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Discussion Starter #1
I don’t get it I’ve done this a dozen times or more yet every now and then I get this problem with the power steering fluid. Get it operating temperature check the fluid looks good everything‘s good take it for a ride everything‘s good sets for a couple weeks take for another ride get home have it idling in the driveway Well I have my son get inside and turn the steering wheel lock to lock a number of times just to see if the steering is binding but that’s another story, and then I see power steering fluid starting to spew out onto the driveway. I don’t get it it was fine while I was driving it it was fine last time I took it out and then this time I just decided to puke fluid. Go figure

well I have my son get inside and turn the steering wheel lock to lock a number of times just to see if the steering is binding but that’s another story, and then I see power steering fluid starting to spew out onto the driveway. I don’t get it it was fine while I was driving it, it was fine last time I took it out and then this time it just decided to puke fluid. Go figure

Little bit of a background so the car is been completely gone through the steering components bumper-to-bumper everything and I mentioned it in an earlier thread months ago that even though it’s a power steering car and I had it aligned by a reputable alignment shop in Southeast Michigan the steering is still kind a difficult at times and more importantly it doesn’t want to center it’s self coming out of a turn. Also,,,, I do have a “Shelby drop” and I have the specs from the Alignment Sho

Here are the specs after the alignment:

Chamber L 0 Caster L 1 1/25
R 0 R 1 1/4

Toe: 1/32


so really this thread is two questions and one...

Any insight on either of these issues is greatly appreciated!!!!..
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I don’t get it I’ve done this a dozen times or more yet every now and then I get this problem with the power steering fluid. Get it operating temperature check the fluid looks good everything‘s good take it for a ride everything‘s good sets for a couple weeks take for another ride get home have it idling in the driveway Well I have my son get inside and turn the steering wheel lock to lock a number of times just to see if the steering is binding but that’s another story, and then I see power steering fluid starting to spew out onto the driveway. I don’t get it it was fine while I was driving it it was fine last time I took it out and then this time I just decided to puke fluid. Go figure

well I have my son get inside and turn the steering wheel lock to lock a number of times just to see if the steering is binding but that’s another story, and then I see power steering fluid starting to spew out onto the driveway. I don’t get it it was fine while I was driving it, it was fine last time I took it out and then this time it just decided to puke fluid. Go figure

Little bit of a background so the car is been completely gone through the steering components bumper-to-bumper everything and I mentioned it in an earlier thread months ago that even though it’s a power steering car and I had it aligned by a reputable alignment shop in Southeast Michigan the steering is still kind a difficult at times and more importantly it doesn’t want to center it’s self coming out of a turn. Also,,,, I do have a “Shelby drop” and I have the specs from the Alignment Sho

Here are the specs after the alignment:

Chamber L 0
R 0

Caster L 1 1/25
R 1 1/4

Toe: 1/32


so really this thread is two questions and one...

Any insight on either of these issues is greatly appreciated!!!!..
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I don’t get it I’ve done this a dozen times or more yet every now and then I get this problem with the power steering fluid. Get it operating temperature check the fluid looks good everything‘s good take it for a ride everything‘s good sets for a couple weeks take for another ride get home have it idling in the driveway Well I have my son get inside and turn the steering wheel lock to lock a number of times just to see if the steering is binding but that’s another story, and then I see power steering fluid starting to spew out onto the driveway. I don’t get it it was fine while I was driving it it was fine last time I took it out and then this time I just decided to puke fluid. Go figure

well I have my son get inside and turn the steering wheel lock to lock a number of times just to see if the steering is binding but that’s another story, and then I see power steering fluid starting to spew out onto the driveway. I don’t get it it was fine while I was driving it, it was fine last time I took it out and then this time it just decided to puke fluid. Go figure

Little bit of a background so the car is been completely gone through the steering components bumper-to-bumper everything and I mentioned it in an earlier thread months ago that even though it’s a power steering car and I had it aligned by a reputable alignment shop in Southeast Michigan the steering is still kind a difficult at times and more importantly it doesn’t want to center it’s self coming out of a turn. Also,,,, I do have a “Shelby drop” and I have the specs from the Alignment Sho

Here are the specs after the alignment:

Chamber L 0 Caster L 1 1/25
R 0 R 1 1/4

Toe: 1/32


so really this thread is two questions and one...

