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Spammer Hammer
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He sounds much closer than I. I would definitely try that route first. Don’t take it personal, but I’m not interested in driving three hours to do anything but race. All my tools are here. I’m comfortable working at my place. Honestly, if you would do as I have suggested, you can likely do it yourself and have a huge sense of accomplishment…especially considering all those that have failed you thus far.

Start with a fresh rebuilt distributor. Tune it properly. Then move to a KNOWN GOOD carburetor.
 

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1967 mustang coupe v8 289
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1,185 Posts
Discussion Starter · #983 ·
By the way guys, Seymour is only 16 miles from my house. :rolleyes:
i didn't mean to offend anybody. the resume thing was sort of a joke since every shop i brought it to around here claim to be uber experienced old time ford mechanics. then turns out not to be the case. i'm just getting tired of wasting my time and money. my next step if i am going to spend time and money is on someone how really knows what they are doing. i don't know you or your qualifications so thats why i had to ask. but since you are so close, its worth a shot
 

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He sounds much closer than I. I would definitely try that route first. Don’t take it personal, but I’m not interested in driving three hours to do anything but race. All my tools are here. I’m comfortable working at my place. Honestly, if you would do as I have suggested, you can likely do it yourself and have a huge sense of accomplishment…especially considering all those that have failed you thus far.

Start with a fresh rebuilt distributor. Tune it properly. Then move to a KNOWN GOOD carburetor.
Do you have any references? I wouldn't include @silverblueBP if I were you...

Allen
 

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1967 mustang coupe v8 289
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Discussion Starter · #985 ·
He sounds much closer than I. I would definitely try that route first. Don’t take it personal, but I’m not interested in driving three hours to do anything but race. All my tools are here. I’m comfortable working at my place. Honestly, if you would do as I have suggested, you can likely do it yourself and have a huge sense of accomplishment…especially considering all those that have failed you thus far.

Start with a fresh rebuilt distributor. Tune it properly. Then move to a KNOWN GOOD carburetor.
i understand. having the distributor rebuilt is the only thing i have not tried yet since i havent had my car in almost a month. and taking it to other shops etc. the carb i have now seems to be the best working one i have as all others have been worse.
 

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1967 mustang coupe v8 289
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Discussion Starter · #990 ·
Did you ask the shop to see if they had a known good carburetor to try on your car? It's worth asking to rule it out...

Allen
i did ask them. they said they dont have old parts like that laying around. but they swear the problem is solved by sanding down the spacer.
 

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1967 mustang coupe v8 289
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Discussion Starter · #991 ·
i think at this point i'm either gonna try to swap the intake and carb(4bbl) or just bite the bullet and invest in a new previously loved engine. and find someone to help drop it in. im starting to thing maybe mine is just old and needs a rebuild. but that could cost around the same as a new one
 

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i did ask them. they said they dont have old parts like that laying around. but they swear the problem is solved by sanding down the spacer.
That right there tells you this shop does not work on old Fords. Any shop that actually works on old cars would have carburetors and distributors and alternators because many owners just get parts like these changed to different parts. You can't expect a shop to actually tell you they are not "expert" when they are going to get paid even if they don't fix the problem. You are learning what many here have learned before you. If you want to own and enjoy your antique Mustang, you should become your own mechanic.
 

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i think at this point i'm either gonna try to swap the intake and carb(4bbl) or just bite the bullet and invest in a new previously loved engine. and find someone to help drop it in. im starting to thing maybe mine is just old and needs a rebuild. but that could cost around the same as a new one
Let's take this statement as a good starting point for a fresh view.... a "tired" engine means the short block is worn out. The symptoms would be low compression past the rings and/or low oil pressure due to worn bearings. If the low compression is due to the heads, identified by a leak down test, then heads can be worked on or replaced separate from the short block. The intake and carburetor is even far more removed from the "health" of the engine itself. Same with distributor and ignition.

My advise would be to slow down a little and identify where the actual problem is. Then evaluate your options.
 

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1967 mustang coupe v8 289
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Discussion Starter · #994 ·
Let's take this statement as a good starting point for a fresh view.... a "tired" engine means the short block is worn out. The symptoms would be low compression past the rings and/or low oil pressure due to worn bearings. If the low compression is due to the heads, identified by a leak down test, then heads can be worked on or replaced separate from the short block. The intake and carburetor is even far more removed from the "health" of the engine itself. Same with distributor and ignition.

My advise would be to slow down a little and identify where the actual problem is. Then evaluate your options.
how slower can i go? this whole thread was about trying to figure out where the problem is. as per my compression test, the results were normal. my oil pressure gauge is in the middle. assuming thats normal. a mustang guy i met from a show swears its worn valve springs and is willing to bet money on it by replacing them all. everyone on here says thats not possible.
so im not sure if its just something easy as replacing my carb/intake and distributor. but those are my next targets.
 

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@scottl631 , I do not know @Rufus68 , however, I can tell you he is going to be your best option. I agree, don't throw the baby out with the bath water. IIRC, your compression test on the cylinders were good. It sounds like you are dealing with a 1) distributor/timing, 2) carburetor, 3) vacuum leak issue.

@patrickstapler has suggested these things as well.

Also, the people on this forum aren't responding to you to try and profit off of your lack of knowledge. They're actually trying to help you. And as @Rufus68 said earlier, you may actually gain a friend. Let someone who is actually concerned about getting your car running correctly help you...

I'll be watching...

Allen

Edit: I was typing as you were. I see you also said the compression test were normal. Since you brought up valve springs, does the shop you're using have a valve spring tester?
 

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leakdown test.
 

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~1000 posts....
In post #1, you said car stalls when you put it into gear. Is this still the issue you are trying to resolve or has it morphed into something else?
 

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1967 mustang coupe v8 289
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Discussion Starter · #998 ·
~1000 posts....
In post #1, you said car stalls when you put it into gear. Is this still the issue you are trying to resolve or has it morphed into something else?
morphed into something else. but it could be related. back then i would throw it in gear and the idle would be so low it would stall. no matter how i adjusted the carb
 

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Discussion Starter · #999 ·
@scottl631 , I do not know @Rufus68 , however, I can tell you he is going to be your best option. I agree, don't throw the baby out with the bath water. IIRC, your compression test on the cylinders were good. It sounds like you are dealing with a 1) distributor/timing, 2) carburetor, 3) vacuum leak issue.

@patrickstapler has suggested these things as well.

Also, the people on this forum aren't responding to you to try and profit off of your lack of knowledge. They're actually trying to help you. And as @Rufus68 said earlier, you may actually gain a friend. Let someone who is actually concerned about getting your car running correctly help you...

I'll be watching...

Allen

Edit: I was typing as you were. I see you also said the compression test were normal. Since you brought up valve springs, does the shop you're using have a valve spring tester?
i don't, but i will ask them. i should ask them to do a leak down test as well. but im losing faith in them
 
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