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I've seen several places that sell a thing that replaces the control valve for my 70 Mustang. It allows you to get rid of the power steering system (read atf spraying system). What I can't figure out is why I can't just unscrew the hoses from the valve assembly, and get rid of the slave cylinder and pump? Why do I need this $160+ item to replace the valve assembly?

Also...whats the steering like without the power assist?

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1617246&a=12345912&p=45146549.jpg

1970 Fastback, 4V 351C, various colors with black interior
 

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If you wanna try it without the power.... just pull the belt off and try steering.... should help you decide real quick if thats what you wanna do?

Ken
99GTP
97 Yukon
68 GT convert
 
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Not true...

If you just take the belt off and turn the wheel, your having to force ATF though the valve assembly and work against the slave cylinder. It'll be considerably easier than that or there would be *no* manual steer cars out there because Arnold Swarzenager cant' fit in one. :)

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1617246&a=12345912&p=45146549.jpg

1970 Fastback, 4V 351C, various colors with black interior
 

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The reason you need the adapter, is that the control valve on the end of your centerlink is held in there via a spring. I suspect that the ATF under pressure also provides some retention. Anyhow, if you pull everything, and the only thing left is the control valve (no ram, pump, etc) it would be very sloppy. Your other option is to buy the manual centerlink and new tierod ends. That was my only choice, as in 65/66 the adapter is not available.


Steve Leslie, 65 coupe in restoration. 302, toploader, A/C, disc brakes, bench seat

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Get yourself a used drag link and pitman arm from a wreck. Should not cost all that much and you would have the proper components for manual steering. It will be a lot cheaper than the adapter.

68 GT500
68 1/2 CJ Coupe

MCA# 18519
 

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I've not experianced the difference, but have read here that the gearing is different in the steering boxes. Not sure if this applies to your year car. If it does, changing a power steering car over to manual and leaving the p/s steering box in will make steering at slow speeds almost impossible.

Thanks

Shaun
 
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Ive driven P/S cars with it unhooked before...difficult but managable. Guess I need to find the used parts..that sounds a little better.

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1617246&a=12411361&p=45146549.jpg

1970 Fastback, 4V 351C, various colors with black interior
 

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Two quickies: 1) Are you going to install the A/C? Two, now that you have driven your car with and without the power steering, which do you prefer for street duty (excluding autocrosses)?

Shannon a.k.a. The ShanMan! /forums/images/icons/cool.gif
66' Vintage Burgundy C-code coupe
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All the GT's and Shelby's had the same ratio steering box as the power steering cars. In fact the Shelby's had even faster steering (early cars).

Manual steering is not fun in a parking lot with wider than stock tires and to add an even faster ratio steering box makes it even harder but is certainly not 'impossible'

Paul
1965 Mustang 2+2
1989 Mustang GT Convertible
MCA #27261
MCA certified judge for 65's and late models
 

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Regarding not using the $160 adapter: If you just strip off the power ram and hoses and leave the original control valve in place eventually the stud in the control valve will rip out of its mount and you will lose your ability to steer the car which could prove fatal in a curvy mountainous road.

Manual steering effort may be harder with your 351C equipped '70 than if it had a 200 six.

I agree, converting completely to manual would be preferable, especially if your originals are over 30 years old.

Regards,

Dean T

Shikatta Ga Nai - "It cannot be helped"
 

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I was watching this post with great intererest because:

I have a PS center link/pitman arm in my '66 with NO other PS parts (except I have the 16:1 PS steering box). I have rebuilt the entire front end (all ball joints, bushings, idler arm, springs, tie rods, etc., etc.). My car does not drive sloppy. It tracks perfectly straight on the freeway at 90mph, and with the suspsension upgrades I've done, handles extremely well. I've always wondered why it's necessary to change to the manual center link ... and as of yet haven't found a reason. The only reason I've found to do so, is that we'll put PS into my son's '65 coupe which currently has the manual center link, so we're going to swap them.

If it weren't for needing the PS center link in the '65, I'd not be changing the center link in the '66.

If you always do what you've always done,
You'll always get what you've always got

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Yup. It's never had any hoses even hooked to the control valve since I've owned the car. I'm sure it trashed (and was before I bought it) and will need rebuilding when it gets transplanted to the '65.

If you always do what you've always done,
You'll always get what you've always got

http://www.classic-mustang.net/johnpro
http://www.classic-mustang.net/john66/mustang/pics/66fsides2.jpg
 
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