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Discussion Starter #1
I did a 4r70w swap in my 66 coupe. One of the issues that I'm having is the parking brake is in the way/doesn't fit correctly/rubbing.
Since I moved the trans mount to the rear for the 4r70w, the current configuration doesn't work. I've added a pipe nipple to the adjuster but it's just not enough to put tension on the cable. Also, the main spring return on the passenger side that holds the large arm isn't in the right location, causing the arm to skip into the groove deeper and lose all adjusted tension on the cable. Finally, since I added a larger diameter driveshaft, the parking brake cable is now rubbing on the sides of the driveshaft. I feel like it's only a matter of time before it either snaps or wraps itself up in my driveshaft causing all sorts of danger.

Anyhow, my question is. Can I just cut the cables and leave the spring wrapped lines in position? Or do I have to completely remove the entire cable assembly from the rear of the trans all the way to the drums?
Can I leave the parts inside the drums? Or do I need to diassemble the rear brakes and take off the actuating arm as well?
 

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You have some issues for sure. So you want to eliminate the parting brake? How about some pictures.
 

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I had to do the same thing with a Tremec install. Take the original mount and cut it back and weld it to your new cross member in roughly the same position as stock. I was able to use everything stock and keep my e brake which is important in the socialist state of NY where they make us get inspection.

Notice that I had to arch the lever to go over the exhaust...

760131
 

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Here in Texas a working parking brake is required for the annual inspection. A tunnel mounted handle solves lots of clearance problems. Later Mustangs used steel rods bent into a hook to guide the cables away from the driveshaft and/or exhaust.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
You have some issues for sure. So you want to eliminate the parting brake? How about some pictures.
I want to eliminate it for now.
I need to do some rerouting of shift cables and drivers side exhaust before reinstalling it.

Hence, can I just cut the cable and still drive it.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Here in Texas a working parking brake is required for the annual inspection. A tunnel mounted handle solves lots of clearance problems. Later Mustangs used steel rods bent into a hook to guide the cables away from the driveshaft and/or exhaust.
Tunnel mounted handle won't work with my interior configuration. No inspections in my state on classic cars. I figured I'd install an e stopp later.
760133
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I had to do the same thing with a Tremec install. Take the original mount and cut it back and weld it to your new cross member in roughly the same position as stock. I was able to use everything stock and keep my e brake which is important in the socialist state of NY where they make us get inspection.

Notice that I had to arch the lever to go over the exhaust...

View attachment 760131
This is all well and good. But for the time being, I need to remove it. All of the cables will need replacement and the U shaped adjust needs to be wider to get around my driveshaft.
I don't see a return spring on your setup.
 

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You can cut the cables off and leave everything installed inside the drum. The parts inside the drum for the parking brake won't do anything.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
You can cut the cables off and leave everything installed inside the drum. The parts inside the drum for the parking brake won't do anything.
Thanks AWHTX. That'll get me going where I can refigure all of these parts.
Thanks everyone else for the tips on moving the mounting bracket and rebending the other arm. I'll keep it in mind when putting everything back together.
 

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E STOPP and all your problems are solved. What diameter drive shaft are you using?
Here's mine under construction
 

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Discussion Starter #11
E STOPP and all your problems are solved. What diameter drive shaft are you using?
Here's mine under construction
Yeah, im thinking this is the best direction for me. If I can get the resr drums to perform to my liking. (Thats a whole nother menagerie).

Anyhow, I think its 3.5" if I remember correctly.
760136
 

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Yeah, im thinking this is the best direction for me. If I can get the resr drums to perform to my liking. (Thats a whole nother menagerie).

Anyhow, I think its 3.5" if I remember correctly.
Thanks! I haven't ordered a driveshaft yet , but looking at a 3.5" from Dennys Driveshaft. If you decide to go with the EStopp, I can give you some pointers on the install.
 
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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks! I haven't ordered a driveshaft yet , but looking at a 3.5" from Dennys Driveshaft. If you decide to go with the EStopp, I can give you some pointers on the install.
Will do.
 

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I originally was headed down the e-stopp path as well til I found these, returned all the other stuff and bolted these bad boys on, problem solved :)
How did you control the Wilwood spot brake?
 

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There’s a switch there right below the ignition and a control box mounted in the glove box. I was also able to tie it into my ECU so that if the brake is set the car won’t rev past 1500 RPM so it’s impossible to over power the parking brake. At the end of the day if someone wants the car bad enough they will get it but I’ll slow down the amateurs.
760143
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I originally was headed down the e-stopp path as well til I found these, returned all the other stuff and bolted these bad boys on, problem solved :) View attachment 760139
Tell me more!!! I hate my rear drums. I'm gonna go out on a limb here and say you're running a 9in?
 

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Tell me more!!! I hate my rear drums. I'm gonna go out on a limb here and say you're running a 9in?
I am running a 9 inch. I had an 8 and a disc setup with parking brakes and an e-stopp that I was going to install. My housing was a little tweaked though and my bearing wouldn’t go all the way in on one side so I ditched the 8 for a 9 which allowed me to run this setup which made me happier in the end as the e-stopp is HUGE and still won’t have the leverage that this does regardless. I live in Washington now so the hills are beyond ridiculous and I ditched my parking brake years back, this was the perfect and really slick setup for me, I love it!
 
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Discussion Starter #19
I am running a 9 inch. I had an 8 and a disc setup with parking brakes and an e-stopp that I was going to install. My housing was a little tweaked though and my bearing wouldn’t go all the way in on one side so I ditched the 8 for a 9 which allowed me to run this setup which made me happier in the end as the e-stopp is HUGE and still won’t have the leverage that this does regardless. I live in Washington now so the hills are beyond ridiculous and I ditched my parking brake years back, this was the perfect and really slick setup for me, I love it!
Gonna shoot you a message.
 

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I wish they had that when I built my FFR Cobra. I used a Wilwood mechanical spot caliper for the e brake and it was less than what I expected, I had to build several brackets to hold the cables and other brackets to get it to work.
 
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