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My car is VERY low. In order to get that low, I maxed out on the backspacing, and I was running a narrower front tire, than I'd like. She looked like a drag car, instead of a pro-touring car.
So in keeping with the stealthy, modifications, I decided to stretch the front fenders, and see what happened.
The fender profile, change looks like this;


I think, it looks pretty good, and I love the much wider front tires;



Not too many people will be able to tell and the car will look even meaner ;)
 

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This is "Thunder" The theme of the project, was to improve the car, but make it look as if the changes were period correct, as much as possible. There are hundreds and hundreds of stealthy mods, throughout the car. One example; the insides of all the scoops were block sanded, instead of having raw fiberglass mat.

I worked a long time on the "stance" and am very happy with the way she turned out. Front is 2" lowered, rear 1.5", Engine 434cu FE, rear tires 315/35/17


Every piece of fiberglass and sheet metal was modified in some way. Some more than others. When it is all together, she looks stock, but better than stock. I love it when enthusiasts puzzle over the car, and say "what did you do here, is this stock?"



Thunder will be raising money for a local children's hospital starting this summer.
Liking this, the stance in particular, so much more radical than we see over here in england
Chris
 

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King of Sting 1970 Mach 1

Love all the cars here. This is my blog. Just have a few months on the build so far. A very long ways to go.
 

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I have a 1966 K code coupe and I am interested in pulling the hipo 289 and transplanting a 330hp/302 crate motor in it and saving the hipo 289 for posterity.
its a toploader 4sp car with factory 9 inch rearend,so it appears that it would be a easy swap. My question is,I have both the factory cast iron intake and a Edelbrock F4B intake,my question is will these manifolds be compatible with the late model 302 crate motors and will the top radiator hose location Passenger side work? Also does the mid sixties bellhousing (6 bolt) match up to the new engines? How 'bout the mechanical clutch linkage and the 10.4 or 10.5 inch clutch match up with these later model engines or do you have to use a hydraulic clutch instead of the old 3 finger type clutches and finally with the exhaust ports will the the hypo exhaust manifold work with aluminum heads and port location or do I have to get a set of custom headers for this swap. Thanks in advance
 

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My car is VERY low. In order to get that low, I maxed out on the backspacing, and I was running a narrower front tire, than I'd like. She looked like a drag car, instead of a pro-touring car.
So in keeping with the stealthy, modifications, I decided to stretch the front fenders, and see what happened.
The fender profile, change looks like this;


I think, it looks pretty good, and I love the much wider front tires;



Not too many people will be able to tell and the car will look even meaner ;)
May I ask how you streched the fenders? I'm interested in doing this for my '68.
 

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Is this to good to be true? I just picked up a 1990 ranger master cylinder to replace the stock cast iron master in my 65 fastback. It's virtually a direct bolt in, the ports are on the and are correct side, and are standard 7/16" and 9/16" inverted flare it's got a 15/16" bore and all the same measurements as the original. My car has front Granada discs and stock rear drums. The ranger is also a discs drum set up. Can anyone see why this won't work? Most people seem to be using the 2000 ranger MC but it has the metric fittings on the wrong side and 1" bore, which equals a harder pedal to depress.
 

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Is this to good to be true? I just picked up a 1990 ranger master cylinder to replace the stock cast iron master in my 65 fastback. It's virtually a direct bolt in, the ports are on the and are correct side, and are standard 7/16" and 9/16" inverted flare it's got a 15/16" bore and all the same measurements as the original. My car has front Granada discs and stock rear drums. The ranger is also a discs drum set up. Can anyone see why this won't work? Most people seem to be using the 2000 ranger MC but it has the metric fittings on the wrong side and 1" bore, which equals a harder pedal to depress.
Everything seems to match up so I don't see why it won't work. I'll definitely look into this for my brake setup.
Thanks for posting.
 
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