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I've heard it refered to many times, here, and I've searched the forum (using - pre-oil), but have not seen any procedural information on how to accomplish this.

I read that spinning the oil pump shaft (CCW) is required. Is there a special tool for this? Is it done with a drill motor?

I'm taking it on faith that my motor was rebuilt properly. This is my first time for bringing one to life. I would just like to try and do it right, the first time.

As always, all help is appreciated. Sounds like they had a good time in Iowa over the weekend. Next year I'll make the trip.

Mark
 

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You are correct in wanting to spin your pump in a CCW direction. Tools are made for this and a variable speed drill works well. I made a my own tool by taking a cheap 6 point 1/4" drive socket (I cannot recall the size, 5/16"?) and grinding it so the barrel of the socket would be thinner. The barrel of the socket needs to be smaller in diameter than the bottom of your distributer. You can then use the socket with a long 1/4" socket extention to spin the oil pump. Once you have some oil coming out by the rocker arms, you should have the system primed.

You could do a search under "engine priming" and find more.
 

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Here's what you need to do.

Remove the dist. and make yourself a way to drive the oil pump driveshaft. I use a long 1/4" hex socket securely wrapped with electrical tape (for security) to a 1/4" drive extension.

Remove the valvecovers, make sure the engine has oil. Attach your homemade drive/socket to an electric drill and get after it. Monitor the rocker arms for oil flow. If you feel the pump lose primp and cavitate, reverse the direction, you may have it backwards( I think CCW is the correct way).

When you are convinced your getting oil to all the lifters,... your done. (Also check your oil pressure gauge is indicating)

You might be suprized to see just how much horsepower it takes to drive that oil pump (especially if it's a high volume one). That's why I don't use high volume pumps.

Use your new tool to rotate the oil pump slightly when re-installing the dist. so it just "drops in"!

good luck!
 

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Thank you, Rlsteel, for answering my question without my asking it. It seemed obvious to me that pre-oiling with the crank in one position will not get the oil everywhere you need it to go.

What's wrong with just cranking the engine with the starter but with no coil hooked up, until you get some oil pressure registering? Is this not an acceptable practice?
 

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I've always pre-oiled using a 1/4" drive speed wrench with a deep socket. With a HV pump it's all I can do to get oil up to the rockers but I like the feel of doing it by hand. I use the pre-oil as a way to get oil into the filter, galleries, lifters, and pushrods. I use assembly lube to protect the bearings for when I dry turn the motor during assembly so I don't worry too much about the bearings. Like the thread we had a few days ago, pre-oiling is a good way to make sure you have all the plugs in before buttoning up the engine; making sure thare are no leaks and oil is going to all the right places.
 

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I suggest welding that grinded socket onto a cheap extension bar you don't want back. You'd hate to lose that socket down in the engine.
 
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I use a half inch reversible, variable speed drill motor, attached to an old distributor shaft. Then you don't have to worry about losing a socket either. :)
 
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