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I have a 66b gt conv. with a Spal fan, new radiator, new thermostat and hoses and it still overheats on the interstate. I will be putting on a universal lower radiator hose with molded in spring tomorrow. Can anyone think of a problem area to look at if that fails?
 

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Blown head gasket maybe.
 

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Air lock? Need a flush? Blocked heater core? the list goes on. Start with the easy and inexpensive fixes first and work your way through untill the problem is solved. Sorry I can't be more help.....Billy
 

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Maybe an air bubble in the system that needs to be purged out...

You can use a vacuum pump for that....

Mel
 

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I'd lean towards timing being off, or the radiator is plugged. You can't tell by just looking in the radiator if it is plugged off in the cores. Run a GOOD flush through it, and see if that helps any. You may have to remove the radiator and have it rodded out, or just replace it. Be sure to install a Gano filter in the upper hose if you have to do this.

It could also be a lean burning condition. Pull the plugs after a highway run and read them for color. If they're white, it's time to rejet. Don't let anybody tell you that adjusting the air screws will richen up the mixture. That's only for the idle circuit. Good Luck!
 

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I had the same problem with the electric fan conversion. Checked all of the potential problems listed. No help. Finally, I got a supplemental rad cooler from JCW and installed it in front of my rad. It doesn't overheat any longer. Actually, I now have to change the thermostat from a 160 to a 180 so the engine will heat up.
 
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Well I have a '65 Convertible that we have been fighting an overheating problem for a while. New Radiator, TStat, Heater Core, Water Pump and the hoses are in good shape still. We went from a 2 Core radiator, to a three core, and then stock fan to flex fan. In the process of testing, nothing seemed to fix the problem completely. I sent the heads out to be re-done, and installed new Head Gaskets, making sure the front side stamp faced the front of the block. We have never had any bubbles in the radiator that would suggest a cracked block or bad head gaskets. So we proceeded to flush the cooling system. This did a good job on the new radiator, which had to be 'rodded out'. Things got a little better, but the car was still running hotter than normal. This car was a daily driver for over 20 years, and never had an overheating problem, with a 2 core radiator and the stock fan. I installed a set of gauges, because I was concerned something else was going on. Sure enough, when the car got up to operating temperature, the oil pressure would drop down to 10psi from 40. On further examination, all of the rod bearing were worn and had at least 3/1000's worth of play in them. The amazing thing is, no rattle or clanging could be heard. I'm pretty sure the cam bearings are gone too (hence the problems with the oil pressure). It was then we noticed that at operating temperature, you could just barely start to hear the slack in the rod bearings. Needless to say, I have a rebuilt long block on the way, and enough parts that I'm going to keep the old block, and rebuild it myself.

The moral of this story, I took the advise of people I trusted, who are supposed to know about this stuff. When all along, my gut instinct was telling me I had a problem with the lower end, or a cracked block. There is a light at the end of the tunnel though. I can now torque head bolts in my sleep. It had been a good learning experience.

http://www.rogers-ranch.com/mark/images/stang/stang2.jpg
 
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