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hi..guess it's been a while since i have been here..
anyways I have a wquestion for anyone that knows anything about auto painting.
This may sound dumb but I just had my 66 pasinted..
and to be honest it looks like they skimped..a lot..
and I was told that they used3 coats of paint plus an undercoat.
now,,,if paint chips off..
and 3 coats werre put on..
wouldn't the paint chip itself be rather thick?
and as far as minor scratches go..wouldn't an undercoat and 3 coats pretty much cover the scratch[not into body..or even old undercoat...]..
Anyways..if this is thecase and i got shafted on this paint job..
what would be a good copurse of action to take besides going back and raising hell?
1 - 8 of 8 Posts

2,662 Posts
You would still see scratches, they need to be filled. Did they buff your paint afterwords?" Waint is very thin even after 3 coats.

John L. Anschutz
Allen, TX
68 Diamond Blue Coupe - 302
68 Acapulco Blue Coupe - I6 - 200

Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Where did you have it painted? I had a car painted at Earl shibes one time, and the paint chiped everytime the wind blew.
'67 Coupe project car (Did I say project car? I meant pile of rust)

Discussion Starter · #4 ·
had it painted at a local body shop...recommended,,
by a friend..
i dunno..maybe i expected more..
now if a clearcoat was applied....
wouldn;t that make a difference in the thickess of the job?/
how can you tell the difference between a clearcoat over coat and an integrated paint mix?/

Premium Member
4,764 Posts
who did the prep work on the car? If the prep was done correctly scratchs shouldn't show..... but , paint will not cover scratches or fill them in.... paint if done correctly is really not that thick... and shouldn't be. if paint is to thick ( thats why they stripe it after a couple of paint jobs) won't expand and contract with temps. anotherwords if the paint is to thick it becomes brittle and as soon as it gets hot and then cold... hairline cracks will start appearing. Thats kinda why the old "metalflake" paint jobs where shortlived. In my opinion if you have scratches showing ..... the car wasn't prepped correctly.... should have have another coat of primer and wetsanded till the scartches were gone....

99 GTP
97 Yukon
68 GT convert

4,844 Posts
Totally agree with this post. Paint follows the contours of the surface. AT the same time it fills in a scratch line it deposits more paint on the adjacent surface, in equal depth, thus making the scratch re-appear. The only way to take care of this after the paint job is to wet sand the surace until all those scratches dissappear, then use successively finer paper and then polishes to make your sanding scratches dissappear. This is called color sanding. If you have a metallic paint single stage paint, you don't sand it cause it disrupts the metallic appearance. If you have a single stage solid color paint, you can sand it and buff it out. But, that said, I would not wet sand anything that has less than 4 coats of the final finish. Thus, if you have base coat/clear coat, you would need 4 coats of the clear. If you have only 3 coats, you could still sand it if you waited an extra long time for the paint to dry (3 weeks?), then were very careful with all edges, etc.

When I color sanded by stang, then buffed it out, I still saw scratches in a few spots, due to my aggressive sanding with 600 or 800 grit. I went back over those areas with 1000-3000 grit and re-polished and they came out fine.

good luck.

sure it's fun, but it's only a car.

303 Posts
Sounds like the paint job was done at a regular bodyshop that is more concerned with production quantity than quality.

The best ways to do the paint depends on many variables. What kind of paint job do you want when its finished? Are you going for original or just a good quality driver? If you are going to show the car in a Councourse class you may want to stay with an enamel paint for correctness.

I presume that the shop used a urethane paint, and hopefully a urethane primer underneath. The days of old when laquer primer and enamel paint were the best available are long gone. The topcoat paint is only going to be as good as the preparation beneath it. If you had a enamel job underneath, then you are not going to get the longevity and crisp color that the urethane would provide.
The best way to get a good quality paint job is to strip the car to bare metal, acid etch the steel, use a urethane based primer and paint.Paint technology has come a long ways since the late sixties. Most people get shocked when they get a quote for a very good paint job. The paint and primer materials alone for a complete paint job can range between $500 and $700. The price also varies from brand to brand. Typically the cheaper the paint the lesser quality.This does not include any repair work or labor charges either.
As far as the thickness of the paint layers goes, they are very thin. We use PPG paint products here in my shop. On a single stage paint job, the typical thickness of a coat of paint is 1-3 mils. 2-3 coats recommended. Just for reference a sheet of notebook paper is typically 2 mils thick.
On a two stage(basecoat/clearcoat) paint job, the typical color coats are 1-1.5 mils with 2 coats and covered with clear . The coats of clear should be about 2 mils thick and we use 2-3 coats depending on how flat the clear lays. This also varies from brand to brand.
If there is orange peel, the paint has a slightly rough texture then we add another coat and then color sand and polish to remove this. Sanding and polishing is another thing that depends on the customers needs. If the car is to be showed in a Concourse class there needs to be orange peel or the judges will dock you points. On the typical car that we do, the customer wants their paint a slick as glass, so we sand and polish. Hope some of this helps you. There is alot more involved in a good paintjob than this, but this touches on some of the high points.

As far as the Earl Shribe and Macco paint jobs, the biggest problem with them is their prep-work. They do use lesser grade paints, but they typically just scotchbrite the cars and shoot them.

Discussion Starter · #8 ·
1-3 mm...
well to be honest...i don;t think that the paint...clearcoats and all...
is much thicker then a piece of paper..i kid you not..
and i tried a clearcoat test with a safe no lookee place..
funny..i didn't see any whittish clearcoat material..
saw lotsa color..
what do ya think my next step should be? hmmmmm?
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
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