Vintage Mustang Forums banner
1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
705 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have mounted the fuse box and routed the harness inside and to the rear of the car, but have not yet cut the firewall access holes.
Before I bring out the drill, does anyone have any advice or lessons learned on installing the harness?

Also - I have been trying to locate my old Mustang Monthly or Mustangs and Fords article on the install - but have not had any luck. Does anyone know of an online reference guide for these how-to articles? I have used the Mustang Club of Austin site in the past, but it is out of date and does not include this article.

Thanks in advance -

SG
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
195 Posts
I can't answer your questions, but have a few of my own. I'm planning on doing the Painless kit to my 65 restomod this coming winter. My biggest questions were what kind of connectors Painless supplies for the headlight and ignition switch and steering column. Do they have repro's of the factory connectors, or do you have to re-use the original ones? I assume from your question that they supply their own style of bulkhead connectors to pass through the firewall. I'm using a JME instrument panel with 6 Autometer gauges, so my underdash wiring is already heavily modified.
How long do you think the whole job is going to take you and what problems do you think you'll run into. And finally, do you think the kit is the best way to go as compared to a generic Painless or American Autowire harness?
Thanks. I be looking forward to what you have to say.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
705 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The kit appears pretty straight forward as there is not a lot of wiring in these cars orginally. I found that you have to re-use (or buy, in my case) the original pigtails for the head and tail lights, as well as for the interior lights. I am in the beginning phase and only starting to learn as I go. I have never wired a car before, but then I have never done half the things accomplished on my car before either.

My original wiring was completely sun-baked and brittle. Most of it separated when I took it out - so there is not anything left of the original.

I will post a review when done highlighting any lessons learned.

SG
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
129 Posts
I need to do the rewiring thing also on a 67 FB.
Is there away to replace the fuze block only with a larger one?
some of my original wires are in good shape.
Did you get an instruction sheet?
Thanks,
Rick
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
60 Posts
The cutting of the holes in the firewall is definately the worst part of the install. This is because, once you cut here, it is really hard to go back. Just take your time. I wish that mine was like the install shown on the link above. I had to cut a big hole and put a plate over it with a grommet that the wires fed thru.

I am still not happy with the painless kit for this part alone. I wish that they could have kept a stock style connector here. Also, you will need a Amp pin extractor to take the white connectors off the harness so you can get them thru the gromet. I do not remember exactly what size, but there are 3 sizes, and it is the middle one. I think the sizes go 048, 063 and 080, but I am not sure right now.

The other thing about this harness is make sure that you have all wires going where you want before any cutting. You may want to opt to solder many of the connections.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
705 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks, and I found the online article in Mustangs and Fords
Thanks - that is the article I was looking for. I was not aware that they posted their articles online - that is a good note for future reference.

SG
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Top