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I`am having a one man body and paint shop do the finish work on bare metal and paint. He finished the fenders , doors, front and rear valences, and stone deflector ten days ago. I had to reject the doors, (dings not taken out)fenders (one not completly painted the other had small ding that he said he would take care of and did`nt. Today I picked up the car minus the above part. Is better than i expected , but not as good as I had hoped. Heres the big problem, he wants me to put it all together then he will buff it out to the shine he says it will have. I don`nt want to put all the crome and emblems on before its buffed. Question is can I buff it myself (no knowlege)? He says their is a clear coat on it, color is black. I need to know what materials and tools I need.
 

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I hate buffing! I'd rather paint 10 cars than buff one. You'll need a buffer $200-300, pads & buffing liquid. There are several different types of pads & compounds, depends on what the buffing guy prefers. Any it being black makes it even harder. Let someone with some experence do it. Burning thru the new paint is NOT a good thing & it can happen in a split second.
 

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It would be much safer having the color sanding and buffing done by a pro. I definately would rather buff the pieces un- assembled without any chrome, or mouldings ( less chance the edge of the buffing pad will " catch" and cause a disaster), but it can be done if extremely careful. After reading your post, I am thankful I found Norm, the guy who is doing the bodywork and paint on my coupe. Check out this guy's work , he is an artist.
http://wildingautomotive.com
good luck.
Dennis
 

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Harbor Freight has the makita 9227c buffer on sale for $159! This is probably the best variable speed buffer buffer made.
If you have a nice small orbit DA sander, you can use some finishing film and have the finish sanded in a couple of hours versus a day or two doing it by hand.
I agree though, it needs to be buffed before the mouldings go on, but after fenders and other sheetmetal are on.
 
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