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Discussion Starter #1
I'm trying to analyze if it is worth it to replace my existing (10 year old) pool pump with a new one that may be more efficient.

How do I go about calculating how much electricity my current pump is using to compare to a new pump?

Will a 1.5 HP/ 230V pump always use the same amount of electricity when running?
 

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Nope. Motors have different efficiencies (though they tend to be fairly efficient, because any inefficiency is lost as heat, which itself is detrimental to the motor and/or costs the manufacturer more in heatsinks/mass)

Impellers are also different.

However, unlike "things that are electronic" or "things that are insulated", electric motor tech and impeller design probably hasn't changed much in the last 10 years, so I doubt you have a big win ahead by replacing a working pump with a newer working pump.
 

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I've casually checked pumps whem I'm at the pool supply store and I know there are now two-speed pumps but I'm not really sure about their specific application. There are also units marketed as being very quiet, if that's important.
 

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Most of the loss in pool pump efficiency is in the impeler and not the motor. As the impeler wears it pumps less volume per rpm of the motor. (ie. gallons per minute)

This is not necessarily a problem if your pool is circulating OK. For example, a new pump will output 100 gpm and and old pump will output 80 gpm. If you circulate for two hours, both pumps will rotate nearly the same rpms and draw nearly the same amount of electricity. The new pump however, moved more water. The only advantage the new pump has is that it can be run for a shorter period of time.
 

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where you may get some reduction in electrical usage is by procuring a variable speed pool pump.

A couple of freinds of mine who have purchased solar pool heaters (black plastic panels that go on your roof) also got a variable speed pump to move the water as needed...

If you need a source for this solution, PT me and I'll see if I can dig up the vendor out here on the left coast who can tell you about them.....
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Cool, thanks guys. Figured with the tax rebates this year for efficiency type stuff, now might be the time to buy. Other logic would be its just about impossible to save money replacing something that isn't already broken.
 

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One of my clients is a HOA with a community pool. We recently replaced the pump this year while doing the VGB upgrades at a cost of around $2,500 (around there, I can't remember off the top of my head). Estimated annual savings of over $1,500 and as you pointed out, there were some tax incentives as well.

Every bidder I talked to said the more efficient pump was a no-brainer. So far the reduction in PG&E bills would support this claim.

Good luck :thumbsup:
 

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Will a 1.5 HP/ 230V pump always use the same amount of electricity when running?
No.

If you mean as it ages, then the answer is it will become more inefficient as the bearings wear but if you don't hear them whining then you'll probably never sense a change in efficiency.

The power the pump consumes is a function of the load it is carrying. For example your 1.5HP pump is rated to provide 1.5Hp at full rated load. It would be unusual for your pump to be running at full load.

I have a 55,000 gallon pool and just went through sizing and replacing the main filter pump as the one I had, a 3.0 Hp Hayward Series II was 10 years old and the bearings were going out. I looked into a 2 speed and elected to remain with a single speed and drop the HP rating down to 2.5 and go with the Jandy "Whisperflow".

I'm glad I did. It is much more quiet and flows as much or more water as the old 3.0 Hp Hayward. I wish now I would have stepped down to a 2.0 Hp.

Replaced it myself after buying the pump online for $650.

Good luck!
 

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be careful with the ARRA stimulus , it is a tax credit not a tax refund , so best you can do is back to $0 .

i work for a wholesaler of ac equipment , my boss had me research the hvac part of the ARRA stimulus and it is very misleading . only if you buy qualifying equipment ( has ahri number ) then you get a tax credit of up to $1500.00 now here's the tricky part you only get this money if you owe on your taxes . so if at the end of the year you owe the gov $750.00 that means you actually owe $0.00 and no you don't get the other $750.00 refunded ,it does rollover to the next tax year once again as a credit .
 

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Don't get confused about tax liability (the total amount you owe in tax in a given year) with getting a tax refund or not.

A tax credit cannot reduce your liability (the total you owe) below $0, but it can create a refund for you.

Let's say that you owe $10K in taxes, and are facing a $1K credit, meaning you owe a total of $9K after credit.

If you had $11K withheld throughout the year (and would have gotten a $1K refund), now you'll get a $2K refund.
 

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mikemstang said:
now here's the tricky part you only get this money if you owe on your taxes . so if at the end of the year you owe the gov $750.00 that means you actually owe $0.00 and no you don't get the other $750.00 refunded ,it does rollover to the next tax year once again as a credit.
mikemstang said:
so you agree?
That depends.

http://www.irs.gov/pub/irs-pdf/f1040.pdf

I agree if what you're saying is "line 56 of 2008 form 1040 cannot go lower than $0 because of this credit"

I don't agree if what you're saying is "line 72 of 2008 form 1040 cannot go ABOVE $0 as a result of this credit"

The phrase "owe the gov" means different things to different people. Some people interpret that to mean line 56 (total liability). Some people interpret that to mean line 75 (that you have to write a check on 4/15/2010).

I was just trying to clarify, and in fact assumed you meant line 75, which I think is the more common (but less correct, IMO) "owe the gov" meaning.
 
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