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Trying to replace the broken parking brake handle. No luck getting the little "pin" out, at least with my small vise grips. But, the handle-shaft-cable is still installed so I want to remove and be able to work on this at the bench. Question, if detach the cable from equalizer bar will I be able to simply pull the handle-shaft-cable out as one assembly?

Thanks for your help!
 

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Much easier to leave the cable in the car.
Disconnect under the car. Remove the roller at the bottom of the handle assembly.
Lift the pawl catch, the part that makes it go click click click, rotate the handle slightly while holding the pawl unlatched, and push the handle in.
This uncovers the slot where the cable can be removed from the handle assembly.
Undo at the places @Nos681 mentioned.
After removing all the plastic handle remains, you will usually be left with a spring steel band that was originally molded to the handle. Carefully cut it off with a thin cutting disc, then remove the pin .... easy.
 

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I ended up cutting the E-brake handle on my 66 off with an air cutter and a small cutting disc but it was quite a hassle. I used lots of rags to catch sparks from the cutter and got the job done but I probably should have used the methods outlined in this post.
 

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REALLY much easier to just push the pin IN, where it will fall into the hollow interior of the tube and fall out the bottom....eventually. I've used a pair of straight-jaw Vise-Grips, alternately tightening them 1/2 turn of the screw at a time and re-clamping... a small C-Clamp will work, too. For a "tool", use an appropriately sized machine screw with the head ground flat.
 

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A tip to install new handle.

I have a pair of smooth jaw pliers that are similar in design to channel locks.

Works great and doesn’t gouge up the plastic on handle.
 

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REALLY much easier to just push the pin IN, where it will fall into the hollow interior of the tube and fall out the bottom....eventually. I've used a pair of straight-jaw Vise-Grips, alternately tightening them 1/2 turn of the screw at a time and re-clamping... a small C-Clamp will work, too. For a "tool", use an appropriately sized machine screw with the head ground flat.
Yes, I've done dozens of these, drive the pin in. Have a helper hold a large hammer on the door side of the shaft, use a small hammer and drift punch to push the pin into the shaft. Installation of the new handle is the same, except of course you don't need the punch. I have seen many repro handles that fit loose on the shaft. Make a wraparound shim using some soft aluminum from a beer or soda can so the handle fits tightly on the shaft.
 

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Yes, I've done dozens of these, drive the pin in.
Which years does this work on? I have done a 65 and 2 67s but neither of them have access from the back of the rod until you cut the plastic and metal handle sleeve off. Or you mean punch it out after you have done that? Wondering if I am missing a trick or something because cutting up the old handle is annoying.
 
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