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The easiest way I found to wire the Pertronix module is to disconnect 16a (the pink resistor wire) from 16 at the bullet connector near the ignition switch and running a new non resistor wire plugged into 16, run through the firewall to the coil becoming the new "Wire To Ignition Switch" in the diagram. This bypasses the resistor wire and gives you the same functionality as original. Wired as in the diagram with a 1.5 ohm coil and you should be good.
744544
744545
 

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I told the garage that the old points are in glove box but he said all of his mechanics are young and do not know anything about points and they are charging 90.00 an hour. Wtf.

Shops don't want to deal with 50 year old cars and they don't have the expertise and often don't even have the tools anymore. Few shops have an oscilloscope anymore to do cylinder drop tests etc. The guys that can work on the old cars are for the most part long out of the business with broken bodies from working on cars... The last points cars rolled off the line around 46 years ago.

$70 for an HEI distributor and ditch the Pertronix. I have used them in the past and in the end was not happy with them due to failures etc. I skip past them and go with a better distributor that doesn't have goofy requirements that electronic ignitions shouldn't have. You gain a rock solid pickup coil and module with a few other benefits like better spark plug terminals etc. And pickup coils and modules are available at every parts store in the country as they are jelly bean parts. No it won't look stock but it will run better and be reliable.
 

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The hardest and least understood part of this is connecting it to or near the ignition switch. Sure, it's easy to add a wire to the coil terminal and change the module in the distributor. But connecting the wire at the ignition switch is much more work.
 

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The easiest way I found to wire the Pertronix module is to disconnect 16a (the pink resistor wire) from 16 at the bullet connector near the ignition switch and running a new non resistor wire plugged into 16, run through the firewall to the coil becoming the new "Wire To Ignition Switch" in the diagram. This bypasses the resistor wire and gives you the same functionality as original. Wired as in the diagram with a 1.5 ohm coil and you should be good.
View attachment 744544 View attachment 744545
I essentially did the same but I left my pink resistor wire intact and bypassed it using Scotch locks and ran a new wire past the resistor wire. I'm running the Ignitor 3 and Flamethrower 3 coil since 2011 and never has a problem with either. That was almost as simple.
 

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The hardest and least understood part of this is connecting it to or near the ignition switch. Sure, it's easy to add a wire to the coil terminal and change the module in the distributor. But connecting the wire at the ignition switch is much more work.
Personally, I don't consider it any more work to pull apart a connector, plug a new wire in and run it 5 feet than wiring in a relay to give the module 12v. It's a clean and much more reliable solution than using a relay. tom991 gives another variation, but I really don't like Scotch locks, but that's just me. I realize "work" is a relative term, but I'm past the point of instant gratification and don't mind if it takes a little more effort.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
well i decided the hell with pertronix i ordered one that is made by standard 148.00 i pick it up at 1:00 today because I have to have it by monday. I hope the garage will let me put it in so I don't have to pay them 95.00 an hour. anybody use standard products?
 

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I never messed with the original Ford 1968 Ford V8 wiring, put in a Pertronix I ignitor and the flamethrower coil that goes with it. It’s been working well for a year, no issues. I get 12v in startup and then it backs it off to 6 or 8v when she’s running.

I did briefly go back to points with my new distributor because they were already installed. Either the ignitor coil roasted points after a few weeks it or I left the key on and that roasted the points. In any case, bad experiences mixing of and new systems you’ve got to go one way or the other. I was curious to see if proper points idled better than P1. They did not indeed it was the new distributor with a gear that wasn’t worn. But Pertronix I system is proven and reliable on stock Ford ignition wiring.
 

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well i decided the hell with pertronix i ordered one that is made by standard 148.00 i pick it up at 1:00 today because I have to have it by monday. I hope the garage will let me put it in so I don't have to pay them 95.00 an hour. anybody use standard products?

If you have an american car you have standard products in your car. They are the OE for lots of parts. That said there is a good chance it is the same part as pertronix. Unlikely that two companies are making a very similar looking part.

One issue with the pertronix is that they do not like to have the ignition on and the engine not running.
 

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well i decided the hell with pertronix i ordered one that is made by standard 148.00 i pick it up at 1:00 today because I have to have it by monday. I hope the garage will let me put it in so I don't have to pay them 95.00 an hour. anybody use standard products?
Sounds like LX-809 ?
Looks kinda like another hall cell setup just like Pertronix. Good luck.
The easy way out is not the best way sometimes. I'd put the points back in it and call it a day. Difficult to improve on the original setup but look totally factory stock.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
If you have an american car you have standard products in your car. They are the OE for lots of parts. That said there is a good chance it is the same part as pertronix. Unlikely that two companies are making a very similar looking part.

One issue with the pertronix is that they do not like to have the ignition on and the engine not running.
i will let you know if it looks the same as pertronix when i p/u in a little bit.
 

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i will let you know if it looks the same as pertronix when i p/u in a little bit.
Thanks. Very good info to know. I'm hoping it's a different part.

When I think points I remember the days of setting points in Tecumseh mower engines. That was the most tedious and annoying, frustrating, infuriating mechanical repair ever inflicted on a repair shop or mankind for that matter... So you never ever changed the points in them you just junked the engine. I had a party the day they went out of business as that horrendous design would never be inflicted on mankind ever again...
 

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According to a rating on Amazon; 'worked great for me till I forgot and left the key on while I was working on it. If you leave it on too long the unit will be destroyed. the directions do warn you...'
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Yes it is a lx809s igniter, looked at instructions and said to run with a 12v points style coil and to keep pink resistor wire hooked up. I have a 12v 1.5 ohm coil that says external resistor required will this work?
 

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Yes it is a lx809s igniter, looked at instructions and said to run with a 12v points style coil and to keep pink resistor wire hooked up. I have a 12v 1.5 ohm coil that says external resistor required will this work?
Yes, the Pink wire is an external resistor.
 

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Don’t know but it seems like they are indicating a factory style coil with pink resistance wire.
 

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It's for these reasons ( young mechanics) that us old dodgers work on our own junk.
 

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What is considered factory style coil?
This kind of coil: STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS FD471T. The positive terminal on the coil MUST be connected to the resistor wire coming from the ignition switch. And the positive (red) wire of the ignition module MUST be connected to the same positive (+) terminal on the coil. And the wiring of your car needs to function as intended. There will be 12 volts at the coil and module only for the few seconds when the key is cranking the starter. This is handled by the starter relay. When the key is in run position power goes through the resistor wire and you will get about 8 volts at the coil terminal. If the coil terminal has 12 volts all the time things will fry. Apparently the ignition module can fry even with 8 volts and the engine not running.
 

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What is considered factory style coil?
A stock replacement type not a performance coil which pull more amps which would put more load on the ignition module. I guess the only way to have a high output coil with one of those is to also use an ignition box that can run a performance coil. Then you are using the ign module as a trigger which doesn't put much load on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
This kind of coil: STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS FD471T. The positive terminal on the coil MUST be connected to the resistor wire coming from the ignition switch. And the positive (red) wire of the ignition module MUST be connected to the same positive (+) terminal on the coil. And the wiring of your car needs to function as intended. There will be 12 volts at the coil and module only for the few seconds when the key is cranking the starter. This is handled by the starter relay. When the key is in run position power goes through the resistor wire and you will get about 8 volts at the coil terminal. If the coil terminal has 12 volts all the time things will fry. Apparently the ignition module can fry even with 8 volts and the engine not running.
-wire from igniter to -side of coil also?
 
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