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First, to everyone that contributes on this forum, thank you. I have consumed more threads than I can count and no matter the question, I have always been able to find my answer here.

I have been waiting to create a build thread for quite some time, and with a little time off around Christmas, now seemed like the right time.

So as stated in the title, "Post Deer Hit," one could imply that there was a "Pre-Deer Hit" era to my vehicle and you would be correct.

These were taken shortly after I purchased the car back in 2013. She's nothing special but I have always loved the look of the 67's and there is something about the vinyl that I like.

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She was never anything super special, but this example was rust free (from what I could see), had a 289, and was in pretty good working order.
From 2013 to 2017, I updated the ignition, put a new fiberglass backed headliner in (totally worth the money), rewired the headlights, and just tried to drive the sh** out of it when I could.

The plan was going great, pulled it out of storage in 2017 after winter, tuned it up and took it out for the maiden voyage of the new year.
And.... deer suck. I at least hit the "sh*" out of it... literally, that mud pie on the fender... that is literally deer sh* lol.
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So now what... I guess take it to the local body shop.. and find out that the car was green, and had been painted red with single stage.. sh** ... we need to paint the whole car.
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Oh, also there was a pinhole rust bubble under the vinyl top, so that has to come off, along with the glass... and part of the front frame rail section is rotting (couldn't see that from the outside) .... and the cowl panel needed replaced ... and all of a sudden the "while I'm in there" list grew to the tune of well over double what I received from the insurance company... but never the less, while I was in there, I might as well do it right. (sort of)

So the learning curve... at this point, I had never done body work in my life.
The big hurdle: I couldn't afford to paint the whole car (insurance only paid to repair and repaint damaged panels)

So, I asked for help. I worked out a deal with the body shop owner that I would take care of the mechanical stuff and help with the body work and he would spray the whole car! It was a win for everyone.
The body shop could continue to turn and burn the new stuff instead of working on the money pit that is old cars. I would get to learn how to do body work and get the car painted all the same color!

So I'll just start from the beginning and post pictures as I go.
Please keep in mind a few things before commenting, this car was a bastard (non matching anything) so it was never going back to original.. and most of the stuff I did was my first time ever doing it, so it may not be perfect.

Step 1: Tear down.

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Step 2: Repair front clip - damaged from the deer hit and bad passenger side front frame rail section.

Before:
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Spot weld drill bit came in handy. Removed front radiator support. Also removed battery tray / front extension due to a sh** patch job from PO.
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Discussion Starter #2
Step 2 - Cont.
While i was in there, cowl panel came out entirely and revealed the rats nest of bad wiring and general out of sight out of mind debauchery.
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Step 3: Strap that thang on the frame bench. The car dang near grew roots on that bench.. the fitup process was extensive... everything ties into the cowl.. so fitting the fenders / hood etc took time...
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Eventually you have to start welding sh** together. BTW... spot welders are the ****.
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Discussion Starter #4
By this point, the front clip was pretty much done.. You may have noticed that there was some new shiny bits that I didn't mention.. I'll get to those.. for now here's some more from the cowl panel.
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Little sneak peak on the color choice. Also, from the factory: the inner cowl is not painted, but rather catches overspray on top of primer.. which doesnt hold up well or look good..
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Had to sand blast the corners:
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Little dash of weld through primer.
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Also. do yourself a favor and reuse the original apron extensions. These are new ones. Notice how one is sharp edged and the other looks pressed via a 3 year old with a hammer...
That's all that was available at the time... needless to say, I pulled the old one out of the scrap pile and reused it.
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Step 2 - Cont.
So in order to set the cowl, we found it important to have the car sitting correctly... all the suspension was clapped out and old so... while I was in there...

New suspension all the way around. Started with stock replacement rear leafs. Switched over to reverse eye to drop the rear a bit more.
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I also added a spacer on one side to help counter the "gangster lean" these cars tend to have.
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I only kept the spindles and A arms from the front. Everything else was replaced with new Moog parts and I splurged a bit on roller perches and progressive lowering springs.
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Coated the tower in POR 15.

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You'll also notice the front brakes are now disk. That whole kit was pretty cool but was a bit of a PITA to install.
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So they give you some random bent lines and pretty much say good luck... I had to figure out how and where to put the proportioning valve and line routing..
I think the line routing could be better... but the car stops well.
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Eventually, the front clip was repaired and the car finally made it off the frame bench. With a bit larger tire I will say.....
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Keep it going !!! Welcome to VMF.
 

