lines work hardening and failing plus being "illegal" according to the rules of every racing body everywhere I always get some guy who has been running this one copper line on this one vehicle happily for X amount of years.
An airplane guy I know mentioned once how some very old planes had some sort of copper lines to the engine that had to be removed once a year per regulations and re-annealed to prevent embrittlement and failure. That's all I recall from that though. Not what lines and what plane(s).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,358 Posts
Every time I've tried to say something about copper lines work hardening and failing plus being "illegal" according to the rules of every racing body everywhere I always get some guy who has been running this one copper line on this one vehicle happily for X amount of years.
An airplane guy I know mentioned once how some very old planes had some sort of copper lines to the engine that had to be removed once a year per regulations and re-annealed to prevent embrittlement and failure. That's all I recall from that though. Not what lines and what plane(s).
Coincidentally, I'm "that guy" that, currently, has a short run of copper line installed as noted in my earlier post. It's been in service since the early 2000s. However, due to all of the current banter, am in the process of replacing it with this......https://www.autometer.com/3-3an-3ft-3-16-id-fittings.html
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
12,955 Posts
Coincidentally, I'm "that guy" that, currently, has a short run of copper line installed as noted in my earlier post. It's been in service since the early 2000s. However, due to all of the current banter, am in the process of replacing it with this......https://www.autometer.com/3-3an-3ft-3-16-id-fittings.html
I was worried the 3 ft. line wouldn't be long enough, so was going to get this one (5 ft.) :


Z
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,358 Posts
I was worried the 3 ft. line wouldn't be long enough, so was going to get this one (5 ft.) :


Z
I can imagine if your gauge is in the interior. Mine is located on the fender apron.......
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,575 Posts
I drilled the original extension and mounted the aftermarket sender. It’s a pain to install (the drilling and tapping is easy). It had a slight leak that looks to be interference from surrounding part not allowing a full seal. I couldn’t get the last few thread to seat when installed. I’ve since plugged it and will remote mount it using braided hose with AN fittings. That’s how we did it in the race cars. I was hoping to hide the new sender down by the original to keep the look in the bay more or less period correct.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,358 Posts
I drilled the original extension and mounted the aftermarket sender. It’s a pain to install (the drilling and tapping is easy). It had a slight leak that looks to be interference from surrounding part not allowing a full seal. I couldn’t get the last few thread to seat when installed. I’ve since plugged it and will remote mount it using braided hose with AN fittings. That’s how we did it in the race cars. I was hoping to hide the new sender down by the original to keep the look in the bay more or less period correct.

I've purchased a number of products from Pegasus. A good vendor to have on record.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Not the exact setup you want, but you would replace the gauge with the sender or pressure line. Not using factory extension here. Sorry for blurry pic.
1/4, 1/4. and 1/8. They have it in 1/4 for all 3 fittings as well.


 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,358 Posts
A thought, when replacing an oil pressure line, should one prime the tube/line to remove air before connecting at either end? Maybe overthinking it a bit, though.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
336 Posts
A thought, when replacing an oil pressure line, should one prime the tube/line to remove air before connecting at either end? Maybe overthinking it a bit, though.
Pressure is pressure. Even if there is an air bubble, the pressure is still the same. Air will slow down the response time in a system with fast response time but this is not important for oil pressure......
 
21 - 39 of 39 Posts
Top