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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
People have been clamoring to hear about my Powerjection III install, so I figured I'd go ahead and start a thread on it. Today's post will relate entirely to preparations I'm making for the transition to EFI, since I haven't actually received the system yet :)

First off, I'm going with the PIII system for three reasons:
1) The simplicity. I'm a novice mechanic at best, and I know when I've bitten off more than I can chew (constantly :lol:). This project will kick my ***, but I'm trying to keep the ***-kicking to a minimum.
2) The looks. I dig the look of a 4-barrel carb, plain and simple. I don't like the teeny tiny little square bore throttle bodies (like the Holley Avenger, Fast EZefi, etc.), and I want to keep a more vintage look.
3) Function. I want cold starting, no vapor lock, and no excessive tinkering on my daily driver. I wouldn't mind babying her, but if I need to be at work in 15 minutes and the carb has decided it's not going to cooperate, that's not cool. The PIII system will add reliability, but not too much complexity - in effect, it's sort of a 'smart carb'.

So, on to what I've done so far... nothing :lol: I have, however, made a large list of things that need to be done. I intend to do this install in steps, so Jane is driveable for most of the install - if I've learned anything during my past year with her, it's that not being able to drive kills my motivation. I really slow down about 1/4 of the way into a project because everything seems to pile up, but being able to hop in and drive makes everything better and reminds me why I'm putting up with all of this :lol: As such, this is how I'm doing my install:
1) Make a mount for the electric pump near the gas tank, and install said electric pump (Mallory 4060FI)
2) Run a return line one size larger than the stock line. I haven't decided how I'm going to do this yet - the line needs to come out on the passenger side of the firewall, so it can go right up to the regulator near the back of the intake. I'm either going to rebend a prebent fuel line to be a mirror image of the stock line, or partially rebend a prebent fuel line so it follows the driver’s side up, then ends up on the passenger’s side. Not sure on that one yet.
3) Mod the intake. The PIII requires a water temp sender bung, so I’m going to have my body guy weld an aluminum one in on my intake. I could use the stock one, but then I’d have none going to the gauge! I figure I can plug up the bung until I’m ready to use it.
4) Prepare and install modded gas tank filler neck. The taillight panel is getting pulled when Jane goes to bodywork (long story short, easier to pull than fix), so it’ll be a perfect time to get a new one ready. The PIII system requires a larger vent than the one that a vented gas cap provides, so I want to add a little tube on top of the filler neck that goes out to one of the filler neck mounting holes. It’ll allow the tank to vent more from under the cap, but will keep it simple. No exhaust in the trunk, no crazy mechanisms going everywhere waiting to get ripped out.
5) Prepare new sending unit. Ron Morris makes one, but it’s $100 and that’s way expensive for me. I’m going to order a brand new one, then drill a hole in the plate and weld up an extra elbow so it looks just like the Ron Morris unit, but for $60 less. The extra elbow will be for the return line – rest will be stock.
6) Go for the gold! Pull the carb and install new PIII throttle body. Drill 5/8” hole in header to install O2 sensor; connect vacuum line to back of intake; connect water temp sender to new bung; drain gas tank, pull old sender, and install new sender; connect fuel lines in the new locations.
7) Drive the tar out of Jane, tweak system if I feel confident enough to mess with it. Leave it if not :p

So, that’s my game plan. I’ve already fudged it by ordering the wrong pump, which I hope to remedy shortly. Lucky for me, my body guy is really great and doesn’t mind me piling on a couple of extra projects, so he’s going to do my welding work (sender, filler neck, intake). Everything else I should be able to do myself with a lot of luck and cooperation from Jane!
 

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Sounds like you have a good game plan. I like the Powerjection III for the same reasons you mentioned. I am interested in hearing how you like it once you get it running.
P.S. don't short change yourself, you sound like one step up from a novice to me!
 

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Not to dampen what seems like a small detail but: check carefully "over think" on the fuel level sender. Many of the non original are junk.

Slim
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Are they really? I hadn't heard anything about that. Is there a certain one I should get that's high quality?
 

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Post fail!! I read the title and expected to see an installed system! LOL!!

On #3, can you find a water neck/thermostat housing with a threaded port for some of the later model 302's with temp controlled vacuum switch?
Would save a lot of work pulling intake.

Keep us posted on how it goes. I'm planning on the FAST system, but looked at yours too.
And for the same reasons. It looks like a carb! But did get some negative vibes on forums due to being made off shore, and Professional Products parts falures on their line of distributors. Again, internet rumor so it must be true.
 

