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i did a compression test myself. the results were normal.
Please post the results. (very possible that you did post, but we need to start at the beginning you're thinking about rebuilding.
 

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I fought a carb problem on my 67 for about 4 years. Could not get my 4V to run right. Pulled the 4V intake and put the original 2V back on. Still had problems. Put the 4V intake back on with a different carb. Still had problems. Finally bought the carb in post 407 and presto...runs like a champ. I can now burn rubber for the first time in years.
 
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The poor guy says he's already tried 3 carbs. The consensus before he took the car in was that it likely wasn't the carb. So I dont think throwing more money at new and expensive parts and expecting a different result is prudent advice right now.

@scottl631 did the mechanic give you any more detail on what other troubleshooting he did besides rebuilding the carb and adjusting the timing? Did he check for vacuum leaks or do a new compression test? Is the car running any better at all? Have you discussed adjusting the valves?

For the record I most certainly would not let this guy rebuild your engine. Sounds like you found a lazy hack.
I tried 3 used carbs before I bit the bullet and got a new one. You results may vary....but it worked for me. If he could find a known good carb to borrow and try vs just buying a new one.
 

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Put a rubber hose on the vacuum advance canister on the dizzy and suck on it. (you can just pull the end off the carb) Can you pull a strong vacuum? If not, the diaphragm is broken. With the dizzy cap off, you should see the plate trying to move.
 

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Fill up at a different station....just to rule out the fuel.
 

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Looking at your statement in post 686, you lead us to believe that you had one post that was high. In reality, you only have one post that is low??? Sounds like ALL the other posts are taller than the one short one.
This is a completely different scenario.
 

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You also need to check flatness on top of the intake manifold and the bottom of the carb too. And....put in new gaskets.
 

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Believe it or not, I've read every post...
You said you've tried 3 different carbs. Where any of them "known" good carbs...meaning they ran fine on another engine and then just moved over to yours. If not, you really can't check that off your list. Can you share a bit about each carb you tried.
 
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And we broke the 1000 barrier (and I've read every one).

Do the leak down the yourself. As mentioned, you should really start leaning how to do things yourself and not rely your "experts". There are numerous experts here that can and will help...and are trying...but you are not listening.
 

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See if you can find an old school speed shop in your area to do the alignment. I once took mine to a local shop where the owner owned two Shelbys. I figured he knew old Mustangs. Wrong. They screwed the alignment big time. I then went to a local speed shop that I used years before...should have just gone back to them in the first place. If it weren't for them, I would have learned to do it myself.
 
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Looks like they set Caster to original factory specs. With modern radials caster should be more like 3 degrees (or more). Your total toe should be about 1/8".

No wonder is drives like you know what.
 

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no. he didnt ask anything like that. just that its a 289 and desired timing. he said i should be getting 40 total and 10-12 initial. he said the other distributor was too trashy to even be worth fixing. but even with the new one with a new vacuum advance i was still getting the choppy engine and idle issue. so maybe it was a combination of both? who knows.
But in your previous post you said the Dan stated the vacuum advance was not holding vacuum. Just because it's new doesn't mean it works properly (sad state of today's part)

Fingers crossed.
 

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I spent 5 years chasing a problem on my 67. Ran both 2V and 4V intakes. 3 different carbs, each rebuilt more than once. I finally broke down and bought a new 4V summit carb...should have done that 5 years ago.

Just because you rebuilt the carb 3 times doesn't mean your problem is not your carb. Since you don't seem to have access to a known good carb, you may consider buying a new one.
 

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This
I got this last year and never looked back.
 

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You say your timing is 12...that's only at idle. What is the actual timing curve of rpm vs degrees advance. You are only giving us one point on a curve. Run the engine at 500 rpm intervals and give us the timing advance.

You indicate that the idle mixture screws don't do much. They should have a huge effect. You should be able to stall the motor by running them all the way in. If not, you have a carb problem.
 
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