Vintage Mustang Forums banner

Problem still not solved

68434 2096
i must've posted this 10 times. its really bugging me. car stalls when put into gear. i know idle rpm should be at 475-500 in park but that'll never happen. but even if curb idle is at 1500, i throw her into gear and it shakes like a brick in a dryer then just dies. i checked carb adjustments, vacuum, timing, all seems fine there. i cant even drive the thing now. reward if anyone in east TN can shoot over and take a look
1 - 20 of 26 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
195 Posts
I tried to get caught up here since my last post on it. I know we've been going on and on about vacuum leaks. Have you tried spraying carb cleaner anywhere a vacuum leak could occur while the engine is running. If there is a leak the engine will rev when you spray. I'm sure you've done this, I just couldn't find where. Spray around the intake manifold, base of the carb, all vacuum lines. If you have power brakes, spray that line, same for the transmission line if it's an automatic. Is it possible there is an issue with the vacuum modulator in the trans itself (if auto)? Disconnect the vacuum line to the trans and block it off, see if that resolves the issue.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
195 Posts
i bumped my starter with the key enough for the pointer to point at 0 on my balancer. but my rotor did not point to #1. when i had it pointing at 12 degrees on my balancer, thats when my rotor pointed at #1. this is what i was asked to do the other day and was told this is normal. unless now im misunderstanding something?
Yes, if you're at 12 degrees TDC, it should be pointing at cylinder 1 on the cap.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
195 Posts
Hmmm, so the plunger will lift up and not go down...that's a problem for sure. Pretty much impossible to get the right preload if that spring won't move and if it's not all the way up to begin with. Might want to add a cam and lifters to your supply list.
Engine refresh incoming.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
195 Posts
The "flicking" of the tachometer needle would, to me, indicate an ignition misfire. A "hunting" idle caused by a carburetion/fuel system issue would, typically, see a slower reaction of the tach.
What are the odds that he has a wiped or in the process of wiping a cam lobe? He had that one messed up push rod a while back and some other issues with that spring if I recall correctly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
195 Posts
i'm just guessing that its at 20 now. i know its way above 12 because my engine didnt like it at 12 but i'll double check it to make sure. i just know that i set it right before the pinging starts.
If your engine didn't like it at 12, thats a problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
195 Posts
even with a big cam as somebody earlier suggested?
Our 306 has a big cam and it hated 20 degrees at idle. We didn't set it there on purpose, that's where it sat when we had to drop the distributor back in, so we had to bring it back down to 12.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
195 Posts
If your willing to double check the timing chain Ill send you new timing chain, water pump, and front oil pan gaskets. Its not like I don’t have a bunch laying around.
I think this is really what needs to happen. With pictures of the alignment of the gears.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
195 Posts
Okay.... what do we know (or assume to be correct)....

1. The engine has compression within specifications (130-170 psi with < 20 psi variance).
2. The valve timing is correct (OP states dots properly aligned).
3. The valve preload is correct.
4. The idle fuel/air mixture is acceptable (it ain't dumping fuel into the cylinders).

As I understand the "symptoms"....

a. The engine wants a lot of initial timing.
b. The engine "shakes" and runs roughly.

What I perceive to be potential causes....

1) Accurate ignition timing not represented (wrong cylinder used for reference, balancer/pointer mismatch, defective timing light dial-back feature).
2) Ignition misfire due to:
a) High secondary resistance
b) Inductive crossfire
c) Defective distributor cap or rotor
d) Distributor cam/reluctor phasing issue
e) Improper firing order
f) Ignition primary fault (defective breaker points or condenser, defective solid state trigger or module, shorting/grounding lead-wire, etc.).

Note that we're making assumptions that the valve preload actually IS correct and that valve TIMING is correct. I would find it unlikely that satisfactory cranking compression numbers would be achieved without these assumptions being correct.
I'm curious to know which of the two 302 firing orders he's using.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
195 Posts
well it is an aftermarket balancer. do these things actually balance things? maybe its throwing off the balance? maybe i'll throw the old one back on.
what do you guys want pics and videos of? and yes stock points does the same thing. i was thinking of getting a new pertronix, but i doubt thats the issue
They're designed to absorb shakes, vibrations, and sounds from the engine. If it's not the correct balancer or it's failing it can cause harsh vibrations, even crank failures over time. Do you know what ounce it is?
 
1 - 20 of 26 Posts
Top