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Discussion Starter #1
It seems like there are a thousand different things that can go wrong with these. I have a problem that nobody else seems to have. I installed the pert. II and flamethrower II coil. Easy, quick, done in 10 Minutes. Stock distributor. Hard starting, died at idle. Thought about it for a bit, decided to check timing, It had retarted to about 4 deg. Set timing back to 9 deg. Still very hard to start, I have to give it alot of gas, about 5 pedal pumps, and stay on the pedal when cranking. After it fires up, it idles fine with the timing correct. How do I cure the hard starting? With the points, it fires right up. Do I need to reduce/increase the module gap? It is set at .30 with the included feeler guage. Do I need to return it and go back to points? Should I check the spark on each plug?

Thanks
Ted
 

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Do you have a full 12v running to the coil and ignitor?
 

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That's an odd one. I've heard of electronic ignitions dying out unexpectedly, but not being hard to start.

I had no issues when I switched over to the Pertronix, but I did have to reset my base timing.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I was in a hurry last night, so I didn't get a chance to test the voltage, I will this evening.

Thanks
Ted
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I thought the pink wire had to do with the pertronix I. I thought that the II only hooked up + and - to the coil, with no other mods?
 

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That could be your problem then. The 1st series ignitor stuff didn't require 12v, but the series 2 and 3 do. I wired in a 12v relay for mine, as I didn't want to go hacking into my ignition wiring, but a lot of guys just wire it in and bypass the infamous "pink" resistor wire. Otherwise, you're probably only getting ~7v at the coil.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
How would I go about wiring a relay? Directly from the battery?
 

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You don't need a relay.

Unplug the pink resistor wire from the wire that goes to the ignition switch and simply run a new wire from there to the coil.
 

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I've been thinking of going electronic and like the "stock look" idea of the Petronix. So what would be the best option for a 260v8 1, 2 or 3. I'm not trying to high jack Ted1s thread...sorry Ted1 but as were on the subject of Petronix someone may be able to toss in their 2 cents.

thanks

GB
 

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I've been thinking of going electronic and like the "stock look" idea of the Petronix. So what would be the best option for a 260v8 1, 2 or 3. I'm not trying to high jack Ted1s thread...sorry Ted1 but as were on the subject of Petronix someone may be able to toss in their 2 cents.

thanks

GB
I personaly think the II would be your best choice , The III has a rev limiter built into it and I wonder if it's someting you even want. Of course you will pay for the rev limiter .
 

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I've been thinking of going electronic and like the "stock look" idea of the Petronix. So what would be the best option for a 260v8 1, 2 or 3. I'm not trying to high jack Ted1s thread...sorry Ted1 but as were on the subject of Petronix someone may be able to toss in their 2 cents.

thanks

GB
Hi Mate,
I have run the Pert 1 for a number of years, with nary a problem. It gets it's power from a direct sw'd 12V source.
 

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I've got the Pertronix I in and it works just fine for me! :) Not sure how it's wired though, since the PO took it upon himself to hide all of the wires to the point where you can't figure out which goes where...
 

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I have had two of the Petronix II models go bad. One was hard starting and the other would cut off when I let go of the gas. I called the Petronix # on their website and they replaced both. That was about 7 years or so ago. The II that is on my 5.0 HO in the '66 is still working great on 12volts. IIRC the problem with the Petronix I model is if you leave the key on for an extended time ( like over night accidentally) it will fry the unit.
 

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Thanks for all your input. Its an interesting point about "fritzing" the 1 unit if you leave the key turned on. If I'm not in the car The key is with me or its "hide" inside the house. I personally know of a couple of Stangs being flogged (stolen) from their owners garages over the last couple of years.

GB
 

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EVERYBODY needs a rev limiter IMO. Otherwise just make one mistake and you get a very expensive kaboom. Or have the carb linkage spring break.

It has already saved the $10K motor in my vert. I shoved it into neutral by accident.

I've seen a guy blow up a $25K all aluminum 427 because he did not have a $125 rev limiter.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
There was a fairly simple solution to my pertronix problem. I was getting 11.8V at the +coil, I did put the rubber washer under the magnets and rotor, the rotor would not catch, so I filed it down. Still hard starting, but magnets were level with pertron. module.

Checked the coil wire, and it seems that the plug wire was not seating fully inside the coil. Switched coils, and car runs fine. However, I do have a constant 12V on the + and - sides of the coil. Is that normal?

I have not adjusted the carb with a vac gauge before today, what a difference! Idles much better, and it seems like I even cool down more, temp gauge is significantly lower now, don't know why I didn't do this sooner.

Thanks for the help everybody, with the pertronix set up well, she purrs like a kitten, well, maybe a lion.

Thanks for the help
Ted
 
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