[phoenixco99]

I have a California 1967 Mustang Coupe 289 2V, and I'm trying to figure out how to remove the air pump and associated hoses, but can't find how to do that. There are so many hoses running around the engine bay that are in my way, covering the valve covers, etc., I thought if I removed the emissions stuff it would clean up the engine area, and I can put a nicer air cleaner over my carb, and the car might even run better.

I found what I think are all the bolts I need (below), can someone confirm the bolts and where they go?

I also know a hose runs from the oil cap on the valve cover and from the carb to the air cleaner, which I'll need to cap on the carb and get a different oil cap for the valve cover.

TFS-51400265 (qty. 2): https://www.cjponyparts.com/trick-flow-cylinder-head-emission-thermactor-plug-5-0l-5-8l/p/HW1173/
C6AZ-6052-A (qty. 8): Cylinder Head Plug - Thermactor - EACH - NOS ~ 1967 -1970 Mercury Cougar / 1967 -1970 Ford Mustang

Are there any other caps, bolts, etc. I would need to remove everything? Am I missing anything?

 

[Woodchuck]

The hoses from the valve cover to air cleaner and valve cover to carb are NOT part of the air pump system but part of the PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) system and should be left in place. Most aftermarket air cleaners have a provision to add a nipple to the base for the fresh air hose to the oil cap. Depending on which TYPE of Thermactor system was installed, the "internal" or "external", you'll have either one port on the end of each cylinder head to plug with the 5/8-11 threaded plugs or one adjacent to each spark plug (8 total) where the "spider" type Thermactor manifolds were attached.

 

[phoenixco99]

The hoses from the valve cover to air cleaner and valve cover to carb are NOT part of the air pump system but part of the PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) system and should be left in place. Most aftermarket air cleaners have a provision to add a nipple to the base for the fresh air hose to the oil cap. Depending on which TYPE of Thermactor system was installed, the "internal" or "external", you'll have either one port on the end of each cylinder head to plug with the 5/8-11 threaded plugs or one adjacent to each spark plug (8 total) where the "spider" type Thermactor manifolds were attached.

ah. So my system uses just the two bolts in the heads on cylinder 1 & 8. So I can’t get the oil cap without the hose attaching to it?

 

[Woodchuck]

ah. So my system uses just the two bolts in the heads on cylinder 1 & 8. So I can’t get the oil cap without the hose attaching to it?

You CAN get the "open" style oil filler cap if you'd like. The fresh air being vented into the crankcase won't be as clean but it'll still work fine.

 

[phoenixco99]

You CAN get the "open" style oil filler cap if you'd like. The fresh air being vented into the crankcase won't be as clean but it'll still work fine.

I was wanting to get these:

https://www.cjponyparts.com/ford-performance-valve-cover-stamped-steel-chrome-with-ford-mustang-logo-pair-289-302-351w/p/VC112/

and

https://www.cjponyparts.com/ford-performance-oil-cap-push-in-chrome-with-ford-mustang-logo/p/OC33/

But I realized the oil cap needed to have a port for a hose for the air system like below that I don't want:

https://www.cjponyparts.com/cj-classics-oil-cap-push-in-chrome-with-tube/p/OC26/

Trying to reduce all the hoses running around. But you're saying even if I remove the air pump, I still need the hose coming out of the oil cap on the valve cover?

 

[Woodchuck]

I was wanting to get these:

https://www.cjponyparts.com/ford-performance-valve-cover-stamped-steel-chrome-with-ford-mustang-logo-pair-289-302-351w/p/VC112/

and

https://www.cjponyparts.com/ford-performance-oil-cap-push-in-chrome-with-ford-mustang-logo/p/OC33/

But I realized the oil cap needed to have a port for a hose for the air system like below that I don't want:

https://www.cjponyparts.com/cj-classics-oil-cap-push-in-chrome-with-tube/p/OC26/

Trying to reduce all the hoses running around. But you're saying even if I remove the air pump, I still need the hose coming out of the oil cap on the valve cover?

You don't NEED it. The fresh air venting into the crankcase will be cleaner WITH it but it's not a necessity.

 

[phoenixco99]

Ah. I think I misunderstood the direction the air was travelling. I thought the house was carrying inert gas from the valve cover to the air cleaner, not the other way around. I know the hose from the PCV valve to the carb has to be there, so the other hose to the oil cap is a good thing that adds clean air, not pushing inert gas back. Gotcha. That clears that up. Thanks so much!

 

[phoenixco99]

So, basically, is that it? Pull out the air pump, remove all the hoses that stem from the air pump, put those two bolts in place, and then I can switch to the open air cleaner like this:

https://www.cjponyparts.com/air-cleaner-concours-hi-po-blue-base-mustang-1965-1973/p/AC3/

and connect that base with 3/4 or 5/8 tube from the oil cap on the valve cover?

 

[az4stringer]

When I replaced the heads on my San Jose 67 289 back in the 80s, the new stock heads did not have the ports for the smog pump system. I just removed the smog pump and hoses, went with an open breather cap on the driver's side valve cover for the PCV system. If you remove the smog pump and hoses, you'll need to plug the holes in the heads. I drove around for about a week in high school with the holes open, sounded bad ass to me and my classic car buds..lol I think there are covers available now to plug the holes.

DO NOT throw away the smog pump and hoses. They are actually worth quite a bit to those looking for original parts. I kept all the smog equipment.

 

[phoenixco99]

Figured it out. Took everything out and put freeze plugs in cylinders 1 and 8. Works great!