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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Woodchuck's directions are correct, but the starter solenoid may be defective. Set your meter to read voltage, remove all wires from solenoid "I", connect one voltmeter lead to chassis and the other to "I". If you get any voltage, the solenoid is defective.
After resolving this, then double check your connections: relay black to chassis, relay purple to brown wire and solenoid "I", Igniter red (in distributor) to orange on relay, and relay red to battery +.
As Woodchuck pointed out, you are supposed to have reduced voltage at the coil after starting, but his directions should give you 12v at the Pertronix1 inside the distributor, and your tach should still work.
If the solenoid isn't the problem, then here is a long shot: the Pertronix1 needs the distributor ground wire to be connected- one end to the body of the distributor on the left and the other end to the plate where the arrow is. Disregard where the screwdriver is pointing. Floating grounds can cause havoc, so it's worth checking.
View attachment 810154
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 · (Edited)
Zero voltage in either run or off. I ended up taping the brown wire connector to the harness and ran the purple wire to the "I" terminal. tach works, actually seems to run better. .2 ohms resistance between Pertronix base and ground.
It still has is miss, but I have another lead on that. In the dark, I noticed shorts from both the + and - coil primary terminals straight across to the secondary terminal tower. The plastic housing, not the rubber boot. . This did it at idle and increased spark as I increased RPM. Wires are new, replaced trying to solve same miss issue last fall. Plugs are 10 years old but only really have 1000 miles on them. Cap and rotor also new. Any thoughts?
 

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Whoa! You're saying that the only thing you currently have connected to the solenoid "I" terminal is the relay PURPLE wire...and the engine runs?

If you are having arcing between the coil high tension tower and the primary circuit terminals you have a bad coil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Whoa! You're saying that the only thing you currently have connected to the solenoid "I" terminal is the relay PURPLE wire...and the engine runs?

If you are having arcing between the coil high tension tower and the primary circuit terminals you have a bad coil.
Yup-- If I wire it like suggested in post 6 it will continue to run in the key off position. If I remove the brown wire terminal from "I" post leaving only the purple it functions normal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
And that would indicate you have a bad starter solenoid. Not to mention the coil.
Measures 0 volts from "I" to ground in both Run and off.
I might have a spare one in my Box 'O extra parts. easy enough to swap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
You've still got something screwy going on- the circuitry should be wired like this:
View attachment 810243
Hmm not being in front of it my only thing that sticks out at me is that I have my red pertronix wire going to the + coil post which is also where my Orange relay wire is located. Should I remove them off the + coil post and just attach them together (red pertronix wire and orange pertonix relay wire)? I will confirm when I get home.
 

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I connected mine exactly like the diagram. My '65 didn't come with a tach, it's aftermarket, so I already had a dedicated wire from the coil to the tach.

I didn't touch anything on the solenoid nor any wiring outside the engine bay.
 

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Hmm not being in front of it my only thing that sticks out at me is that I have my red pertronix wire going to the + coil post which is also where my Orange relay wire is located. Should I remove them off the + coil post and just attach them together (red pertronix wire and orange pertonix relay wire)? I will confirm when I get home.
Well that explains the odd operation- wire it per the diagram if you want it to operate correctly. But you still have a bad coil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Well that explains the odd operation- wire it per the diagram if you want it to operate correctly. But you still have a bad coil.
Thank you again-- Coil will arrive tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Well that explains the odd operation- wired it per the diagram if you want it to operate correctly. But you still have a bad coil.
So a new phenomena, Cranks over but will not fire until key is released. You can crank it all day but it will not fire until you release the key. Seems like no spark until you release key. Very rich at start up.
This is how it is wired now
Red pertronix distrib wire to orange relay wire.
Red relay wire to + side of solenoid/Battery connection.
Purple wire to "I".
Brown wire to "I".
Black relay wire to engine ground.
Red/Green tach/ Resistor wire to + Coil.
Black Pertronix distib wire to - coil.

