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Discussion Starter #1
OK, after working "too" many days in a row. I got to drive the mustang Friday. It has either been to long between drives, or i'm completely braindead, but going down the hill I live on, it seemed like the brake petal is going farther down before I feel it stopping (Is that confusing enough?). Seems like before Friday I didn't have to push the petal as hard (anyone know what i'm typing about?).

Also any clues how to loosen the brake fluid cap? I have the mason jar lookin' cap, and it is on TIGHT!!!!

Dan
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Have you recently installed a new master cylinder or wheel cylinders/ calipers where you may have gotten any air in the lines or maybe not bench bled the master cylinder if new?

65 Mustang Convertible 289 C-code
Ivy Green with Ivy Gold & White Deluxe Interior
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"it seemed like the brake petal is going farther down before I feel it stopping (Is that confusing enough?). Seems like before Friday I didn't have to push the petal as hard "

You've described 2 differnt types of problmes - going down too far, and hard to push - is it both? They both have differnt sources of problems.

Let me know and I'll try to help.

Tom
 

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Hi, try to adjust the brakes this should help the pedal travel John
 
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Discussion Starter #6
Tom, OPPS! The petal is going down farther before the car starts to brake. About a 1/3 of the way down (I guess?)...

Dan
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Discussion Starter #7
are they spongy? Like stepping on a rubber ball? If so, air is likely the cause. If the pedal is farther down, you may be low on fluid...
To get the cap off, run some hot water, soak a heavy rag, and use that to heat the cap. Once it is heated, it should expand a little and hopefully be easier to remove.

1966 C-Code Convertible, 59 Edsel Villager
Charlotte, NC
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"Tom, OPPS! The petal is going down farther before the car starts to brake. About a 1/3 of the way down (I guess?)..."

I am making the assumption you have 4 wheel drum brakes.

There are 3 things that can cause this problem.

1)
If air is in the brake lines, it will cause the air to compress and thus increase pedal travel. If you have not had the brakes apart and it's been ok and you haven't run low on fluid to alow air in the lines, then it's not this. This is not a problem that develops over time, this occurs right after something has been replaced or repaired that allows fluid to come out such as brake line, wheel cylinder or master cylinder replacement or rebuild. This problem is noticed also by there not being a firm stop of the pedal. In other words it feels "mushy".

2)
If the pedal starts high, and with continous and equal pressure keeps dropping, this is a sign of leakage past the piston in the master cylinder. This can get dangerous and lead to total brake failure. The master cylinder must be repaired or replaced.

3)
If the pedal goes down 1/3 as you say, and then becomes firm and doesn't creep downward, this may be a sign that the brake shoes need adjustment. They should stay adjusted if the self adjusters are working properly. The adjusters work by making repeated forward and then revers movement of the car, and applying the brake to stop. If this doesn't cure the problem, remove the rubber plug on the side of the drum and adjust the star wheel upwards as you face the wheel from under the car until you begin to hear and notice a SLIGHT drag on the tire as you rotate it with the car jacked up.

Good luck.

Tom
 
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