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Step 3: Finish the body work.

So its always hard to tell what you are going to find once you start taking things down to bare metal... this car was no exception.
We found that we needed to replace the cowl, redo a couple patches around the drivers quarter, refresh the front fender, find some sort of miracle to make the aftermarket metal fit and a few other odds and ends.

Quarters: These were covered in bondo pretty thick.. the body shop I use doesnt believe in bondo... so make it metal. NOTE: neither old patches were welded completely... just tacked.
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Also there are two available repair panels for the rear. One is cheap and not cupped on the bottom.. and the other is correct... they used the cheap one previously as well.
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The quality was not good on the rear patch... had to cut out the inner trunk panel as well as a few parts of the inner wheel housing.
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So you cant purchase a piece that has this portion of the quarter in it unless you buy like the whole back half piece... So I made one out of some spare sheet metal. Getting the contour correct was tough... lots of time with a hammer and dolly and a sand bag.
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Little bit of lead and a few hours of filing.. felt like the same contour as the passenger side. Over all pretty happy how everything turned out.
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Passenger side had a few small things around the wheel lip... and the rear most portion had been rubbed and stretched quite a bit before... So we filled it with lead and filed it down.
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During the quarter panel repair, I decided to roll the fenders so I could get some more tire in there. I wish I had done the fronts as well at that time, but oh well.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Step 3 - Cont.

The front fenders they sell aftermarket are flat out junk... no matter how much you spend.. the door gap and the hood gaps were so bad on one of the new ones that we decided to pull the old drivers side fender out and clean it up vs using the aftermarket. That being said... here's some pics.

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So this fender had actually been repaired once... we didn't notice anything wrong with it when we stripped it, but turns out the weld was junk. I now have a hairline crack in the paint from the weld giving up.. oh well.
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Step 4 - Paint - Literally the most exciting time ever... I chose RR from 2017... this was the 5 stage version... but since some of the stuff was getting covered up... we used the 3 stage version on the jambs etc which saved quite a bit of money.

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Mark did an awesome job laying it down.
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Step 5 - Assemble

While I was in there... I added kick panel speakers.
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Went a little over board on the sound proofing lol..
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I attached the prints for the box. It was a design that I used from a guy that had posted online.. I turned it into a sheet metal part in creo and created a DXF so I could get it cut by the local shop.

I bent everything up using a bench vise and hammer / dolly. I then spot welded it together. If you want a copy of the .dxf, just PM me and I can sent it.. the forum wont let me post it.

I also added the inboard lights that toggle on and off using the bright light foot switch.

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Dash pads ... they are not fun to put in... and also way easier to do without the glass... not sure how you could do it with the glass in...
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I decided to put the vinyl back on.. dont ask me why... but for some reason that part of the car grew on me and I couldn't see doing it any other way..
That being said.. watching some one do vinyl is an experience to say the least..
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Step Last... reveal

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My two... the wife let me get the 17 track pack while the old one was in the shop... 50 years apart in the same color.
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So.. after it was all said and done, I got my car back in better shape than it started by a long shot..
took me less than a year for everything.
Spent a lot of weekends, and evenings at the shop, countless hours.. countless beers.
I think it came out looking pretty good.. it is by far from perfect...

All the tires have rubbed at some point.. the motor mounts are bad which caused the AC compressor belt to rub through paint under the hood, need to still finish a bunch of stuff still too... but all in good time.
 

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While I was in there... I added kick panel speakers.
I was just thinking the other day that would be the perfect spot for kick panel speakers. I'm glad to see it can be done! What model of speaker did you use?

I attached the prints for the box. It was a design that I used from a guy that had posted online.. I turned it into a sheet metal part in creo and created a DXF so I could get it cut by the local shop.
You must be an engineer... I also use CREO at work. Thanks for posting the drawing. I saved it and will likely make use of it. What's the step on the rear side of the box for?

Do you have a picture of the speakers installed inside the car? Would love to see them. Where did you buy the kick panels? I assume they are just standard flat panels that you cut holes in?

Really nicely done on the whole thing. Car looks great!!!
 

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Looks great, lots of good work done there. You've got to appreciate a shop that still uses lead. All four of those tires will always rub, while youve created the look you desire, the front is too low and the rear tires are too big.
 
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