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Discussion Starter #1
Aight, after a few harsh words, I got the old seal out, but now how am I supposed to get the new one in? Im kinda stumped here and dont wanna bend the seal. It's goin in a 289 and is the kind of seal w/o the lip actually on the seal.
Thanks,
-Ryan
 
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I did this a couple of years ago myself and also had trouble finding the best way to get the new seal in. I believe I tapped mine in but if were to do it again I would try pressing it in with a vise-grip (a little at a time and work your way around the seal). The timing chain cover is fairly delicate, so be carefull or you'll break the lip.
 

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I usually try to use the old seal to push the new one in, if it`s too bad you might try a large socket. I also used a piece of 2x4 under the cover.
you want to be careful to get the thing to go STRAIGHT, if its crooked you could ruin it putting it in
 
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Discussion Starter #5
so if the seal gets bent, like even a fraction of an inch, will it be ok, or is it kaput?
 

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it may be still OK, however, it would be no fun to find out it leaks when you fire the motor up.
if you have damaged it, it may be worth the cost of a new one for a little peace of mind
 

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Gently tap it in with a hammer all around the edges, much like you'd put a lid on a paint can. If you're gentle and patient, you won't bend it. If you bend it slightly it won't be a big deal, but it's easy enough to do it, that you really shouldn't bend it.

As others have said, place a 2x4 under the timing chain cover to cushion the cover from the "pounding".

I don't think the pressing it in with vice grips will work very well.
 

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It's goin in a 289 and is the kind of seal w/o the lip actually on the seal.

Hmmm...perhaps you could explain? My SOP is metal cased lip seal...

Hope you didn't scratch up the cover bore ID when removing the old seal...if you did, using some loctite on the seal case might help the OD seal; make sure all parts are clean and grease free.

Only thing I'll add is to make sure the seal lip (the part with the little coil spring wrapped around it, which most have) faces the oil. There should be an outer dust seal lip which faces outside. Also, check the surface of the damper for grooves. If it has some, you can get tricky and not seat the seal all the way, thereby missing the grooves. This takes some practice but usually 1/16"-3/32" back will do it.

Any more questions? Post..
 

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Ditto on the two-by-four, I tried a large socket but it didn't work too well. I would try to press it in if possible.
 

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I had a header collector handy and the small end was perfect size to fit the seal. A wooden hammer tapped it in nicely.
 

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A friend of mine has a machine shop with a hydraulic press. We used a large socket and gently pressed it in(We used a support under the cover on the inside)
Worked great
 
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