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So I thoroughly washed and dried the wheels and cleaned them as best I can, and now all the paint does is lift up and bubble the old paint. I have only practiced on one wheel because I don't want to [censored] up all four. Any other suggestions?

I feel like trying to find a matching color in Testors model paint and doing it by hand...
 

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Hey Britton, as you know I'm going to be doing the same thing to my Keystones soon. Glad you're going through the trial and error (sounds like mostly error so far) so I won't have too! Let me know what finally works for you.
 

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I will let you know. The paint was fine before hand, but its just irritating because all I wanted to do was touch up the chips around the lug nuts. Now one wheel is worse than when I started. ARGH!! :(
 

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Hello.I always primed the painted areas first even though the manufacturers say that you don't need to because the paint straight onto paint seemed to react funny sometimes and start bubbling and lifting. ::Good luck!
 

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Britton - You're getting a bad reaction between your paints. I'd look into either switching to a different brand or formula new paint, or prime first to add a layer of separation between the paints. Good luck - Dickson
 

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If you are using a laquer over an enamel the solvents in the laquer will lift the enamel. Enamel reducer will not lift the laquer. This may be the logic behind your problem.
 

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Use really fine sand paper or 000 Steel wool to prep, then use Eastwood's self-etching primer, then either charcoal or argent wheel paint from NPD, or Mustangs Unlimited. (pending on year or personal preference)

I have some pics of my Styled Wheels that I painted. Biggest pain was evenly taping off all the cutouts to paint evenly.
Take a look, from my restoration..almost complete
http://homepage.mac.com/idrewgibson/PhotoAlbum45.html
 
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