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Discussion Starter #1
I've used the "hook" style spring compressor twice in my life and both times I didn't like it (call me a coward, it's fine). So I found an OTC 7054B compressor on the cheap to take out my springs for the third time. The instructions show that the barrel nut should be on the bottom, under the upper control arm, but to me it seems easier to flip that and place the barrel nut facing through the top of the shock tower. Anyone have experience with this compressor?
 

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I have that same spring tool and I guess I did not read the instructions. I use it with the nut on top. It works so much better/safer that the hook style.
 

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Huh...I have the same tool and must not have read the directions either. iiirc, this is pretty much the same tool as in the Shop Manual, and I think I followed those instructions. I don’t think it can be done from below with the spring perches there.
 

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I am so getting something like that before I ever take those springs off again.

So I've never used that particular tool, but since Knapper brought it up here's what the shop manual says to do with the Ford version of it:
67-spring_remover.jpg
 

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I never cared for the hook style either, plates just so much easier to use and a more positive compression design for my money and fingers.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the responses, everyone. I took another look at the instruction sheet and realized they have the spring resting on the LCA. So that's not even close to our cars anyway (looks more like a Fox Body Mustang). And I wasn't even thinking about the spring perch. I don't mind doing basically anything on this car, but the springs always give me anxiety so I wasn't thinking about the problem logically.


Based on the shop manual, does everyone keep the top plate above the shock tower? If so I assume you compress and hold the spring, remove the UCA, and then decompress the spring?
 

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I actually place the top plate on one of the coils below the shock tower cap. I feel pretty secure with this compressor give the sizing of the plate and the shaft being internal, I don’t see how it could accidentally release.
 

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I have the same tool and used it a couple of times. Remove the shocks and insert the tool. Make sure the lower plate is down as far as possible and the upper is up as far as possible. Makes your life easier. I compress the spring and always remove it from the tower. Lay it down slowly and release the tension. I never worked on the UCA while the spring is in the tower. I trust the tool, but why taking any risk, so fast to remove the coil.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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I've got to replace my coil springs this winter. Y'all wouldn't recommend using the spring compressor with the hooks on it?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
It's not that they don't work, I'm just being picky. I've used them on each side twice to remove and install the springs. Every time there was at least one point where the spring popped a little bit adjusting into place. It just unnerves me thinking about getting hit with a very heavy spring that just happened to become dislodged. I admit to being overly cautious since most of the times these springs are removed it's either the double hook or the hook and fork tool being used.
 

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I prefer the double-hook type. Never had any issues with it, though it's getting harder to find as far as borrowed tools from the parts store go. Last time I used a different one that had a fork type end on it. I actually had to get a 4" length of pipe to use as a spacer to get it to work. It's hard to describe. Suffice it to say, I'd rather just have the hooks. It's simple and it works.
 

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Funny you posted about this today as UPS just dropped off that exact tool and I'll be using it later this week! I've never felt 100% safe with any other spring compressors so I'm hoping this helps with peace of mind.
 

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I prefer the double-hook type. Never had any issues with it, though it's getting harder to find as far as borrowed tools from the parts store go. Last time I used a different one that had a fork type end on it. I actually had to get a 4" length of pipe to use as a spacer to get it to work. It's hard to describe. Suffice it to say, I'd rather just have the hooks. It's simple and it works.
It’s not hard to describe to me, because I also used a 4 inch pipe nipple as a spacer.
 

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Don’t bother buying one, O’ Reilly will Loan you one for FREE!:wink:
 

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Discussion Starter #17
My local parts stores only rent out the fork / hook type of compressor. Since I already have the double hook type I didn't bother.


However, it's all moot because the springs are out. Thanks to everyone for the help. That tool was fantastic. Using the hook type I noticed that the springs never sat as well as I'd like. I ended up using the smaller plates and there wasn't a single pop out of the springs, even as they were forcibly turned from the lower perch with a pry bar. I still don't like removing springs, but that's the best experience I've had so far.


One thing I should have done differently: I should have rotated the upper plate up another rung higher even though it was difficult to maneuver. I think that would have made the compression a few turns less since I would have had less uncompressed rungs at the top.
 

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It’s not hard to describe to me, because I also used a 4 inch pipe nipple as a spacer.
Me too. As I recall, the issue can be that on some J hook compressors the threaded shaft is too long and will contact the spring perch before the spring gets compressed.
 
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