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Discussion Starter #1
I’ve purchased the Scott Drake premium under dash wiring kit. There is a template for modifying the drivers side kick panel. I’m assuming to accommodate the modern fuse box. However no instructions were included. I would appreciate advice from people who have installed this wiring kit

Thank you!

Allen
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you for your input. This wiring is run as stock but has updated fuses as well as a couple of relays. I wanted these options. I was debating the original harness but wanted the upgrades.

Allen
 

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If the color codes are OEM, can you not wire per the factory diagram?
 

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Do you have a link to the harness you bought? I redid the wiring on my 65 coup a few years ago and was on the fence with which route to go between refurbing the original harness or getting a new one. I narrowed it down to new, and between alloy and Scott drake.... the drake stuff maybe just as good, the issue is the color wires are all over the place. It becomes an issue when you look at the original diagram and none of the colors match....

If I can see what harness you got maybe I can give you a little more help.
 

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I’ve purchased the Scott Drake premium under dash wiring kit. There is a template for modifying the drivers side kick panel. I’m assuming to accommodate the modern fuse box. However no instructions were included. I would appreciate advice from people who have installed this wiring kit

Thank you!

Allen
I purchased the same harness. Like you I wanted the relays and extra fuses. I agree the paper showing how to cut the kick panel is very confusing. I put some thin tape on my kick panel based on what I think the template indicated. After looking things over I believe the s shaped squiggle on the template in the upper left corner looks a lot like the actual kick panel top left corner. After laying out the tape per the template I decided that I was going to wait to run some of the harness in the dash and just cut the kick panel as little as possible around wherever I mount the fuse block. I think I'm going to mount it near the stock location only closer to the firewall and out of the way of the fresh air vent.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I’m sorry I didn’t make my question more clear. I don’t have an issue with the wiring part. The fuse block is bigger than the original and I assume that is why part of the kick panel is trimmed off. I was wondering how the fuse block is mounted.

Allen
 

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I’m sorry I didn’t make my question more clear. I don’t have an issue with the wiring part. The fuse block is bigger than the original and I assume that is why part of the kick panel is trimmed off. I was wondering how the fuse block is mounted.

Allen
OK I will make this reply shorter and hopefully easier to follow. From what I can tell the fuse block will be mounted in the general area where you cut out material from the kick panel, per the template. I had a problem following the template because its not to scale so I tried to explain what I did. I think it is safe to assume you can mount the fuse block anywhere you want as long as you can wire it up. I also think it safe to assume you will have to decide how and where you mount it. Just cut your kick panel, drill the nessesary holes and screw the fuse panel (and relays) to the metal behind the kick panel and you're good to start wiring.
 

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I… I think I'm going to mount it near the stock location only closer to the firewall and out of the way of the fresh air vent.
Huh? Moving it closer to the firewall will put in the gap between the side cowl and air vent, making the fuses virtually inaccessible.

 

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I bought the underdash harness for my 66, ended up cutting out the fuse block, lengthening the wires and mounting it behind my glove box. A little extra work but easy if you have the harness out. Just a thought.
 

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Huh? Moving it closer to the firewall will put in the gap between the side cowl and air vent, making the fuses virtually inaccessible.

First off nice looking under dash. I took a couple pictures that should help explain what the issue is. It appears they want you to mount the fuse block lower on the kick panel. How do you make your pics so large? I have pic envy!
 

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First off nice looking under dash. I took a couple pictures that should help explain what the issue is. It appears they want you to mount the fuse block lower on the kick panel. How do you make your pics so large? I have pic envy!
Well, to be fair, not my car. My 66 is unrestored in that area, which means you won't find nice white paint (or even any paint at all) above the fuse box.

The photos are hot-linked from elsewhere on the internet, chosen because they show the tight squeeze at the fuse box. Posting large photos should be no problem, if you use JPEGs.

This photo of my car does not show the fuse box.

 

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How did that wire harness work out once you mounted the larger longer fuse block? Did it tie into all the other feeds like a stock factory harness? I still haven't installed mine yet.
 

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Can anyone share some tips for installing this 'premium' harness? Process or procedure? Tips and suggestions? Start from the fuse panel? Trim the kick panel only after everything is in?

Did anyone run into problems with the various leads that come off the main harness being too short?

