Vintage Mustang Forums banner

1 - 6 of 6 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello ,

My 67 Mustang coupe is completely bare on the inside post body work and paint. The steering column is out and just about everything else except the dash panel. What should I install first?

For example, all electrical > steering column > firewall pad > Carpet ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,838 Posts
  • Sound Deadener, if you plan to.
  • Any seat belt modifications like 3 point.
  • Wiring from end to end, including stereo and speaker wiring. Also kill switch and or alarm, extra 12v wire to trunk for light or future amp.
  • Headliner then windshield and back window.
  • Weather stripping for door windows.
  • Door & quarter glass.
  • Door and quarter glass beltline rubber and felts.
  • Metal divider between trunk and rear seat.
  • Carpet.
  • Seat belts.
  • Heater box.
  • Dash pad, glove box, switches, then instruments, ash tray.
  • Pedals.
  • Steering column and parking brake.
  • Door and rear interior panels.
  • Rear seat then front seats.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Aggisport

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,424 Posts
I like 65GTFB's advice. Water leak test it around the glass reinstall areas before putting the carpet or trim panels in. I would also stamp or scribe the vin in some hidden places and document that...in case the car is ever stolen and stripped, it may help LE, you never know...Lots and lots of hidden scribe and stampings on my k code body and components...someone may steal it, but they are going to be very disappointed if they try to strip and sell things off it, and hopefully caught !!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
829 Posts
I wish I had saved the name of the person that posted this, to give credit. Reverse the order:
1968 Mustang disassembly process
Day 1
a Wash car thoroughly
b Lift the car to gain lower access to the front end
c Tag the front valance running lights and disconnect
d Remove the front lower valance and front bumper drop downs
e Tag the wiring and disconnect the fog, side, and headlight
f Remove the side bumper to fender bolts
g Support the front bumper (you can use bailing wire and tie it to the grill) then unbolt and remove the front bumper assembly
h Remove the grill assembly by removing the grill reveal molding first and then one side of the inner molding to allow the assembly to come through the fender opening. You’ll remove the hood latch assembly now also
Day 2
a Remove rocker moldings by removing the bolt at the front then unsnapping from rocker clips
b Remove fenders and unbolt antenna. Record where any shims were located. I had no shims on top. I had 1 shim at either the lower near door or in the somewhere in the jam area on Passenger side. No shims on driver’s side
c Make sure at reassembly to replace headlight and fender area splash guards. Also add weather seal on top of fender apron to fender.
d Tag horn wires and remove
e Disassemble components from fenders including: running lights, splash shield, headlight doors, headlight buckets, chrome trim there are 2 clips on the headlight bucket and 1 clip for the door jamb bolt that are clipped on each fender
Day 3 and 4
a Drivers door disassembly while on car. Remove rubber piece at base of window in jam area.
b Remove passenger inner door / window plate.
c *to remove glass: Remove 3 screws that attach the horizontal tract to window frame. Remove the lock tower water seal. Then remove the �� bolt that attaches the rear window stop. You will need to loosen or remove the vent window bolts and lower adjusting bolts to **** it forward so the window can be pulled out
Day 5
a Remove battery
b Mark all hoses in engine compartment
c Remove air cleaner
d Drain radiator
e Remove top radiator hose
f Remove lower radiator hose
g Remove lower then upper heater hoses
h Unbolt fan shroud and lay it over the fan
i Reinstall shroud screws to radiator
j Disconnect trans cooling lines from radiator
k Tape cardboard over radiator fins for protection and then remove radiator
l Reinstall radiator bolts and radiator cap on radiator and store
m Remove fan assembly
n Mark fan belts and remove
o Remove fan pulley and use nuts to reassembly fan, spacer, and pulley for storage as a unit
p Mark all wires to alternator and remove alternator and bracket. Reassemble using nuts and store
q Mark solenoid wires and remove solenoid
r Remove wind shield washer fluid reservoir
s Remove power steering pump and bracket. Reassemble using nuts and store
t Drain fuel tank
Day 6
a Loosen exhaust to manifold top bolts
b Remove trans dip stick to block bolt
c Disconnect block to firewall ground wire
d Disconnect quick connect to ground on drivers side firewall
e Disconnect carburetor to accelerator rod at firewall
f Mark and disconnect lines to carburetor
g Pull carburetor and cover intake hole with plate. *note: �� nuts were on drivers side and 7/16” nuts on passenger
h Mark and remove exhaust manifold to choke tube
i Remove exhaust warm-up baffle
j Remove hood hinges and note any shims. I had 1 on each side
k Remove water pump and make note of which bolt goes where. Mark bolts upon removal
l Remove main pulley from harmonic balancer
Day 7
a Drain Engine oil
b Pull drive shaft
c Remove trans inspection cover and drain trans fluid (2 plugs on converter)
d Reinstall inspection cover
e Loosen transmission pan to finish draining. Leave one bolt in. Reinstall pan once drained
f Unbolt exhaust to manifold bolts lower. You’ll remove exhaust once rear end is pulled
g Disconnect speedo cable from trans
h Unbolt trans from cross member
i Loosen cross member to frame bolts
j Remove trans kick down cable and spring
k Disconnect shift bar to trans
l Remove trans dip stick assembly
m Disconnect trans cooling lines at trans
