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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey Shaun. Was wondering what you advise would be on this. Turned one way it gets into the center section, the other it hits the coilover. Project is at a stand still since I talked to you via email Saturday. Was wondering if I should modify it to clear the coilover or if there is another solution. I'm hesitant to cut into it as I have heard you have a few configurations of these and I don't want to modify it without the go ahead from you. The pics were taken with the rear centered under the car.
797430
797431
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Looks like you need to flip the bolt on bracket 180 degrees. You might also have it set too wide.

View attachment 797470
If I flip it 180, it hits the center section. I tried that first and its worse than the pics I posted. I think I need the style in the pic you posted instead of the one I have. Mine is a completely different design. The links are set to length before it ships out...
 
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If I flip it 180, it hits the center section. I tried that first and its worse than the pics I posted. I think I need the style in the pic you posted instead of the one I have. Mine is a completely different design. The links are set to length before it ships out...
I agree. Different design entirely. Just wasn't sure if you could unbolt it and move it in. You're center pivot is a lot more horizontal than the pic, which would suggest it it might be OK with weight on the axle OR that mount needs to slide in. The end of that mount is a good 6" inside the spring on the "stock" photo, but it's hard to see yours clearly in those photos.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I agree. Different design entirely. Just wasn't sure if you could unbolt it and move it in. You're center pivot is a lot more horizontal than the pic, which would suggest it it might be OK with weight on the axle OR that mount needs to slide in. The end of that mount is a good 6" inside the spring on the "stock" photo, but it's hard to see yours clearly in those photos.
Moving it in or out moves the axle left and right under the car. The axle is centered with the watts in the location in the pic. If you look at the top of the first photo I posted, you'll see that the upper coilover mount wont even go to the mount, so I don't think weight on the car would help..
 

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What is the dimension from the wheel mounting face on the drivers side to the edge of the welded on bracket? Page 6 of the instructions. Wheel mounting face, not the end of the housing.

I can't see it from your pictures but appears you could move that mount further towards the center of the housing, this will equally move the passenger side inboard the same distance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
What is the dimension from the wheel mounting face on the drivers side to the edge of the welded on bracket? Page 6 of the instructions. Wheel mounting face, not the end of the housing.

I did 14.75" from the disc face
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
What is the dimension from the wheel mounting face on the drivers side to the edge of the welded on bracket? Page 6 of the instructions. Wheel mounting face, not the end of the housing.

I can't see it from your pictures but appears you could move that mount further towards the center of the housing, this will equally move the passenger side inboard the same distance.
Half of the driver side watts is already off the axle tube and in the center of the diff. That is where 14.75" located it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Like I mentioned in the email, the frame was narrowed. Upper coil over mounts are about 32.25” apart. Maybe that is making a difference?
 

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Half of the driver side watts is already off the axle tube and in the center of the diff. That is where 14.75" located it.
The issue is compounded by you moving the trailing arms inboard for the DSE tubs. I'd suggest moving the drivers side mount in further which in turn will bring the passenger side in more and away from the shock.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
The issue is compounded by you moving the trailing arms inboard for the DSE tubs. I'd suggest moving the drivers side mount in further which in turn will bring the passenger side in more and away from the shock.
Dang. That one is already welded on. I will call you tomorrow. Should the center of the watts be straight up and down exactly or just closer? Wonder if the explorer brakes caused it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Accidental post. See above.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Location of the watts center with it level.
797507
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Looks like you are going to need to move the drivers side mount inboard.
Is the angle the center link is at going to effect the handling/function in a negative way? I’m asking because the bracket is already welded on. Not only would it be a huge pain to cut it off but Im pretty sure that I would need a new bracket if I did. Not sure I could save it. Modifying the bolt on side seems much easier but I don’t want to do that if it compromises the system in any way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Everything thing I have read says it will only effect the rears ability to travel up and down. So I guess if I can achieve full suspension travel where it’s at it would be okay? Any suspension gurus on here?
 

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Location of the watts center with it level.
View attachment 797507
Your propeller is clocked incorrectly. is this picture you have it clocked at the 1o'clock & 7 o'clock position. You need to rotate it to the 11 o'clock & 5 o'clock position and it will shorten the length of your arms allowing you to move your axle brackets inward a couple inches.. It SHOULD say in your instructions not to install it the way shown in this picture.
 

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Have you measured the axle flange to frame measurements to make sure the housing in centered in the car ? Another thing i see is you could lower center pivot to the lowest hole, and lower passenger side bracket and raise the driver side link up in the slot, as long as the links are matching angles it will work correctly. doing so will give you a little more clearance for the passenger side coilover
 

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Your propeller is clocked incorrectly. is this picture you have it clocked at the 1o'clock & 7 o'clock position. You need to rotate it to the 11 o'clock & 5 o'clock position and it will shorten the length of your arms allowing you to move your axle brackets inward a couple inches.. It SHOULD say in your instructions not to install it the way shown in this picture.
My instructions from SOT don’t mention clocking the Watts link propeller, and the arms come a preset length for installation. I understand the OP‘s install is “custom” due to wheel tubs though.
Rusty
 
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