Vintage Mustang Forums banner

1 - 8 of 8 Posts
G

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I need help installing my intake manifold gasket on a 2v cleveland with a performer 351- old school style.
I have already paid 26 dollars for a gasket that I screwed up and I want to get it right tommorow when I install another one.
Someway gas was mixing in with my oil. I guess I didn't seal or torque the manifold enough. Though I thought I did.
I am using the paper gasket over the intake ports with a valley pan and RTV sealer.
Heres how I installed the gasket...
Put rtv around ALL the intake ports then intalled the paper gasket. Then I put RTV on the outside of the paper gasket and put the valley pan over it. (The valley pan Port holes are about about 1/4 bigger than the intake ports .) Then I rtv'ed the manifold to the valley pan. Then torqued it down to 26 lb's of torque. I think I may have done it in a 351 windor pattern but I dont think that would be the problem. Did I do this right? I had a bad gas leak though I dont know what cylinder. I think 7 or 8 though. Thanks for the help.
 
G

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Josh,

Why were you replacing the gasket in the first place? Was it because you had a leak or something? If so what kind of leak? How about the leak you have now? Are you sure that it is gas, and not water getting into the oil. In order for you to get enough gas in the oil to tell, you would have to have one mighty leak. What are your indications? Does the oil have whitish streaks, or have a white milky kind of look? Does the exhaust have steam, and water splatter from the exhaust pipe? Does the engine overheat easily? If you have any of these symptoms then you may have inadvertantly loosened up a head gasket on the first torque job for the intake manifold. I'm not saying you don't have gas in your oil, but oil dilution is difficult to notice unless it is severe. One last question, do you have a shop manual - not a chilton, but a honest to goodness Ford shop manual?

Anyhow if you don't have water in the oil, and fairly certain that it is a gas leak then I'd say the RTV is the correct way to go as long as it is made for intake manifolds. I think it should be blue. One thing to check closely is the back valley cork gasket. They are easily moved out of position. Before you start to torque the bolts use an inspection mirror to inspect, or use your fingers to feel and make sure that it is in place. If you have a friend with a head the size of a walnut he can just stick his head back there and look! /forums/images/icons/smile.gif Above all else follow closely the torque sequence for your manfold! Some gasket companies say to use their instructions instead of the shop manual but I always follow ford specs - to the letter!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,960 Posts
Maybe you should consider using the Felpro no retorque gaskets for your intake.....

The gasket is already lined with a bead of silicone material All you would need to do is apply a thin layer of silicone around each port
and a thick bead on front and rear of the intake mating surface of the block.

This way regardless of the torquing your seals will seal and you will not leak....torque sequence should be close.....with additional bolts for the Cleveland.

regards
 
G

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
I dont know how it could be head gasket. I did not have this crap in the oil before I pulled my intake to change intakes. I jammed a putty nife between the head and the manifold and took a BFH and jammed it down to pry the manifold off. Could that of screwed up a head gasket? Im thinking it is gas in the oil because my oil smells like gas /forums/images/icons/smile.gif Its like capachino color. with some streaks. Reardless, the intake is off now and Im gonna try to install tommorow. Should I seal the valley pan to the intake before I put it over the other gasket? Otherwise its hard to line up. I dont know. I cant believe the gasket they gave me is made out of THIN paper. I think that is the problem. Thanks.
 
G

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
I accidently had my timing at 45 degrees ATDC(not before) at initial startup and I had a big flame/backfire. Could that blow a head gasket?? If I blow a gasket is that a big deal? How hard is it to replace? Then again , if I cant put on a manifolf gasket right, I shouldnt even touch a head gasket /forums/images/icons/frown.gif
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
193 Posts
If you have a significant amount of gas in the crankcase I would have to single out a bad fuel pump. If you don't correct it shortly, you are going to damage rings, bearings and all the other soft gaskets in your engine. Not to mention the danger of a fire or explosion under the hood. The gas in the crankcase will greatly lower the viscosity of your oil and is washing the inside of the engine. Which at this point is not a good thing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,663 Posts
Could be fuel pump ,,But it probably was just way too fat of carb fuel settings ,,it is aesy to get those engine too fat ,, a common mistake when tryin to make them run better is dump more fuel in them but not changing ignition and timing will make them "gas up" the oil
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
133 Posts
I installed the Performer intake on my 351C but I used the Felpro gaskets and sealed them with Edelbrock's gasket sealer. I didn't use the valley pan gasket because it looked like I would have problems sealing the front and back areas between the block and intake manifold. I just put RTV in these areas and didn't use the cork or rubber seals. I had gas in my oil and it turned out to be a bad fuel pump.
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top