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Discussion Starter #1
manual steering. everything up front is new, everything, including a rebuilt box from Choko. I just installed a new centerlink today, along with an opentracker roller idler arm. the new link took some of the play out but not all. i'd guess there is at a minimum 1" on either side of center. any ideas?
 

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Have someone rock the steering wheel back and forth 1/4 turn while you inspect everything for movement.
 

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As said above, you need to figure out where the play is coming from. If you can get the car up on ramps and get under it while someone moves the wheel back and forth, it should become pretty obvious. Start at the box, and work your way out.
 

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That little bit can be in the tire sidewalls. Bounce it back and forth within that range and look closely at where the wheel meets the tire to see. Jack both wheels off the ground and grab a tire and twist it back and forth, that will show the ratio in opposite, a little tire movement will really spin the steering wheel a bunch.
 

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just because something was rebuilt it dont mean it was done right.
put a new SB on from Lares or Flaming River
 

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just because something was rebuilt it dont mean it was done right.
put a new SB on from Lares or Flaming River
I'd take a box built by Dan at Chockostang over Flaming River anyday.
 

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rdnck1
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Besides what others have stated to troubleshoot, what caused you to replace everything to begin with. What is everything parts wise besides what you listed? There are a lot of places you can have play.... steering shaft, u-joints, rag joint, column bearing to name a few besides what is under the car. Is the play in the front suspension and steering components or is it in the steering wheel? Jack it up and have someone move the steering and see where it's coming from. Good luck, Jim
 

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Another thing to check is the to make sure the steering shaft index mark is at 12 o'clock when the wheels are straight ahead. If you are not there will be more play in the sector shaft within the box.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
going to try to get out and play with it today.

one of you guys asked why I replaced everything. well, it's a 50 year old car and everything was original and worn out. I redid the entire front suspension and all steering components. actually everything under the car was rebuilt or replaced.

i'll let you guys know what I find
 

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rdnck1
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going to try to get out and play with it today.

one of you guys asked why I replaced everything. well, it's a 50 year old car and everything was original and worn out. I redid the entire front suspension and all steering components. actually everything under the car was rebuilt or replaced.

i'll let you guys know what I find

I'm the one that asked why. If everything is replaced suspension wise due to it being 50 years old, there is a good chance there are old parts in the actual steering that need replacing and are showing up now due to everything else being tight. Check items I mentioned before and as ratlee53 pointed out, that you have the steering shaft index mark at 12 o'clock. It might be something that you replaced but if not then check your steering parts. Good luck, Jim
 

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To the OP- you may try giving Dan a call.
No disrespect to anyone who rebuilds boxes but they can't ALL be rebuilt.
We blueprinted steering boxes at Global back in the day. A blueprinted box
is exactly that.... a finished item that is far, far more precise than the factory
ever envisioned. Out of 20 boxes we received, less than half could be easily
blueprinted. Of those 10 outright core failures, maybe 1 or 2 could be "saved"
by using spare parts we had on hand..... so your end rate of success out of
20 cores was about 12 steering boxes successfully blueprinted.
Some 20 years later, these boxes are pretty scarce, as are any spare parts.
Even rebuilding them at this point in time is a tough job, let alone trying to
get increased accuracy out of them.

ex-Global West GM
1991-1995
 

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just because something was rebuilt it dont mean it was done right.
put a new SB on from Lares or Flaming River
I've yet to see someone go record saying their Chockostang restored box was anything less than perfection. You're post sounds like you know something differently. Well ? ? ?

Chock's work ethic and dedication is well known, so I'm just going with that.

Z
 

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Discussion Starter #14
ok, it appears to be in the box. had my wife slowly move the wheel while I held the pitman arm. no movement at the arm until it goes past the dead zone. I made a small video so you can see the play. guess i'll call chock.

 

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Is it actual free play or is it amount of play before the wheels turn? Part of the problem with the drag link system is having the pitman arm at 90* to the drag link. What this means for a given amount of degree rotation of the steering wheel is going to be the minimum amount it’s going to move the drag link. As you turn the steering wheel the speed at which the drag link moves is going to increase. Think of it as a piston at TDC. As you twist the crank back and forth, the piston hardly moves. Move the piston half way down, for the same amount of twisting on the crank, the piston is going to move a whole lot more. With the wheels straight ahead, it’s like the piston at TDC.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Is it actual free play or is it amount of play before the wheels turn?
before the wheels turn. it doesn't make the car undriveable, but it's a little annoying. maybe i'm just expecting it to be like my truck (rack) , wheels move with the slightest input from the wheel.
 

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before the wheels turn. it doesn't make the car undriveable, but it's a little annoying. maybe i'm just expecting it to be like my truck (rack) , wheels move with the slightest input from the wheel.
Mine is similar too. It has that little bit of a dead spot. It doesn’t feel like there’s nothing connected, just not responsive. Outside of that it’s great. I had OT’s roller idler arm too. Otherwise it feels direct and responsive.

Yeah I know what you mean. I have a 14 F150 with the 5.0. At 5k rpm, it’s just so smooth and make my GT40P feel like a Soviet era farm tractor motor.
 

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Maybe the box needs adjusting, research it first because there have been incidents with bad/worn boxes failing after adjustments. It is not uncommon to need an adjustment with a new or rebuilt steering box. See link, http://www.stangerssite.com/adjustment.html
NO-NO-NO.
That box is set EXACTLY at 10" pounds drag at center. Do not screw with the box!!

Maybe the problem--Someone, good chance a corner tire store, has already "Adjusted it"
Sure hope not for poster.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
NO-NO-NO.
That box is set EXACTLY at 10" pounds drag at center. Do not screw with the box!!

Maybe the problem--Someone, good chance a corner tire store, has already "Adjusted it"
Sure hope not for poster.
nope, nobody but me has ever turned a wrench on my car
 
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