Pitman arm and gearbox issue

2108 Views 40 Replies 12 Participants Last post by CHOCK, 6 mo ago

ma67cpe

Discussion Starter · 6 mo ago

3

I have a 1967 mustang v8 manual steering car. My dad bought it new in 1966 so it is an early model. I needed to replace my steering components since they were pretty worn out.

I bought a Lares 18702 which has a 1" sector shaft which is what my car had from the factory as my tag was smb-a. I bought a 1 inch sector shaft pitman arm using part number c7za-3590-a which according to stangersite that should be my part number.

Now my issue is that I cannot get the pitman arm to go over the sector shaft by more than maybe 20%. Did I miss something in my parts ordering? Has anyone else ran into something like this?

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CHOCK

· #21 · 6 mo ago

ma67cpe said:
Yes. It is torqued down but the nut is not up to the sector

AGAIN--Send pictures of the nut and END of sector. Did you torque to 125 pounds?

Reactions: 1

rpm

· #22 · 6 mo ago

I had to remove the paint on the splines from my Chocko box to get the pitman arm fully seated.

Reactions: 2

ma67cpe

Discussion Starter · #23 · 6 mo ago

CHOCK said:
AGAIN--Send pictures of the nut and END of sector. Did you torque to 125 pounds?

Is this what you are asking for?

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22GT

· #24 · 6 mo ago

ma67cpe said:
Yes. It is torqued down but the nut is not up to the sector

If by that you mean you have applied specified torque but the nut is NOT up against the shoulder on the spline, that's good. It would not be possible to tighten properly if the nut hit the shoulder.

Reactions: 1

CHOCK

· #25 · 6 mo ago

It is simple a non matter in a way. That pitman will not slide all the way up on the TAPERED splines. The Nut is nearly (60 thousands lets say) from being correct to the sector. Is your torque 100 pounds plus? I doubt it by looking.
What is your torque setting-??
Another way here--Torque to 125 pounds, remove the nut washer, try to remove the pitman. Tell us how long, by what method did you filially remove it. Will be interesting

ma67cpe

Discussion Starter · #26 · 6 mo ago

22GT said:
If by that you mean you have applied specified torque but the nut is NOT up against the shoulder on the spline, that's good. It would not be possible to tighten properly if the nut hit the shoulder.

No the nut will not even fully thread on to the bottom threaded section so nowhere near the shoulder

CHOCK

· #27 · 6 mo ago

Post the numbers off that Pitman--It does not look right?

Retract--You are doing Manual.

Reactions: 1

Russstang

· #28 · 6 mo ago

I thought the nut looked thick…..I need to double check mine.

Reactions: 1

CHOCK

· #29 · 6 mo ago

Russstang said:
I thought the nut looked thick…..I need to double check mine.

WOW--Are you observant, The new nuts on these boxes are thicker than the stock. Explains the non flush situation.

Reactions: 1

CHOCK

· #30 · 6 mo ago

Last post here.
After torquing to 125. Try to remove the pitman. Then post the efforts needed.

Reactions: 1

Sons67

· #31 · 6 mo ago

What did you torque that nut with, a pipe wrench ? its kind of chewed up for a new nut. Also, I hope you are countering the torque with a block against the pitman arm and not running the box against the internal stops. You can damage the box internally that way

Reactions: 3

CHOCK

· #32 · 6 mo ago

ma67cpe said:
No the nut will not even fully thread on to the bottom threaded section so nowhere near the shoulder

What is the torque setting?

Reactions: 1

kechke

· #33 · 6 mo ago

All nuts are not created equal.
I have a “Lares” pinion nut that is extremely tight when put onto an original sector shaft, so much as to be unusable. A nut with a reduced pitch diameter will also affect the torque reading.
See if you can try an original Ford nut.

Reactions: 1

rusty1161

· #34 · 6 mo ago

Makes me wonder if the Lares steering box shaft or the nut they provide are metric and not compatible with the other.

Reactions: 2

Woodchuck

· #35 · 6 mo ago

rusty1161 said:
Makes me wonder if the Lares steering box shaft or the nut they provide are metric and not compatible with the other.

You'd be surprised what any layer of paint on either the sector or splined area of the Pitman arm will do....

Reactions: 4

Westmus

· #36 · 6 mo ago

Woodchuck said:
You'd be surprised what any layer of paint on either the sector or splined area of the Pitman arm will do....

.... and some lube on the thread and face of the nut. The nut will push a lot harder with the same torque applied when lubed vs. dry.

Reactions: 1

dennis111

· #37 · 6 mo ago

Westmus said:
.... and some lube on the thread and face of the nut. The nut will push a lot harder with the same torque applied when lubed vs. dry.

My mind went straight in the gutter . . . .

Reactions: 1

CHOCK

· #38 · 6 mo ago

rusty1161 said:
Makes me wonder if the Lares steering box shaft or the nut they provide are metric and not compatible with the other.

The threads are standard, the nut is thicker.

Reactions: 1

Westmus

· #39 · 6 mo ago

dennis111 said:
My mind went straight in the gutter . . . .

A lot of wrenching amateurs have no idea on how big a difference on the clamping force, the conditions of surfaces actually make when tighten a bolt or nut.

Reactions: 1

rusty1161

· #40 · 6 mo ago

CHOCK said:
The threads are standard, the nut is thicker.

My thought is since it’s an aftermarket box, there could be bad machining of the threads on the shaft or a mis-boxed nut that could cause issue with tightening.

Reactions: 1

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