Engine seems rich but idles lower than I have ever got it to. 600 rpm, though a bit rough. Did not drive. Still has shorting coil I think. Not dark enough.
 

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I'd like to suggest a test. Some models of Igniters don't like the power left on with the engine off- it overheats and gets destroyed. It can be take a short test though. Disconnect the purple wire from Solenoid "I" and connect it to +12v. Then quickly start the engine and see if it starts normally. Does the engine shut off normally? After the engine is off, quickly disconnect the purple wire from 12v.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
On second thought, change the coil before you do anything else- random high energy discharges just aren't good. Eliminate that problem and then see what happens.
Red pertronix distrib wire to orange relay wire.
Red relay wire to + side of solenoid/Battery connection.
Purple wire to "I".
Brown wire to "I".
Black relay wire to engine ground.
Red/Green tach/ Resistor wire to + Coil.
Black Pertronix distib wire to - coil.

Coil is installed, Checked all plug/rotar/coil terminals to ensure they were seated. All OK. Start up on the release of key only. same issues as last night.
Removed purple wire from "I" terminal and connected it directly to 12 V. Brown still on "I" . Same start on key release only.

Tried it back at "I: terminal with Brown terminal not attached to "I". Crank no start.
 

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Sounds like an intermittent starter solenoid problem- I would replace it.
While you're at it, disconnect the black and purple wires from the Pertronix relay, take an ohm reading in one direction across the black and purple wires (this should be the relay coil) and then reverse the meter leads and take the ohm reading in the opposite direction. Sometimes relays have diodes across the coils to suppress the back EMF when the coil's magnetic field collapses. I would like to be sure what we are dealing with here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Sounds like an intermittent starter solenoid problem- I would replace it.
While you're at it, disconnect the black and purple wires from the Pertronix relay, take an ohm reading in one direction across the black and purple wires (this should be the relay coil) and then reverse the meter leads and take the ohm reading in the opposite direction. Sometimes relays have diodes across the coils to suppress the back EMF when the coil's magnetic field collapses. I would like to be sure what we are dealing with here.
Just making sure; is this the large forward-most terminal of the starter solenoid where the battery cable attaches?
Yes it is.
90 ohms both directions. Relay came with a diode, but I didn't see where it was needed for ford applications.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Yes it is.
90 ohms both directions. Relay came with a diode, but I didn't see where it was needed for ford applications.
Replaced Starter solenoid, same start on Key release.

Only way it runs normal is if wired like
1. Large RED wire to your 12vDC source. The "common" side of the Starter Solenoid is a good place, with the relay mounted below it.
2. BLACK wire to ground.... the mounting screw for your relay will suffice.
3. Small PURPLE wire to Starter Solenoid "I" post. Use a small ring terminal under the "BROWN" bypass wire connection.
4. ORANGE wire to Pertronix Ignitor RED wire.
AND the brown wire is removed from the I terminal.
 

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If the brown wire is removed from the "I" terminal and the purple is still connected to the "I" terminal, as soon as the key is released from "start", the starter solenoid should open, removing power from the purple wire, which turns off the Pertronix relay and power to the Ignitor is cut. So the engine should stop as soon as the key comes off start.
What you describe makes no sense unless it is not wired as the drawing shows. With the brown wire disconnected, you should not have power on the purple wire unless the key is in start.
I considered that the Pertronix relay may be a latching type, but even that doesn't make sense, since latchers require a reverse pulse to change state, or more wires.
I would take these steps:
1. Make sure no extraneous wires are connected- only those shown in the diagram
2. Take the wire from the distributor to the coil off. Set your meter to DC volts and connect one side to starter solenoid "I" and the other lead to chassis. With the key off there must to zero voltage. With the key on there must be 12v.
3. With everything off, disconnect Pertronix relay wires red and orange. Take an ohm reading, on the orange and red, which should be infinite- no continuity. Hook up the purple wire to battery + and black to chassis. Take an ohm reading on the orange and red and it should be close to zero.
 
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