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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all, I have something of a dilemma. I’m trying to get my pressure plate mounted on the back of my 289 so I can put my T-10 in, and had some questions about the hardware.

IMG_5296.jpg
IMG_5297.jpg

The dirty bolt is the old one, obviously. The hardware store didn’t have exactly the right thing, so I got two options. My questions are:

1. Which would you use and why?
2. How important is the unthreaded part at the top of the bolt?

I could cut the longer one and file it to the right size, but the unthreaded part is slightly longer than the original, which worries me slightly. However, if the unthreaded part is important, I don’t want to use the bolts without one.

All input helps!

Thanks, Alex


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Discussion Starter #3
Alex a auto parts store would be more in line with your needs. There are specific grade 5 or 8 ? bolts for this job. Brian
Mister Brian, I checked at two local auto parts stores before heading to the specialty hardware store. No luck! :mad: Thanks for pitching in.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Bump... hoping to get this thing done today.
 

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I would use the originals before a generic Grade 5/8 bolt. Flywheel/clutch bolts are a fairly high stress application. Also note that it's the correct length, so the pressure plate bears on the un-threaded portion of the bolt shank. You never want a sheer load bearing directly on the bolt threads.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I would use the originals before a generic Grade 5/8 bolt. Flywheel/clutch bolts are a fairly high stress application.
I agree, but I also forgot to mention.

Five of the six bolts I pulled off the pressure plate were normal, but one of them was threaded all the way to the top, like the new bolt in the pictures. When I pulled the transmission out, there was a broken lock washer in the bellhousing. I'm not sure where it was from. I'm just wondering if I can use the bolts that are threaded the entire length of the shaft.
 

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Well, I guess that depends on how great your need to get it together. Ideally get the proper bolts, you could probably get them in 2 days shopping online. If you have to throw it together, I'd at least use the 5 original bolts you have.
 

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Definitely would be worth the wait or reuse your old bolts.



 

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Your old bolt in the pic and the ones Macstang posted look very specific to me and it looks like the smooth shoulder is turned. Maybe not but I would not use anything other than that type of bolt new preferred but used if needed.
 

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Your old bolt in the pic and the ones Macstang posted look very specific to me and it looks like the smooth shoulder is turned. Maybe not but I would not use anything other than that type of bolt new preferred but used if needed.
Agree! My link is to the same bolt kit that @macstang posted and new is definitely preferred especially since I know this is a new rebuild...

Allen
 

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Your old bolt in the pic and the ones Macstang posted look very specific to me and it looks like the smooth shoulder is turned. Maybe not but I would not use anything other than that type of bolt new preferred but used if needed.
Not turned, the bolt is Forged that way, or more accurately, the threads are rolled into the blank bolt shank. Turning on a lathe causes many micro-tears, which cause stress risers, weakening the bolt.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I did some wider searching and found a kit locally.

Yes, I drove 45 minutes each way and paid $13 for it :grin2: Ah, the things we do for our cars.
 

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https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-150-2201/applications/make/ford/year/1966/engine-size/4-7l-289

They have an option for next day Saturday delivery...

If you wait until Friday afternoon to have to have something, it cost more...ask me how I know.

The only other option is to rob from another engine if you have one or if a buddy has one, local machine shop maybe, etc...

Allen
I know it might be too late but THIS...EXACTLY THIS.

Take it from me, the guy that had to remove and reinstall the trans because I was sent questionable bolts.
The shoulder is everything, it has to be right or you WILL have a vibration. Go with the ARP and nothing else.
 

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Anybody replacing the clutch needs the specific bolts with the shoulders to locate the pressure plate precisely. O'Reilly stores keep Mr Gasket pressure plate and flywheel bolts in stock.
 

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Anybody replacing the clutch needs the specific bolts with the shoulders to locate the pressure plate precisely. O'Reilly stores keep Mr Gasket pressure plate and flywheel bolts in stock.
Agreed, but I highly discourage using the Mr. Gasket bolts. I did and I had a vibration, replaced them with ARP bolts and all was right with the world.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Beats overnight Saturday delivery cost!! :grin2:

Allen
I dunno... my '92 F250 sure drinks a lot of gas on the highway... >:)

But, I have the bolts tonight! Pressure plate is mounted :)

clutch.PNG

Cheers, Alex
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I know it might be too late but THIS...EXACTLY THIS.

Take it from me, the guy that had to remove and reinstall the trans because I was sent questionable bolts.
The shoulder is everything, it has to be right or you WILL have a vibration. Go with the ARP and nothing else.
Anybody replacing the clutch needs the specific bolts with the shoulders to locate the pressure plate precisely. O'Reilly stores keep Mr Gasket pressure plate and flywheel bolts in stock.
Agreed, but I highly discourage using the Mr. Gasket bolts. I did and I had a vibration, replaced them with ARP bolts and all was right with the world.
Thanks for the concern and information, gents. I got the proper bolts :) Will keep you all updated on how the clutch performs.
 
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