I tried to install a new "premium" reproduction under dash wire harness (with modern ATE fuse box) yesterday, and what a PITA!!!!! No instructions! No tips for process, best practice or where to start; couldn't even find suggestions on the forum or youtube.

ALL leads coming out of the main harness are too short! Headlight plug lead on my original harness is 7" long, and on the SD Premium reproduction harness it's only 5.5" long. I couldn't pull the darn thing hard enough or far enough to actually plug it in to the headlight switch!!! I would have to us a razor knife to trim the wrap on the insulation to pull more wire out of the main loom, assuming that would work! I didn't try.

Another thing is, it seems nearly impossible to plug the connectors onto a switch. The connectors have never been connected to anything and are WAY TOO TIGHT! Tried to plug in the hazard flasher module (lead was also too short) and the connectors will NOT seat all the way onto the spades on the module! Tried to connect it out of the car so I could actually apply straight even force to get it to seat and just folded a spade on the flasher!

The whole exercise was really frustrating! After trying to route it and lay it into position, I pulled it all back out last night around 8:00PM and reinstalled the original harness so I could start the car and move it back into the garage for the evening! Thoroughly upset by the whole exercise! Contemplating whether I try again or send it back!

I actually found myself wishing I never embarked on the exercise. I liked that the repro harness has the supposedly correct connectors/plugs to connect other accessories like my Rally Pac and fog lights since people have cut and hacked my harness over the years with miscellaneous hanging wire ends covered with electrical tape and/or household wire nuts 'splicing' accessories into the harness. But I expect better from a Scott Drake "Premium" product.

Maybe I need to pull my original harness back out and send it to Midlife for restoration. That way I get my original back which fits perfectly. Not sure if he can add/replace the hacked up bits of my harness without leaving leads too short. Need to calm down so I can think rationally and figure out my next steps! And let my bruised back and all the cuts on my hands heal from reaching under the dash.

Any insight or suggestions most welcome. Thanks!
 

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Wowser, I purchased the Wirring Assy, Under Dash Main, TH/C6ZZ-14401-PFB - Part 314401-2C NPD $500 bucks and was just fixing to start this project - Now you have me holding my breathe, and I haven't even started. I get the car back from Paint on Wednesday and will start taking a close look at the install. I'll try to update you on what I find, but might give NPD a call prior to starting and let them know my concerns. Thanks for the heads up!
 

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Hi Todd - The one recommendation I'd make right off the bat is, DO NOT CUT the kick-panel to accommodate the 12 circuit ATC fuse block until the rest of the installation is complete. The template that accompanies the wiring harness kit is not to scale. The template looks like something you can lay atop your kick panel to mark where to cut, but if you measure it you'll find the markings are not at the listed measurements.

You will need shorter #10 sheet metal screws (1/2"-3/4") or machine screws to mount the new fuse block since the original fuse block was an inch thick at the mounting points and the new one is only 1/4" thick. I found that if you mount the top screw of the new fuse block into the bottom screw hole/location of the original fuse block, it can be lined up similar to Bud's picture, but you'll have to drill a new mounting hole for the bottom end of the new fuse block.

When I had my new ATE fuse block mounted, it looked to me like it might not be necessary to cut such a large chunk out of the kick panel.

I'm curious how long your headlight plug lead is from the main loom to the back of the plug connector.
 

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Hi Todd,

Would you do me a favor and measure the length of the headlight lead on your new SD premium wiring harness? I'd like to see if it's the same length as mine. Do you still have your original harness? And is it out of the car? If so, could you send me a pic of the it next to the SD harness? Specifically, a close up of the difference in length of the headlight lead? I called Scott Drake and they want me to send some pics comparing the two, but my original harness had to be reinstalled in my car to move it back into the garage before the rain came.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

(Note that the attached pic appears to have an extra 1/4" of space at the end of the tape measure - that's a product of the angle at which I took the pic to avoid glare off the tape or the hardwood floor.)

Thanks!
 

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The original Wiring harness is still in the car - I was going to install the new harness as I unplug the old harness. Here's the SD measurements and photo. When I get the old harness out I'll take a photo and forward you the measurements. I talked to Scott Drake and they assured me that they have not heard of this issue and to keep them in the loop if I had any issues.
 

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