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Are they really? I hadn't heard anything about that. Is there a certain one I should get that's high quality?
Repo senders have been discussed several times as being crummy. My personal experience is when we cleaned out the tank (off the car), and the lines I bought a repo sender from MU...nothing special. I tightened the fitting and took extra with the gasket when installing.

It doesn't leak, the gauge reads close on the bottom end. I keep it close to empty so I don't end up with stale gas in the tank.


Slim
 

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Looking forward to following this...I have been toying with the idea of FI, but can't decide whether to or not, then if so which unit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hey, it says 'install thread', not 'install post' :p

Slim, guess I've missed those threads. Thanks for the heads up, I'll do a bit more research before just haphazardly ordering one now.

Bah, the worst part about this install is the pump, I'm convinced. I'll have the whole dang thing installed and STILL be trying to figure out which pump to go with :lol: I have only my own indecisiveness to blame by now though, as 3 external pumps and 1 internal pump have been suggested to me.

On the plus side... the system actually just came a few minutes ago, so I went ahead and opened it up and took pictures! So, at least we can say I've made progress :p I went from no kit to... having the kit, I guess. Here they are:

[Passenger side view]


[Driver's side view]


[Upside down (always wondered what it looks like on the bottom)]


[Gauge already plumbed in]


[Temp sending unit]


[O2 sensor (I think)]


[Handy dandy O2 sensor installation kit (in case you don't feel like welding a bung onto your headers, you can drill a hole and use this instead)]


[Fuel pump - looks nice, but it's getting sold!]


Also included was a fuel filter, some wiring for hooking a laptop up to the unit, a CD containing the software needed to set up and tweak things, a very nice instruction booklet, and gaskets. Didn't bother to take a pic of all of those though since everyone has seen what those look like before :p

At any rate, I'm actually really pleased with it. Some people have reported that it looks and feels 'cheap', but that is not the case with this unit. It may be that the polished unit (what I got) is higher quality than the satin unit. Good thing it was on sale for less than the satin unit! Really excited about this :)
 

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Please keep us posted on your project. I would like to do the same to my 76 mustangII after i do the T-5 swap. The only difference is that i will have a fuel cell in my car. Im trying to get her ready to do a Hot Rod Powertour someday.
 

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You gotta love a young lady, who is excited to have a carberator on the kitchen table!
I've gotten flack for that move!

Looking forward to a picture of Jane smoking the tires!

Kelly, one question; Did this kit come with an inertia-switch that cuts power to the pump, in the event of a (God forbid) accident?

Ditto to what another poster said...you're way above "novice".
Best of Luck,
Marc
 

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You have a good game plan, good luck! Email if you need help with anything
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
No, the kit doesn't come with an inertia switch, but I had plans to go to a junkyard to pull one. However, I was just reading through the instructions another time around and saw this:

Note: When you turn the key to the “on” position, you will hear the fuel pump come on for a few seconds and
then shut off. This is normal . The EMS needs to receive a distributor reference signal when turning to maintain
power to the fuel pump. This is a safety feature built into the system in case the vehicle is in an accident and the
engine stops; power is shut off to the fuel system.
Sounds like that acts like an oil pressure switch? In which case, I guess an inertia switch is still needed to cut the pump if the engine is still running in the event of an accident. I'll be grabbing one of those - trick is to find one that's not TOO sensitive, since I tend to drive across grass and bumpy roads. Have heard stories about people who've had their fuel cut off by that switch when driving across roads undergoing construction! :lol:

I think that Ozarks has convinced me to swap to an in-tank pump like the type that Tanks Inc. makes. Even though it puts fuel lines in the trunk, he seemed to have a good game plan for isolating them and the benefits just outweigh the negatives. Hurray for making more work for myself!
 

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No, the kit doesn't come with an inertia switch, but I had plans to go to a junkyard to pull one.
While most any inertia switch will work provided it's mounted correctly, I will warn you newer Fords use a new design switch that can be identified by a rubber covering over the reset button. Do not use one of these as they are very unreliable compared to Ford's older design switch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks for the heads up. Any specific year range I should be looking for?
 

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I have read up on the powerjection III as well and this will be interesting. I would suggest a late 90's early 2000's Taurus as they are plentiful and the inertia switches were reliable. Find one with a dry trunk and steal the switch.
 
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