n Loosen motor mount bolts ( the ones that join the two halves)
o Lower car
p Unbolt exhaust to manifold bolts upper
q Remove export brace / shock tower to firewall supports
r Connect cherry picker to to engine with pulling chains
s Remove motor mount bolts you loosened earlier
t Pull engine and transmission out as one unit. (making sure you disconnected everything first)
u Remove hood to cowl weather strip
v Remove wiper fluid sprayers
w Remove windshield wipers
x Remove front and rear window and back light moldings
y Remove windshield and back light
z Remove windshield and back light molding clips
Day 8
a Remove power steering hose clamp bracket from motor mount at shock tower on driver’s side
b Remove motor mounts from shock tower
c Remove master cylinder
d Unclip washer fluid tubes from apron and wire harness (they are clipped together)
e Set washer tubes and wire harness to the side. You pull them through the fire wall once the interior is removed
f Disconnect brake lines from distribution block and remove block from apron
g Remove brake lines in engine bay area
h Disconnect blower motor wires at firewall
Day 9
a Remove steering wheel By:
A) Remove two screws that hold the crash pad to steering wheel
B) Pull steering wheel
b Remove turn signal arm
c Remove ash tray and lighter
d Remove inner ash tray (3 screws)
e Remove the inner (side) instrument cluster mounting screw that is located in the ash tray compartment area
f Remove the four screws holding the heater control panel and let the control panel rest for now
g Remove the rest of the instrument cluster mounting screws ( three at top and one or two on the bottom
h Slide the instrument cluster out as far as you can
i Now reach through the heater control panel opening and unscrew the speedo cable. You can now remove the instrument cluster
j Remove the inner glove box (4 screws)
k Remove the glove box door from dash
l Remove the radio and radio bezel
m Remove dash trim pieces
n Remove the windshield side trim pads that go from the dash to the roof
o Remove the upper dash pad to windshield trim pieces
p Remove the two screws (one on each side) they are located inside the dash area and that hold the ends of the dash pad to the dash. You can now lift the dash pad out
q Remove the defrost duct tubes
r Mark and disconnect the heat/temp/defrost cables from the heater plenum
s Slide out the heater control panel with the cables
t Remove door opening sill plates
u Remove toe kick panels
v Mark and disconnect the tail light wires at the toe kick area, both sides. NOTE the wires that go back to the tail lights are covered in a webbed sheathing and the channel was covered with a duct tape followed by the carpet
w Mark and disconnect the door open switches on both sides
x start marking and disconnect the rest of the wire harness connectors as follows: A) Disconnect and mark the blower motor leads and push through firewall
NOTE: the wire harness has T-Brackets that are taped to the harness and then clip to the firewall for securing the harness in place. Tape the where they go for future reference. ALSO, a few connectors are not used. Label them as such.
y NOTE: the �Ground Wire just above the steering column� stakon goes through the brace and into a clip that contains a flasher/fuse
Day 10
a remove the antenna
b remove foot pump for washer fluid
c remove steering column (2 bolts at column to gear box union and 6 bolts under dash
d pull speedo cable through firewall
e push oil pressure/water temp wires and grommet through firewall into cab
f unbolt main fuse block
g disconnect wires marked by me A1 through A9 and push harness out through firewall
WIRES A1 through A9 locations and notes
h A1: near brake pedal (they had it routed through firewall with the speedo cable. It was spiced into the main harness near the headlight area. (some kind of repair)
i A2: ground wire from blinker block? Next to fuse block and gets landed to the wind shield wiper motor support bracket by a spade clip
j A3: from fuse block harness to under carpet at trans tunnel. Probably for the shifter light
k A4: fog lamp block near fuse block
l A5: connection near light switch
m A6 through A9: go around driver’s side cowl vent and out the firewall. There are 2 large hanger clips at the top of the driver’s toe kick panel at the top near the dash that hold this harness
Continued
n Unbolt dimmer foot switch (hi lo beams) as well as the harness strap just above the switch
o Unplug head light switch and remove switch
p Unscrew the c-clamp the secures the main harness near the steering column
q Remove ignition switch
r MAIN HARNESS will know come out, remove it
s Unscrew parking brake and vent cable knob bracket from dash. They attach with the same screw
t Remove drivers and passenger’s seats
u Remove floor shifter
v Remove front seat belts
w Remove heater plenum. There are 4 screws at the blower motor in engine bay and 1 under the dash
Day 11
a Remove rear seat
b Remove rear window crank arms and quarter trim panels (Note: There were two � x 20 nuts on each side acting as shims to space the quarter trim to seat back gap)
c Remove package tray which is just held in by the clips at the top of the seat back. Also, there is a piece of card board the same shape as the package tray between the fiber package tray and the metal
d Remove carpet
Day 12 (Quarter Glass Removal)
a Remove quarter glass rubber door-jam seals
b Remove window regulator (4 screws)
c Remove regulator channel (2 screws)
*NOTE: The (6) screws above all look the same and are the screws you see when looking at the inner panel
d Remove the lower window stops (2)
e Remove the (3) screws that attach the window guide bracket to the car. Now you can slide the window out followed by the bracket. *NOTE: I put the (3) screws back in the clips in the car
Follow the above procedure for the other side rear quarter glass and regulator removal.
