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Discussion Starter #1
I pulled my infamous 331 today and T-5. After separating the trans from the bell housing and removing the pressure plate the pilot bushing falls to the ground. It was doing it's job up until today and no gouging of the input shaft or the pilot bearing could be seen, just a shinny ridge on the input shaft were the outer part of the pilot bearing was just touching a little bit. Many an incompetent machinist has messed with the end of that crankshaft so I guess I shouldn't be surprised. I was going to replace the China MDL bearing with the Ford Performance one anyway so I guess I'm glad I don't have to fight removing it. The Ford bearing "on the right" looks like it will have more contact area with the crank when installed than the China bearing "on the left" because it is not tapered. I guess my question is blue or red Loctite?

744768
 

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No loctite necessary.

Tap it into the end of the crankshaft and be done with it. Grease it also, but no so much it will sling out onto the flywheel.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

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I mean this in the nicest possible way my friend.... you suck! I bet I spent at least an hour fighting to remove the last bearing I dealt with!! I ultimately ended up actually fabbing a plate to span the crank, welded a threaded rod to the bearing, then used a nut on the back side of the bracket to pull it out. The cut off bearing is on my 'shelf of shame' to remind me that simple things can go wrong. As far as the Loctite- not sure it'll do any good other than fight you next time, right?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
No loctite necessary.

Tap it into the end of the crankshaft and be done with it. Grease it also, but no so much it will sling out onto the flywheel.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
The part of the crank the pilot bearing fits into has been machined more than once. The bearing came out with only the suction of the grease when I removed the trans.
As far as the Loctite- not sure it'll do any good other than fight you next time, right?
There is no next time with this crank!
Never used a bearing...always a bushing. One less thing to break.
I see your point. Is there a non commie bushing you would recommend?
 

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Discussion Starter #8

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my question would be why is the end of the bearing tapered like that . Bad machine work ? maybe thats why you have thrust bearing issues (because the pilot bearing wasn't in all the way)?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
my question would be why is the end of the bearing tapered like that . Bad machine work ? maybe thats why you have thrust bearing issues (because the pilot bearing wasn't in all the way)?
It’s a China bearing, It shows no signs of being related to my TB issues. No damage to the bearing, input shaft, or T-5.
It is possible it wasn’t, in all the way. But I doubt it.
 

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I would have dropped that evil crank off at the scrap metal place after the last go round.....now you have thrust bearing issues again...just mail that thing back to the manufacturer and tell them to put it where the sun don't shine.
 

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67 coupe, 69 Sportsroof, 86 hatchback
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I don't like how bearings can sometimes eat the end of input shafts and have gone back to using bushings. Plus I find bushings ever so much easier to remove than bearings.
 
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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
NONE in this case ,BUT green sleeve retainer would be the proper answer not thread locker.
Loctite 609 retaining compound.
Thanks for the heads up on the sleeve retainer, I will be sure to use it. I ordered the bronze bushing from Summit but apparently my finger slipped and I ordered the Edelbrock Pro-Flow 4 fuel injection as well. Oops!

The Permatex 64000 High temp sleeve retainer seems to be the one to get. $5.30 with Amazon prime to my door tomorrow. How can they do that?
 

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I replaced hundreds of clutches at work and never had a needle bearing, pilot bearing fail but I have seen lots of brass bushing ones all wobbled out. The older Fords use the brass bushings and the newer ones the bearings.. I'm sticking with the bearings. Just buy a good brand name one.

This is a Snap-On pilot bearing puller. 90% of the time it pulls them right out of there. Sometimes with the brass bushings rather than pulling them out it just gouges grooves through the brass.

744922
 

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You’d be amazed what packing it with wet toilet paper and then using a 3/8 extension and tapping it lightly will do. Using hydraulics it’ll just pop that needle bearing right out of the crank. I will be placing the extension in the center hole the inner diameter hole on the pilot bearing and pushing against the packed wet toilet paper that’s in the crank. I’ve done it before and it works great. Most time consuming is cutting up and wedding small pieces of toilet paper and packing it in there
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Yea know the title of the tread was "Pilot Bearing Fell Out Of End Of Crank!" Not interested in how to remove it as it fell out. I got some stuff today to hold the next one in.

744935
 
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A while back I mentioned the solution too my clutch always dragging for many years was to find a non magnetic bushing. A lot of top names don't know what there selling. There not pure bronze. Some have a lot of Iron and even limestone mix in. The bushing will micro weld and increase the wear on the input tip heating it up and have slight blue color. Summit agree to let me order and return the ones I found bad. Out of 6 only one was totally non magnetic. No more drag or wear. Happy camper now.

One brand name didn't know the difference between a bushing and a steel bearing.
 
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