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The wires on my 65 289 are orange with black boots. they say Autolite 7.5mm

The orange will not clean up so I want to replace them.

I bought a set off Rockauto. 7mm black wires with black boots. They look great but are way to long. Generic V8 wires for many applications Im suspecting.

Should I resize the 7mm wires I have or does someone make a set thats the proper length?
 

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If you have (or can borrow) the crimping tool required, I'd cut them to length. I made up the last set of MSD wires on my 302 and like the control I had in routing them.
744846
 

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I cut all mine to length as well and was very happy with the result. I used Taylor Spark Plug Wire Crimping Tools 43390 from Summit for $16 and Taylor Spiro-Pro Spark Plug Wire Sets 73053 for $60ish.

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This is the correct tool for installing plug wire terminals. This is a made in Taiwan no-name tool works okay, not great. I need to find an American made vintage one and i bet it will work perfect. I had a hard enough time finding this one. I

I bought the tool to make up plug wires for my flathead engines. This is a '32 roadster in its mach-up stage. You need to cut plug wires if you want them looking nice. I'm thinking of taking those stupid clear red wires off and going with the old Packard 440 wire which was the best wire made from the 1940s to 1970s. You can still buy NOS rolls of it on eBay

744887



I sacrificed the end of this wire just for you guys. Cut the terminal off and strip back the insulation like you would a regular wire. Except that is not a copper wire inside so its really easy to accidentally cut it. Be careful to only cut the insulation.

744880


Fold the carbon core filament back-over so it overlaps the outside of the wire by about a half inch.

744881


I was in the middle of an F-350 rear brake job so my hands are a mess in the picture. I'll give you this bonus photo. Its not a Mustang but it is a Ford. I bought a '94 F350 4x4 aerial boom truck on eBay for $2605.00 so I can paint and re-roof my two-story house and trim trees. It will keep me from falling off a '28 ladder. This is the same exact boom trucks I worked on at the phone company. It was too cheap to pass up. It had zero brakes and a bunch of little problems but the engine is great. I know those booms and generators inside and out so I wasn't afraid of the boom not working. That ended up being a $200.00 repair The brake job cost me about $400.00 in Motorcraft parts that say made in China on the boxes (pretty sad). After a new master cylinder, booster, brake hoses, axle seals rear drums and all new parts on the rear brakes. I should never have to go inside there ever again. I figure I'll have about 5K in a good reliable aerial boom truck when I'm done. I never pictured myself ever working on these boom trucks after I retired.

744888



Back to the plug wires.I get sidetracked real easy. That's how I ended up with 15 car projects. I have a hard-time staying focused on one project.

The terminal has a slot in it for a special spark plug terminal crimping tool to slide in. The tool pushes against that slot so it does not distort the terminal end that snaps onto the plug. Once you screw up the ends they never snap on the plugs correctly.

744882


Notice the carbon core is bent back opposite the end that will be crimped down. That way it pushes the carbon tight up against that metal bridge running across the terminal. The tool is suppose to take the ends and curl them back around and sink them deep into the insulation. This tool does not do as good a job as the factory crimps. But I can pull hard on it and the terminal is not going to come off, but I don't like the finished look, I want it to look factory. I guess that's what the rubber boot are for, so nobody can see my crimp job. I just need to find an old 1960s plug terminal crimping tool and I bet it will perfect

744884


Those ends should be curled some more. You might be able to take a punch and drive them down a little more. I'm going to keep looking for a better crimper. Anyway you get the idea of how it's suppose to be done. Its also good idea to slip the boot on before crimping the terminal on or you will be getting out the silicone lubricant.

744885
 

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  • I initial used a MSD block crimped tool, 2 piece inter locking blocks.
  • position plug wire and end it blocks, place in vise and compress.
  • But after making up a few sets went with the Taylor racketing player crimp tool. Worth every penny imho.
Here’s a pic of our 66 wire set up.
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I'm thinking of taking those stupid clear red wires off and going with the old Packard 440 wire which was the best wire made from the 1940s to 1970s. You can still buy NOS rolls of it on eBay


I was in the middle of an F-350 rear brake job so my hands are a mess in the picture. I'll give you this bonus photo. Its not a Mustang but it is a Ford. I bought a '94 F350 4x4 aerial boom truck on eBay for $2605.00 so I can paint and re-roof my two-story house and trim trees. It will keep me from falling off a '28 ladder. This is the same exact boom trucks I worked on at the phone company. It was too cheap to pass up. It had zero brakes and a bunch of little problems but the engine is great. I know those booms and generators inside and out so I wasn't afraid of the boom not working. That ended up being a $200.00 repair The brake job cost me about $400.00 in Motorcraft parts that say made in China on the boxes (pretty sad). After a new master cylinder, booster, brake hoses, axle seals rear drums and all new parts on the rear brakes. I should never have to go inside there ever again. I figure I'll have about 5K in a good reliable aerial boom truck when I'm done. I never pictured myself ever working on these boom trucks after I retired
I have a spool of the 440 wire. Had it a long time, I dont recall if it came from ebay, a swapmeet or?. I've made up a few sets of wires. I've heard it is not exactly the same stuff as back in the day but works OK for me.

Sounds like a great deal on that truck. $2,600? I may have to start checking ebay for boom trucks. Scrap/part out the boom and put a camper shell on it.. LOL
 

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I also purchased the 43401 & 43402 crimp jaws for insulated and non-insulated wire connectors which I use far more than the plug wire jaws. Well worth the additional cost.
 

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Should I resize the 7mm wires I have or does someone make a set thats the proper length?
[/QUOTE]

I had a set of long MSD wires draped over each inner fender. I hated the sloppy look so I purchased a crimper, Billet Specialties Separators and MSD Distributor Boots. Cutting fitting and sizing the wires takes time and is tedious so you'll pay plenty if you have someone else do it. I measured 3 times and cut once as well as taking lots of time to get the plug boots configured perfectly.
Proflow 4.jpg
Passenger Plug Wires.jpg
Driver's Side Plug Wires.jpg
Distributor Plug Wires.jpg
 

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I've used this simple plug terminal crimping tool many times with great success. You place the blocks in a vise.
It works own 8mm wire too.
 

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