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1970 mustang 351w Utah
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Discussion Starter #1
I have heard you can easily delete the power steering on a 1969 and earlier easy. I have a 1970 that the water pump belt runs around the power steering as a tensioner. Anyone had luck deleting the power steering? Mine is leaking a lot and I just want to delete it.
 

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You'll have to change your steering box. I believe the PS box is 4 turns hard left to hard right. Manual is 6 turns... I think.
 

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The factory Ford power steering is good stuff, can be made leak free, but if you wanna go to manual you don't have to change the box. Check with @CHOCK for the best advice.
 

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I have a 1970 with power steering I'm converting to manual right now. There's a few ways to do it. You can buy a manual steering adapter that will replace your control valve as seen here CONVERTOR Power Steering TO M/S CONVERTS Power Steering - #3A163-2A - National Parts Depot

It allows you to remove your ram, and all other power steering stuff.

The other way, which is the way I elected to go, is to buy a new drag link specific for a manual steering car, new idler arm, and you'll at least need a new pitman arm specific for manual steering cars. I bought a used manual steering box off of ebay for 90 bucks that had the manual pitman arm because it was only 30 dollars more. There is a difference between power steering boxes and manual boxes. I believe manual boxes are 5 turn and power boxes are 4 turn. I am converting to manual because I like the feedback and will be looking to start auto crossing and tracking in the future.

When I costed out all of the parts to completely restore my power steering ( new tie rods, new ram, new pump, all new hoses, rebuild the control valve myself, new idler) I was around 700. That's using concours hoses from NPD. To convert to manual I'm spending about 400. New tie rods, manual idler, new drag link, new steering box.
 

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I read that the 4 turn power box makes steering noticeably harder than the 5 turn. I have manual steering on my 69 with 235/60 R15 cooper cobras and feel it steers pretty easy. The 4 turn box is used as a quick steer box by some. I wanted to have both so I could experiment.
 

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1970 mustang 351w Utah
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Discussion Starter #7
How did you get around the water pump v belt going around the power steering pump for the tensioner?
 

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My motor is in pieces and I haven't got to that yet :p my 69 has the belt going around the water pump to the alternator. I haven't looked closely to see if it would require you get a different water pump pulley or not when deleting power steering. Perhaps someone else will chime in
 

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Shorter belt...or no belt, if PS is the only thing it drives.
 

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I have heard you can easily delete the power steering on a 1969 and earlier easy. I have a 1970 that the water pump belt runs around the power steering as a tensioner. Anyone had luck deleting the power steering? Mine is leaking a lot and I just want to delete it.

why don't you try going with electric steering.. i did it on both my 70's from a 08 prius.. easy and cheap.. just have to be a bit creative...
 

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How did you get around the water pump v belt going around the power steering pump for the tensioner?
You change your pulleys to a non-PS setup.

For 1970, you need:

Waterpump pulley - C9OE-E
Crank Pulley - D0OE-A

Both are single groove.
 
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I had chock rebuild my power steering system. Works fantastic, no leaks. This is on my 70. The problem with epas on a 70 is the key on the column, unlike the 69 with key on dash. I started an epas project for 68, but got distracted and haven’t finished.
 

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I have heard you can easily delete the power steering on a 1969 and earlier easy. I have a 1970 that the water pump belt runs around the power steering as a tensioner. Anyone had luck deleting the power steering? Mine is leaking a lot and I just want to delete it.
OK, let's clear up some things.

a) The 4-turn power steering gearbox was identical to the HD/GT/mach1 manual gearbox, except the bearing preloads were set differently at the factory. 50 years later, this is meaningless.

b) Ford's Bendix/Thompson power steering is extremely reliable and sensitive, and works on precisely the same principals as military aircraft controls of the era.

c) The reason they leak is that some high school kid cut the band camp off the valve body, and later on he or someone else used bargain-basement generic hoses that don't fit correctly. Often the hose bracket insulator, or even the entire bracket are missing. Unless these hoses are locked down, as they were at the factory, all the vibration and movement from turning will flex the hoses where they attach, quickly damaging the inverted flare seals. Proper hoses, properly installed, will give decades of leak-free service.

As I say this, it's only fair to mention my 66 has 4-turn manual steering, as it did from the factory. I have driven countless Mustangs, and I am completely neutral on the subject. I go by what people want to drive. If you want tight steering, and forearms like Popeye, go with manual 4-turn steering. If you want easy steering, go with power boosted steering.

But if your reason is you don't like the leaks, you need to give it more thought.
 
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