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Hello Folks. A friend is in Spain with a 65 coupe 289 car. He had whar he thought were overheating issues so I sent him another rad, rad cap, hoses and a 16lb themostat

His car chucks loses water during drive but never idling in the garage

This was his latest message
"Unfortunately not. Put a 2o lb cap on yesterday went for a 25 min drive and it seemed ok. when I got back checked it with the heat gun and it showed 198 on the rad and 2o5 on the thermostat housing but when it cooled the fins in the rad were showing. Put 1.5 litres water in

There is no moisture in the exhaust or smoke. No oil in the water. no water in the oil. So it's still coming out the overflow on a drive but not when it's running in the garage

I will go out again but drive at low revs everywhere and if it's ok then I can only think something internally is building pressure and only shows at higher revs when the engine is under load"

Any suggestion for him most welcome

This one has us a bit stumped.
 

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Hello Folks. A friend is in Spain with a 65 coupe 289 car. He had whar he thought were overheating issues so I sent him another rad, rad cap, hoses and a 16lb themostat

His car chucks loses water during drive but never idling in the garage

This was his latest message
"Unfortunately not. Put a 2o lb cap on yesterday went for a 25 min drive and it seemed ok. when I got back checked it with the heat gun and it showed 198 on the rad and 2o5 on the thermostat housing but when it cooled the fins in the rad were showing. Put 1.5 litres water in

There is no moisture in the exhaust or smoke. No oil in the water. no water in the oil. So it's still coming out the overflow on a drive but not when it's running in the garage

I will go out again but drive at low revs everywhere and if it's ok then I can only think something internally is building pressure and only shows at higher revs when the engine is under load"

Any suggestion for him most welcome

This one has us a bit stumped.

Hard to say but it sounds like a blockage either in the lower hose or the water pump itself. Change out both? Hot water going in but no way of circulating below - how's temp of the engine when driving? Is only at 205?
 

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is your friend filling the radiator too high ? Just cover the fins, don't fill it all the way to the top. Putting on higher and higher lb. rating radiator caps to fix a problem is a good way to burst the radiator,


Z.

PS check the Ford published shop manual, it states the stock thermostat is not even fully open until the temperature reaches 210 - 212 F. I don't think your issue is strickley overheating
 

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Each car can be a little different, so if the tubes are covered after cool-down, sounds normal to me. I run a stock 13 pound cap and have no issues.
 

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Thanks guys. I thought that the rad may be findings its level but it sometimes needs a heck of alot of water added after a run

It doesnt "overheat" when driving as far as he has told me but after a run it needs a fair amount added.

He hasnt seen smoke or collant in the oil or oil in the coolant. I wonder if the water pump is bad, bad impeller?
Cheers for the replies
 

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Increasing the pressure from the cap will likely aggravate the leak, wherever it is. This could be something as simple as water dripping out a leaky seal in the waterpump shaft, or a radiator hose with a pinhole. Worst case, you might have a leaky head gasket.

Is he running actual antifreeze, or just straight water? If you are really having a tough time with this, put some UV dye in the radiator, and a cheap LED blacklight to find where the water's coming out. If you can't find it anywhere, it's probably blowing it out internally. Hopefully not into the engine oil! If that's happening, it's usually a leak in the intake manifold gaskets, and it'll make the oil into mayonnaise. White/brown gross gunk. If it's not in the oil pan, then it's finding its way into the exhaust somehow - and that's not always noticeable as steam or anything.

Hope it's nothing major!
 

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Thanks for the quick reply’s

It’s my car Peter was asking for

I have changed the radiator, fitted new hoses with a spring in the lower hose, (the old bottom hose was collapsing so I think the water pump is ok), run it with and without the thermostat fitted, backed off the timing, running15 inch 2 speed electric fan, new heater matrix,

The coolant looks like it’s flowing well, looking inside the radiator when the engine is running.

If I have the car ticking over in the garage for an hour the fan cuts in and out as it’s supposed to do. Max temp I’ve seem on the heat gun is 210f

If I go for a run mixture of backroads and small amount of interstate/ dual lane, when I stop after about 20 mins to half an hour and check the heat is still ok and with a 13lb cap the coolant passes the cap and fills a bottle I have on the overflow but when it’s cooled down the coolant does not flow back to the radiator and there is no coolant showing in the top of the radiator, it takes about a quart to 3 pints to fill

I tried a 20 lb cap and the fluid does not pass the cap but still looses the same amount of fluid

Any ideas would be helpful

Thanks
Steve.

Southern Spain
 

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.....,there is no coolant showing in the top of the radiator, it takes about a quart to 3 pints to fill
Is this what it takes to just cover the radiator fins, or all the way to the filler neck?

Have you tried running it again without filling it? If so, is it even lower?
 

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Depending on your radiator, the cores might be so high inside that basic expansion uncovers it. If you're filling all the way to the very top of the neck, it will definitely puke a pint or two, but that doesn't mean it's having trouble. Honestly not sure about cap type to get it to 'suck up' the water from a catch can; I've never run one on my car! Be sure to run actual antifreeze in there, if you live in a place that gets cold. At the least, some kind of anti-corrosion additive with a bit of lubrication for the pump seals would be a good idea. If you *really* want to be careful, use distilled water instead of what comes out of your hose, too. The minerals and salts in tap water will help the aluminum, iron, and brass materials inside your engine exchange electrons, and corrode things. Don't run just straight water if you can help it.


Also, definitely run a stock thermostat. Making it 'too cold' by taking it out or running something like a 165 means that your engine may not get your oil warm enough to boil out contaminants and blow-by/condensation, which will create sludge. Not only will a thermostat ensure that your engine is running warm enough, but they usually improve cooling as well.
 

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Ok. Filled it to just cover the fins ran it for a couple of mins with the cap off and it filled with suds! Like it had washing up liquid in the rad. I took it for a 20 min run and it ran fine and didn’t throw out any coolant

So I guess it’s exhaust gasses getting into the cooling system. Maybe time to upgrade the heads too
 

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Ok. Filled it to just cover the fins ran it for a couple of mins with the cap off and it filled with suds! Like it had washing up liquid in the rad. I took it for a 20 min run and it ran fine and didn’t throw out any coolant

So I guess it’s exhaust gasses getting into the cooling system. Maybe time to upgrade the heads too
Pull the plugs and look for the one(s) that are nice and clean, like they/it's been "washed". That's an indicator of the cylinder that is responsible for your combustion gases. The potential causes are a) blown head gasket, b) cracked cylinder head or engine block. No oil in water or water in oil probably a safe bet that it's one or the other.
 

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How reliable are the coolant combustion test kits? You might try one of those...I think they are pretty cheap.
 
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