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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
my 351w isnt getting oil up to the valves apparently, although my oil pressure is fine as checked off the sending unit. when i take off the filler cap with the engine running, not only do i not see any sign of oil circulation-- not even any push of air out of the filler hole. oil level is fine, pressure as i said reads fine (i removed the sensor to check it mechanically), i have a minimal drip leak from the front seal, but it is literally a couple drops a day. I'm obviously not driving the thing but i'm confused... why would the pump, as it seems to be functional, not move oil throughout the engine? i've got no oil in my coolant, no apparent cracks, etc. is it time for a rebuild? what could be causing this? i'm going nuts! thanks.
 

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Hi, have you done a recent rebuild? One thing to check (but you'd have to remove the intake to do it, is the oil valley cap at the rear of the engine block. It's directly in the center rear valley between the lifer bores, there is a small moon shaped plug that get's 'peened' into this hole. I had one on a new rebuild that the rebuilder didn't peen it hard enough and it flipped sideways dropping the pressure in the system.
Just a thought,
Jon
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
No new rebuild. engine's been running fine for about 90,000 since the last one. wondering if a worn camshaft bearing could cause this particular problem? if that's the case is a rebuild the only option?
 

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when i take off the filler cap with the engine running, not only do i not see any sign of oil circulation-- not even any push of air out of the filler hole
You should have a baffle under the oil filler cap, so you will see nothing. The valve covers are not under pressure, so you will not feel any air coming out unless your engine has some SERIOUS blow-by.

Are your rockers clattering like crazy? If not, I don't understand why you even think you have a problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I didn't know about the baffle. maybe I AM nuts! thing is, my harmonic balancer kinda clicks and there is some clatter which i believe are valves/lifters... there's no knocking to speak of... I just was told that my cam/bearings ARE worn and i would eventually need a rebuild so the dip in oil pressure scared me so i checked it out and it was ok. so if i've got no scary noises/knocking, my pressure reads good and there is no overheating, i should be able to cruise it for awhile? p.s. the timing doesn't stay 'correct' for more than a couple months. am assuming that's cuz the balancer/cam is getting sloppy? sorry, im all over the place... i've got nothing else to drive and i'm scared to drive it. thanks for all the input.
 

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If you're feeling adventuresome, you can pop off one of the valve covers and then run the engine briefly, 15-30 seconds should be ample, to really see if oil is getting pumped up the pushed rods. I had an oil pump fail before and the valves made a horrible racket, after a day or so.
 

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Xanax... LOL

Instincts: Oiling system is fine. An analysis of an oil sample would tell many tales, likely none of them fatal.

Timing changes are likely due to movement of the point setting and/or abnormal wear of those parts. If you know what you're looking for, you can check for a worn distributor/timing chain with a timing light.

Who told you your cam/bearings were worn? Whatever you do, I suggest avoiding them for any meaningful repairs LOL
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
is ativan ok? :p
well, i'm using pertronix, so i've got no points. my oil tends to darken fairly rapidly after an oil change and there IS a very slight knocking coming from the block, hard to pinpoint w/out a stethascope or something. don't really know about this mechanic either, to tell the truth. he seems to think it's only a (short) matter of time before I throw a rod. would a leakdown test tell me anything or do I need the actual oil analysis? thanks!
 

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Is the knock more prevalent when the engine is cold?

Oil darkening is a sign of combustion gas contamination, or possibly an over-rich condition.

A leakdown test is a good place to start. The warm numbers should be telling.

Even with electronic ignition, there are issues with the distributor which could contribute to timing irregularities.
 
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