*NOTE: the driver’s side was missing a stop bracket that was present on the passenger’s side. The screw for the bracket looks similar to the (6) screws that mount the regulator and channel mentioned above. It goes in the oblong screw opening.
f Remove rear seat belts
HEADLINER TIME
g Remove sun visors and coat hangers
h Remove map light outer bezel
i Remove upper door opening C-channel plastic trim on both sides
j Remove headliner *NOTE: mark each curtain rod as to its location and record curtain rod hole locations
k Remove map light base and wire
l Remove roof and sail panel insulation
Day 13
a Remove foot pedal from accelerator bar so bar can be removed through firewall
b Remove accelerator pedal assembly from firewall (3 screws)
c Remove brake rod that goes through firewall by pulling the cotter pin that holds it to the brake pedal arm. The brake light contact switch comes off with it.
d Remove parking brake lever assembly by removing the (2) screws that attach it to the firewall in the engine bay area. Now that the tension is of the cable, you can disconnect the parking brake cable from the lever. Then remove the cotter pin on roller so cable will come out. Push the cable out the firewall. NOTE: there is a little spring and H shaped piece that act as the latch for the parking brake lever
e Remove the driver’s side cowl vent drop down and cable assembly (3) screw, some were missing
f Remove the firewall insulation pad (foot area). It is held in place with rubber plugs that attach it to the firewall.
g Remove the plastic windshield defrost plenums
h Remove the windshield wiper motor assembly. (3) screws on each wiper and (4) screws on the motor bracket. NOTE: there was some sort of tubular caulk piece around the extensions the wiper arms attach to the goes through the cowl hole.
i Remove the front speaker
j Remove the tape that covers the wire tray on both sides of door opening under the sill plate
k Remove brake pedal lever assembly
Day 14 Trunk Area
a Remove drip edge molding using can opener
b Remove the window weather stripping top channel
c Empty everything from trunk including: cardboard filler piece, spare tire, matt, tar strip
d Remove mustang letters from deck lid
e Remove deck lid rubber bumpers
f Remove deck lid latch bracket from the deck lid
g Remove deck lid
h Mark wiring at tail lite housing
i Remove tail lite housings
j Remove side marker reflectors
k Remove trunk area wire securing tabs protector pieces.
l Fish out the tail lite wire harness from passenger side to the driver’s side. There is a securing clip on the driver’s side located on the outer wheel housing
m Pull rear tail lite harness from trunk into the back seat area
n Remove license plate
o Push the license plate wire grommet through the hole (out of the trunk). Then unbolt the rear bumper and remove the bumper with the license plate lite. *NOTE: 2 washers were missing on the bumper bolts.
p Remove rear bumper drop downs
q Mark and disconnect the fuel gauge wire and the fuel line at the tank.
