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It work real well with NOS! Wire it to the activation switch to get 4 degrees of retard when you hit the button.

Just be sure to use a good quality module. Some of the cheap ones I have seen don't have the retard circuit inside, even though the wire is still there in the connector.
 

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Yes, this works great. You have to open the hole for the wiring in the body of the distributor. I just altered mine from the round "O" shape on the point body to the "U" shaped hole on the Duraspark body.

One minor problem I have run into in doing this is that some units end up out of phase which causes problems in getting the timing set right. If you look at the distributor before conversion, check to see where the rotor is pointing when the points are on top of the lobe. Usually, it will be exactly lined up with one of the spark plug terminals on the cap. Check it again after conversion with the stator wheel lined up with the pickup. Some times the rotor is missaligned and is not right on a terminal. To correct it, remove the stator wheel and put it back on the shaft without the locator pin. Turn the shaft to line the rotor up with one of the spark plug terminals. Now hold the shaft and turn the stator wheel until it lines up with the pickup. Mark the spot on the stator wheel where the groove for the pin needs to be to line up correctly. I then use a small triangle file to cut a new pin groove in the stator.
 
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