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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,

I've posted before with this problem, but I still haven't cured it. If you even have a remote guess, I'll take any input you have.

When my '65 Mustang w/ 200 I6 gets hot, it stalls when I brake hard, or go over a large bump when just putting along at idle (usually backing out of my driveway onto the street), or when I shift from park to reverse or reverse to drive.

I can kill it every time when the air condtioner is running, I turn the wheels all the way to one side or the other (it has power steering), and then shift from park to reverse or drive. When the car is hot, this is guaranteed to kill the engine as soon as I shift.

When I brake hard, it doesn't die until just after the car comes to a complete stop.

It only does it when it's hot, not warm, but hot. I live in Phoenix, and when the temp outside is 85 degrees or so, and I drive the car about 15 minutes, it starts giving me the problem. When it dies, it fires back up after it turns over 5 or 6 times. Usually the hotter the car gets, the worse my problem is. The engine itself is not overheating or even really getting into the Hot range on the guage.

I've tried:

2 different Holley rebuilt carbs,
put a spacer under the carb,
bent the fuel lines away from the block,
new fuel filter,
played with timing
played with the air/fuel mixture,
played with idle speed,
drove it with the gas cap off,
installed a new Accel coil.

Nothing works. Even bumping up the idle screw so it idles at a rediculiously high rpm doesn't fix it.

The car doesn't have points, I installed a Pertronix ignitor.

Please help me if you can, I'm about to FLIP OUT!!!!

Thanks a lot for your time,
John Thomas

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=525545&a=7533002&p=26667243.jpg
65 coupe pics: http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=525545&a=3848066
66 conv pics: http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=525545&a=7533002
 
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For what it's worth . . .

My 289 did the same thing for quite awhile. I then discovered two problems - I had a vacuum line that was incorrectly installed to the side of my 4100 carb, and my distributor was turned 180 degrees.

I bought the car from a guy who had had it 2 1/2 years and was never able to figure it out - and neither did I or any of my mechanics for a long time. The vacuum problem was finally solved by a local mechanic. I found that the distributor was turned after buying a shop manual and seeing that the no. 1 wire was on the wrong side of the cap. Gulp. After those problems were remedied, my car stopped stalling.

Doug


'66 signal flare red coupe with styled steel wheels
289 4bbl. w/ power steering, brakes, and A/C
White interior with a bench seat, deluxe seatbelt option, and an extra seatbelt in the back for my three kids . . .
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the info, but no such luck for me. I went outside with my Chilton's manual in hopes you had shed the light on my problem. Nope. My vacuum lines (both of them) are hooked up right (one from the carb to the vacuum advance, and one from the manifold to the modulator valve on the transmission). And the distributor is on the right way with the wires going to the correct plugs.

Thanks again, any one else have any ideas?
John Thomas


65 coupe pics: http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=525545&a=3848066
66 convertible pics: http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=525545&a=7533002
 

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Do you have vacuum gage to see how much Vacuum you are pulling?
you may have a vacuum leak some place, Which is causing your stalling, I picked one up for $20 bucks, It was well worth it.

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1603896&a=12227378&p=44495546&Sequence=1&res=high.jpg
73 351C C6 3.25 T-lock
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This was happening to me, it was also, if the engine was warm...it wouldn't start. Turns out the choke on my carb was always closed and my engine was flooding. Dunno if it is the same as yours.

1968 Coupe, 6cyl Std, Bench Seat. Driven through 10 years of College.
 

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Some whacky ideas.

bad distributor ground?

bad distributor advance?

air cleaner always sucking hot air off the manifold?

ping-pong ball (or some other junk) in the gas tank?

what you really need to do is narrow down if your loosing spark, getting too much or too little fuel or bad timing when it stalls. watch it die with a timing light attached, does the light go out before it stalls, is it timing to the very end?. also turn the car off and count how many times you pump the carb before you pump it dry with the accelerator pump, then when it stalls try it, see if the bowl is going empty.

motorhead
 

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carb spacer

I have the same problem......but It does not happen all the time...even if its hot. Thought the fuel was boiling but that was not it after a new spacer........it has to be a vacuum leak some where....I replaced everything on my 68...coils, ignition etc.
 

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My '66 with 289 and Holley Carb is doing the exact same thing. Live here in Florida, and on hot days, the car wants to stall when you brake, or moving very slow with power steering turned all the way to one side, and/or the AC is on.... If it completely stalls out, it has no problems starting back up... But it is super annoying.
 

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Have you tried lowering the float level ? Rebuilt, and even new Holley carbs, often come with the float level set too high.

Installing an AutoMeter temperature gauge will help you determine exactly how hot the engine is getting when you have the problems. Until you know that your actions will not be focused sufficiently.

Note: your Chilton manual is not a good substitute for the Ford published shop manual. The chilton book does not have complete information on your car, and does not have the troubleshooting information that the Ford manual has.

You can get the Ford manual at Amazon, or any of the national Mustang vendors.

Z
 

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You requested some wild *** guesses, so ...

1 Install old fashion points
2 Change the PCV valve
3 Connect the distributor’s vacuum advance to the manifold vacuum instead of carb
4 Ditto to the carb float level suggestion
5 Ditto to the hook-a-timing-light-up and drive suggestion – you do really need to determine if it’s an electrical problem or a fuel issue
6 Check for vacuum leaks using a vacuum gauge (there’s an excellent photo chart of gauge readings to determine engine issues, but I can’t find it at the moment)
7 Disconnect the transmission vacuum and see if that has an affect ... there almost seems to be a correlation between the automatic shifting and the stalling, which is why I hate automatics as they throw another curve into the equation

Good luck, keep us informed.
 

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Ditto on the carb float level. I have a DP Holley that would run fine and never stumble as long as it was not really hot out. When the engine was hot AND it was a very hot day... if I went over a speed bump (even at a crawl very slowly) it wanted to die. I lowered the fuel level in the bowls just a smidge, and eliminated the problem. My thinking is that being very hot with both ambient, and engine temperatures combined... the fuel levels in the bowls must have raised almost like boiling over, and just a little bit of rocking motion caused it to die out or flood the carburetor. Might be worth a try!
 

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Mine was doing same thing. Even after I changed everything out to new. New aluminum radiator. New clutch fan, new thermostat. Cleaned and flushed engine like 20 times. I finally decided it was the fuel pump and made switch to electric. It's been a few weeks and hasn't happened again. My fuel pump was getting hot at idle and low speed traffic.
 

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Do you have a Load-O-Matic distributor? If so, do you have a carburetor with a Spark Control Valve? Have you had the distributor advance curve "calibrated"? Do you have the carburetor spacer with heater hose inlet/outlet? I assume you have an automatic transmission....does your carburetor have a dashpot?
 

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I never heard of them before. Thanks for the info. When trying to figure it out, I read in a lot of places to go with electric. So finally I did. Seems to have cured the issue. Now just need to figure out how to eliminate the fuel pump noise that I hear at idle.
 
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