r Remove fuel tank filler neck assembly by 1st removing then gas cap and then the fill tube. *NOTE: a cork gasket goes between the fill tube flange and the body. Also, the gas cap anchor cable goes at 4:00
s Push rear running lite grommets through the wheel well drop down panels
t Remove rear valance. *NOTE: 1st unbolt the 2 nuts on the inside and then the outer screws
u Remove the rear bumper drop down support brackets
v Remove the fuel tank trunk bolts and lift out the fuel tank
w Remove the trunk lock assembly
x Remove rear quarter extensions and trim pieces from extensions. *NOTES: They used a tar caulk the (3) nuts that attach the extensions to seal the trunk from water. Also, each side has (3) nuts, (3) washers, rubber seal, (1) sheet metal screws
Day 15 Rear Suspension
a Remove rear wheels
b Remove all brake parts
c Disconnect brake line at junction block on axle so you will be able to remove rear axle
d Unbolt rear shocks lower bolt from spring to axle plate
e Remove the (4) U-bolts securing the axle to the springs and remove the plate
f Support the rear axle with a jack
g Remove exhaust hanger near rear leaf spring shackle so you can access the shackle
h Remove rear shackles and lower the rear side of leaf springs
i Pull out rear axle assembly
j Finish removing rear springs
k Finish removing exhaust system
Day 16
a Finish removing rear shocks top nuts
b Remove fuel sending unit wire. Push grommet into trunk. Remove wheel house lip wire securing clip and fish the harness out and into the cab along with the map lite wire. You can now remove that section of harness which starts under the dash and goes through the door sill.
c Remove the driver’s side brake lite harness also. NOTE: both sides have a securing clip at the base of the door pillar the is worked into the harness sheathing.
d Remove door striker post
e Remove the plastic raceway that is screwed into the fuel tank opening. It protects the fuel sending unit wire
FRONT SUSPENSION REMOVAL TIME
f Remove front shocks
g Disconnect the outer tie rod ends from the steering arms
h Compress and remove the coil springs. NOTE: the end that squares itself is the top.
Day 17 Front Brakes and Steering Components
Front Brake Removal Process:
a Remove dust cap, castle nut and outer bearing from brake drum
b Remove all brake hardware
Remove Spindle with Brake Backing Plate
c Disconnect brake hose from the brake line which is mounted on the outer shock tower area using flare nut wrenches. Remove the C-Clip to free the hose from the bracket
d Remove the upper and lower spindle to ball joint castle nuts. Then use a pickle fork to open the joints. Spindle is now free. Make sure not to drop the spindle * NOTE: The taller castle nut goes on the bottom. Also, you may need to temporarily remove the (2) strut bolts on the lower arm to get at the lower ball joint with a pickle fork or puller.
e Remove the strut. Make sure to mark and make a note of where the inner nut is so you can put it back to that location since this is part of the front end alignment
NOW DO THE OTHER SIDE OF CAR
f Remove stabilizer bar
g Remove lower control arms
h Remove the entire steering assembly as a unit by removing (2) idler arm mounting bolts, (3) power steering cylinder bracket bolts, and then remove the (3) steering gear box mounting bolts. The entire assembly will now be on the floor. You can rebuild it on the bench
Day 18
a Remove doors with hinges on. NOTE: the smaller inside hinge plate goes on top and the lower one is the larger. They are stamped L (driver side) or R (passenger side) showing the location.
b Remove the fender support bracket that is located near the upper door hinge
c Remove the shock tower spring cover
d Remove the battery tray
e Remove all and any clips, plugs, brackets, etc. you still have on the car. Record there location and purpose for future assembly. Some were the little brake line securing bracket that was next to the master cylinder, the shock tower grommets that the front brake lines pass through and the front brake line clips.
f Remove rubber plugs in trunk area
g Remove the outer lower rear side window weather seals.
h Remove the side scoop trim pieces
i Remove the (2) driver’s kick panel area harness clips
j Remove buck tag
k Removing anything else. There won’t be much if anything left topside
NOTE -There is still the bottom of the car that needs final disassembly including fuel and brake lines, parking brake cable and brackets, and some other stuff. Since I have a rotisserie, I’ll mount the body on that now and then rotate it on its side for easy access. If you don’t, you’ll have to slide under the car using a creeper. Make sure your car is secure on quality jack stands

Day 19
a Put on rotisserie
b Remove the speedo cable ( it was just taped in place from when I disconnected it from the trans and then the instrument cluster)
c Remove the emergency parking brake cable assembly
d Remove the little drain tube that was in the transmission tunnel going into the cab near the base of the firewall (see day 19 pics)
e Remove main brake line running along the trans tunnel. There was (1) screwed clip in the front and (3) snap in clips following it.
f Remove outer axle bumpers
g Remove third member bumper
h Remove axle vent tube. It just tucks into the frame
i Remove fuel line and protector plate. The fuel line is (2) pieces joined by a rubber hose near front torque box and it runs through it
j Remove rear towing bracket from rear frame
k Remove rocker molding clips by drilling out the rivets 1/8”
The car is now totally disassembled and ready to start on the body repaint! Yeah!!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
954 Posts
That's some list. I got hung up on day 19 step A. I couldn't get my car into my microwave or gas grill. That's the only rotisseries I have. It's a good list if you're doing a full frame-off restoration and have all the equipment. For the average DIYer you'd have to pick and choose from it. Check my 66 rebuild in the "Build" forum under "66 bucket coupe".
 
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
Top