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Discussion Starter #1
I've seen a lot posts about different sets of Tri-Y's, all of which either went on smoothly, didn't work at all or had major issues. I'm after a set of Patriot Ceramic Coated Tri-Y's from CJ Pony Parts: Patriot Exhaust H8426-1 Mustang Tri-Y Ceramic Coated 65-70

My car is a '66 Coupe with a '71 302 3-Speed Manual Trans w/Z-bar and power steering. I know I will have to use the PS lowering bracket, which is not an issue. The fine print says "Sometimes some small modifications are necessary to the equalizer bar and clutch rods for clearance on manual transmission vehicles." The question is, since you can't really modify the Z-bar, what does that mean?

Has anyone installed these with the same setup as I have with any success? You would figure it'd be a one size fits all, but I know headers can be a pain sometimes. I'm trying to go the least restrictive route with headers without a ton of modifications or banging or manipulating. Thoughts?

Tim
 

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It means you have to take a big fu*kin' hammer and dent your new headers so they will fit. Some of patriot headers will fit and some won't because the jigs they use to weld them up are not all the same like they're supposed to be.

Z
 

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They forgot to mention the modification for the pitman arm, and this still wasn't enough to clear properly. Plus the warped flange, and the collector jammed against the 5-speed. At least they're are up front about the Z bar and the clutch rod's, that didn't work either. It's a crap shoot. Good luck if you decide to buy them.



 

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I agree with Marty. The header on the left side hits my pitman arm on full lock. The z bar didn't interfere on mine, but only barely cleared. The driver side collector pointed down rather than straight back like the passenger side so the patriot specific x pipe didn't fit well. The ceramic coating has held up decently for 8 years old and it does run better with them. That said, it worked but I think I would go a different route in the future.

Rich
 

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I use to work at the World Headquarters of Hertz for 18 years. We had a privately owned 66 350H and later on Hertz bought their own 66 350H for the lobby. Both cars had been converted to 4 speed. On both cars, the clutch linkage and Pittman arm hit the try y headers. I think some guys here had good luck with with cheap eBay AS try y's actually fitting pretty well. I would suggest looking at some shortly headers.
 

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I've seen numerous manual transmission '66 GT350's with their original Tri-y headers. None of them hit ANYTHING ! Funny how the crude technology of the 1960's could produce parts that fit correctly, but in 2016 .......

Z
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I've seen numerous manual transmission '66 GT350's with their original Tri-y headers. None of them hit ANYTHING ! Funny how the crude technology of the 1960's could produce parts that fit correctly, but in 2016 .......

Z
That's what I don't understand... I thought Patriot Exhaust were supposed to be on the more consistent end for fitment with the exception of Doug's being better, but far more pricey.

I'd love to go to a clutch cable, but no interested in switching to a T-5. If anything I'd rather have a 4-Speed Toploader, which still can't be made to work with a clutch cable.

Are my assumptions correct about the clutch cable?

Tim
 

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That's what I've heard, clutch cables can't be easily routed around any headers. But I've not personally tried to install a clutch cable set-up, so I don't have any direct experiences to relate.

Z
 

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Why would you want a cable for a 4 speed? I made my own linkage with rod ends. It works great. The old Z bar works pretty well with a little attention to detail, like anything else.

 

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Discussion Starter #10
I have no issues with the Z-bar and prefer to keep it, but don't want the hassle of it hitting headers.

What advantages did you gain by modifying yours?

Tim
 

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I have ceramic coated Patriot tri-y's and my pitman arm put a minor dent in my driver side header.

It was a pain to get the clutch linkage to work properly but using a 66 adjustable lower and the 65 adjustable upper allowed me to get it adjusted fine.
 

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I wouldn't be considering modifying the stock clutch linkage (except the aforementioned adjustable upper and lower rods) in order to get a cheaply made set of headers to fit. That just seems a*ss backwards to me. Why not pay more for correctly fitting headers and keep the stock set-up ? ?

Z
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I would suggest looking at some shortly headers.
What I am gaining with shorties, other than ease of fitment? Everything I read about shorties said I wouldn't get much out of them from HP/TRQ perspective. I wanted to go with Tri-Y's since I know there would be at least a little bit of gain and they would be ok to use with my bigger HP engine in the next year or so.

Tim
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I wouldn't be considering modifying the stock clutch linkage (except the aforementioned adjustable upper and lower rods) in order to get a cheaply made set of headers to fit. That just seems a*ss backwards to me. Why not pay more for correctly fitting headers and keep the stock set-up ? ?

Z
The ones I linked are normally $530.00, on sale for $350.00. I've seen them as high as $900.00 from other vendors. That's a lot of a set of headers, IMHO, but for a reason I'm sure.

Trying to figure out a balance of $$$, fit and the least intrusive as possible.

Tim
 

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I'd love to go to a clutch cable, but no interested in switching to a T-5. If anything I'd rather have a 4-Speed Toploader, which still can't be made to work with a clutch cable.

Are my assumptions correct about the clutch cable?

Tim
Nothing is impossible, some things are expensive.
 

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The ones I linked are normally $530.00, on sale for $350.00. I've seen them as high as $900.00 from other vendors. That's a lot of a set of headers, IMHO, but for a reason I'm sure.

Trying to figure out a balance of $$$, fit and the least intrusive as possible.

Tim
Mines a 67 but my Hooker Comp's fit with tons of room for everything including my clutch linkage. If I had to bash a set of headers to fit I would send them back.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Mines a 67 but my Hooker Comp's fit with tons of room for everything including my clutch linkage. If I had to bash a set of headers to fit I would send them back.
Are there major differences between the '66 and '67? I take it yours are full-length?

Tim
 

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It means you have to take a big fu*kin' hammer and dent your new headers so they will fit. Some of patriot headers will fit and some won't because the jigs they use to weld them up are not all the same like they're supposed to be.

Z
Z a few years ago (2008) you wrote:
using the Tri-y's (common Patriot brand of manufacture) you might have a put a "ding" in them here or there to get some needed clearance, but generally no major surgery is required for fitting them. An aggravation for sure, but not a deal killer if that's the look or performance you're wanting.

Z. Ray
http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/3782313-post2.html

Just curious why the difference.

Paul
 
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