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This winter, I've decided the suspension and brakes are the focus. The front end upper and lower control arms are a little sad. I'm going to replace my front end and rear end with V8 parts, mainly so I can go with disc brakes up front. So, I figured while I was up there, I might as well rebuild it with some performance gains in mind.

I've been looking and reading about TCP and Global West. Global West makes mention of the negative camber gains from their control arms. Sounds great, I've read the articles, know the theory, all seems to make sense. With teh GW system, is the negative camber really noticable? I don't want to end up with one of those cheap ricer drop looks (you know, tires really bowed out).

TCP doesn't mention any of the camber issues on their stuff. They just mention deflection. Both upper control arm systems (GW and TCP) look the same in the pictures. Is there a difference? Does TCP address the negative camber issue?

Basically, I want better handling then stock, but do now desire coil over or M2 front end and since the front end needs some work (the squeaks and bumps are driving me nuts) I figured I might as well do it right the first time. Thanks.

Slade
 

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I don't have an answer for you about the controll arms. however, if you replace the controll arms with v8 arms, you will have to get new v8 spindles as well, which are not sold reproduction. keep in mind that the 6 cyl does not weigh nearly as much as a v8, so if you get the heavier spring rate drop springs, its going to ride even more stiff than a v8 car with thoes springs. I would recomend you getting a pair of normal v8 springs and cutting them down to whatever ride height you desire. that way you will have an increased spring rate over stock, but it will not be insanily high.

If you go with the 5 lug patern on the front, you are going to have to get new wheels, aswell. I think that you can use your old hub on the new spindles, but there would not really be any point in upgrading the spindles and controll arms than. another note, you can get 4 lug disk brake setups, npd has them. something to think about.

- Jason
 

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Negative camber arms just keep the camber negative you've set in or actually gain negative camber during
cornering. Without anyother changes, they won't drop your nose. Factory arms gain positive camber when corning.
The benefit is the car's nose will feel like it's cornering flatter (similiar to current cars). " I don't want to
end up with one of those cheap ricer drop looks (you know, tires really bowed out)" - then don't set your
alignment that way.

Bob.
 

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My '65 has all the front end mods done to it that your talking about and I LOVE TO DRIVE IT. It handles beautifully and corners like it's on a rail.

I have the Global West upper control arms on mine as seen here http://moneymanagment.info/tubularcontrolarms.htm

They work great and as you can see they don't change the way the car sits at all.

Doc the moneymanager
http://jmichael.info/shelbyindrag.jpg
 

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As Dinosawnj mentioned, you're looking at two different types of camber...

Static camber is how the wheels are sitting when the car at rest. This is adjustable thru alignment. You can get the tires at or near 0 camber - I run mine about -1* See Picture Most of the import guys are lowering the car too much, to the point where camber is maxed out, and they still have -5* plus.

Negative Camber Gain is where the aftermarket arms "earn their keep". By going slightly shorter in length, and lowering th upper inner pivot point, the arms actually help tilt the top of the spindle in when the spring compresses (like the outside tire in a corner). Stock geometry doesn't do this, to promote "safe" understeer.

Both the TCP & GW arms will have negative camber gain when installed per the directions. Both also have the upper balljoint angle changed to eliminate bind.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Jason,

That's why I'm doing V-8 all the way around...it's cheaper to upgrade to disc brakes with a V-8 then 6 suspension, not to mention the heavy stature of the parts. The disc brake conversion for the 6s is about $400 more then the V-8 spindles. I can upgrade my front end to stock V-8 for less then $400, so might as well do it.

I plan to go with stock V-8 springs and see what goes from there. If too stiff, I'll go with I6 and maybe cut 1/2 - 1 loop off. I've already got a V-8 front end and rear end lined up along with rims. Its just if I rebuild the front end, I might as well set myself for future upgrades to wheels, brakes, etc (no...the I6 is staying).

cloney and dino...thanks, you guys answered my questions perfectly even though I didn't ask it right. I didn't understand the difference between negative camber negative camber gain. makes perfect sense now and seems exactly what I want. Thanks.

Slade
 

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I don't have an answer for you about the controll arms. however, if you replace the controll arms with v8 arms, you will have to get new v8 spindles as well,

- Jason
On 64-66 mustangs the control arms/ball joints are the same for 6cyl and V8.. So you could keep the 6cyl brakes if you wanted too.. But since you are going disk anyway thats not really an issue.
 

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We opted for the TCP setup on my son's '66. It is a shimless setup as well. We wanted it to be mostly streetably so did not go with the coil over unit, too stiff-a track ride too be sure! The 620lb spring setup was too stiff the street, 520lb works more to our liking. A 485lb set might be the #1 setup but did not feel it was worth redoing again. We relocated the upper A-Arms per shebly specs-this may not be necessary with the GW unit? If you do decide to relocate the upper A's do not use the template in Tony Branda's catalog...IT IS OFF BY 1/8" and you won't want to have to oblong a hole in this application to make it fit. Also went with a 1 1/4" front sway bar and a 7/8" rear sb. Ours is a V8 application and it reacts rather postively.

Wish I could help you with the GW side of your ? but never had any hands on with their front end pieces.

Good Luck,

Pat
 
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