Any insight on either of these issues is greatly appreciated!!!!..
 

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Discussion Starter #4
So clearly I also don’t know how to post either: Again I have the Shelby Drop.

Specs. AFTER Alignment was finished:

Chamber:
Left. 0
Right. 0

Caster:
Left: 1 1/25
Right 1 1/4

Toe: 1/32
 

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Check your return line clamps (small rubber hose) are tight, it may not seem to leak, but could "suck" air, thereby introducing air it into the system.. and cause puking..

(It may only do it at full lock?)

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
 

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Why do you say “only do it at full lock ?”
The pump/steering are working hardest at full lock, were the steering meet max resistance. Turn the steeing wheel against lock in any car with power steering and you can usually hear the pump gets noisy. Working hard also means heat into the oil.
 

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So this system works fine with normal driving, but when stressed (son turning back and forth) it "pukes".
It maybe the heat built up in the system by back and forth-lock to lock binding has caused this problem?
Then how full are you filling the pump? If you are experiencing a expansion in the fluid from heat, reduce the fluid level.
Do you have a dipstick that is correct for the pump, are you using the correct fluid for that pump?
All issues that need to be addressed.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Correct fluid level always checked with the motor hot.

Rebuilt pump from NPD

type F tranny fluid

More importantly than that is the steering wheel not center itself when coming out of a turn...?........
 

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More importantly than that is the steering wheel not center itself when coming out of a turn...?........
More positive caster will give you a faster return to center after a steering input. It will also stiffen up the steering feel, but since you have power steering adding more positive caster should be an improvement overall. Adding more caster to a manual steering car requires a noticeable amount of arm strength to overcome and can get tiring if too much caster is dialed in.

How is the condition of the steering box and idler arm? Do they move freely?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Steering box is a rebuilt model from national parts it seems fine. Idler arm is the new purchased from CJ pony parts. I remember the idler arm being difficult to move In my hand but I thought that’s how they were because of the rubber bushing???
 

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If it was my vehicle, I’d get (or do it myself) another alignment done with the following specs... (this is from the OPENTRACKER site)

STREET SPECS
Caster:
+2° to +3.5° Manual Steer
+2.5° to +4.5° Power Steer
Camber:
0 to -.5°
Toe:
1/8″ in

The biggest change from your current settings is more caster and a wee bit more toe in. Adding more caster is your main goal. If you can get over 3 degrees on both sides that would be good. Adding a bit more toe in will help the car track in a straight line and not wander about, especially when going over bumps in the road and such. And whatever you do, don’t allow camber to go positive! A little bit of negative camber will help keep the tire perpendicular to the ground when you go around a corner.

I think an updated alignment will fix your non-returning steering wheel issue. As for the occasional puking PS pump, that’s a weird one...
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Would it also cause stiff steering as well,,, sometimes as if it’s not power assist?

As I said the idler arm prior to install was very difficult to move but my impression is it supposed to be that way with that rubber bushing ——-unless I’m way off base here.
 

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Sounds, to me, like fluid aeration on the return side is causing expansion that can't be contained in the reservoir. Possible issue with the control valve or slave cylinder?
 

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I think the easiest solution would be not to turn the wheel lock to lock in the driveway. If not possible, I installed a transmission cooler on the fender apron to stop my car from puking fluid out when I autocross. It works perfectly even though it's not in a high airflow area. Power steering fluid gets really hot really quickly! A sub 40 second run and it would be puking all over the fender apron.

739174
 

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Sounds, to me, like fluid aeration on the return side is causing expansion that can't be contained in the reservoir. Possible issue with the control valve or slave cylinder?
Right track I believe.
If occasion/limited assist, then a component problem more than likely. Should be constant assist, not occasional.
 
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