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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay. So, the FB will be gone very soon as the buyer will be here to pick it up. I already closed the deal on BroadwayBlue's 68 cali special. Well, I'm looking at fall project's for it as it sits in the garage. It still has the original all manual drum setup installed. I was thinking of going with www.discbrakeswap.com and getting the "swap 3" (not on the site yet, just started it) where I get everything needed to convert to front discs using late 60's mustang/ford correct hardware. Should I keep the manual setup or go with power?

Now, I had power brakes on my 66 and I wasn't really impressed. I found that the manual setup gave much more feedback to my foot. Anyone else running manual front discs?

I also may convert to power steering down the road, so I have to plan this brake stuff ahead. I want to keep it original looking as possible.

pics of the 68: http://www.smugmug.com/gallery/3386839/1/189224101#P-1-15
 

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If one can lock up the brakes with a manual set-up, as you can, why would you need power brakes? I would vote for dual chamber master cylinder however.

Z. Ray
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
it's a 68, so it already has a dual mc, which is great. haha. I was just wondering how the performance was with manual disc brakes. I want to preserve the original condition of this car as much as possible. And it would save me the headache of modifying the lines. :) Any info?
 

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wally05 said:
Now, I had power brakes on my 66 and I wasn't really impressed. I found that the manual setup gave much more feedback to my foot. Anyone else running manual front discs?
Were the Power brakes on your 66 original, or aftermarket? How much "play" did you have in the pedal? Lastly, other than foot-feedback, were there other things you didn't like about the power brakes? I'm just curious.
Thanks.
 

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I did a Granada setup with the manual 74 Maverick disc/drum, and mine doesn't require that much pedal pressure to stop. It's not like stopping in my Nissan Maxima, but I don't see the need for a brake booster (especially since there isn't alot of clearance room there for a booster on my 66). JMO
 

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I'd also like to hear some feedback. I'm going 4 wheel disc (68 in the front, 95 in the rear) with a 95 m/c, and I'm used to new cars.. Bad idea for me to try 4 wheel manual discs? Do 4 wheel discs require a booster (In their design). Sure would save a lot of hassle with the booster/spacer/pedal though. Course I'd need to procure a pushrod somewhere.
 

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I just got my manual disc brake put on my 67 coupe and i got it from discbrakeswap.com. i also wanted to know if i should put a pb on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Haha, everyone is wondering. My 66's setup was aftermarket with all new lines and such. But, I found I liked the manual brakes better. I think I'm going front non-power discs.
 

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Is this a real California special?
If so, leave it alone.
If it is a clone, go with power brakes.
 

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My two cents. The choices for power brakes are much better for 67-70 Mustang than for later cars that require hard to find power pedals, and earlier ones that don't have enough space between the firewall and shock tower to fit a decent sized booster/dual reservoir MC without some significanyt mods. An OEM style system is available for 67-70. It will give a more "modern feel", easier on the leg, but not better brakes. This OEM type power brake kit is a good compliments to the SWAP.3 kit. Plumbing the MC for power brakes is not that big a deal using premade straight lenghts of tube. The ones that have fittings and flares in place.
 

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68, he (we) would still have to source a power pedal though, and you can buy a booster for like, $120 online at places, but I get the feeling it wouldn't be that easy and you would need some sort of spacer or something.
 

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I want to keep it original looking as possible.
Here's a thought....

Get the car.

Drive the car.

Enjoy the car.

Fix it when it breaks.

This forum is a great place to learn how to work on your Mustang and TRUST ME, it will eventually suffer some malady, but until then... perform some preventative maintenance on it... oil change, fan belt, etc., etc. Get used to the car. Look the car over with a fine tooth comb. Don't worry, she'll let you know soon enough what she needs. It appears from the linked pictures that someone took pretty good care of this car.

There's an old adage that should not be forgotten...

If it ain't broke, don't fix it!

We're constantly reading posts of different members fixing things on their cars.... that's usually because they're broke. These posters would much rather have nothing broke on their car...

4wheel manual drum brakes will stop that car just as fast as if there were 4wheel disc brakes installed. Unless automotive theory has changed and nobody told me, drum brakes have more stopping power than discs. They just can't do it over and over again due to brake fade.

If you're going to be driving the he!! out of this car and it's a true GT/CS, you've bought the wrong car.... again.

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
"bought the wrong car... again"

What the heck does that mean? It's a car, it's meant to be driven, not put in some museum. I drive in the city and such as that, I get A LOT of brake fade with drums. That is the reason I'd like to upgrade to front discs. The drums and everything have already been replaced. The brakes are not original. It can be swapped back if needed.

Apparently... only run of mill coupes are allowed to be on the road... nothing against coupe owners. I love coupes. :) I'm just saying that the fact that it is a GT/CS shouldn't keep me from driving it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I probably won't do the swap for a couple months, I was just looking for feedback right now. There seems to be a lot of people asking about it. The guy at www.discbrakeswap.com seems to be very competent about the swap.
 

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It's a car, it's meant to be driven, not put in some museum.
Driven, yes. But IMO, a GT/CS is a "collector car". Although I've modified every single Mustang I've ever owned (Coupe and FB), I wouldn't alter this one from factory stock condition. It's my opinion that certain cars just shouldn't be altered.

the fact that it is a GT/CS shouldn't keep me from driving it.
Drive it all you want, but I wouldn't drive it through a puddle, in the rain, in the snow, in the ice, to a mall parking lot, etc., etc.
It's a special edition limited production #'s CA dealer modified Coupe that's value will decline with every fleck of Indiana rust and parking lot door ding.

It's your car, do what you want with it....

I'm just saying that I wouldn't.

Dave
 

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Dave, I am shocked....

Did you just offer respect to a coupe?!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I wouldn't drive it in the rain, snow, or whatever, but it's going to be driven. One day, Fastbacks and coupes will be impossible to find in "original" condition... what will we do then? It's a nice car, but whether it's a shelby, GT/CS, or whatever, they were meant to be driven. All our cars will one day not exist no matter what kind of time you spend trying to keep it in one piece or not.

I really don't see the problem modifying safety equipment such as brakes and suspension. Same goes for 3-point seat belts, etc. It's "value" is what the next buyer thinks it's worth. It's all relative. My car and I plan on holding onto it, I plan on making it fun to drive. The moment I drive that thing into a puddle and get those front drums drenched, lockup is a bigger possibility.

Anyways, I am modifying it, that is not the discussion. The discussion is whether or not I go power or manual brakes. I'd like to keep the original mc and such, so I think I'll keep them manual. Does pedal resistance increase with front discs?
 

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Here we go again....

Another forum member who got tired of reading the "Coupe hater" thread and thus failed to read where I repeatedly posted that I was only joking. Of course I don't "hate" Coupes.


They're great parts cars.... ;)

Dave
 
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