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Discussion Starter #1
Well, this is my first mustang, 68 coupe, and let me tell ya, WOW!!! This thing is SOOO beautiful. It's so much like a woman, beautiful to look at but difficult to understand.

Anyway, before I got this car, I couldn't even change the oil. Now I'm in the planning stages of putting leaf springs and an air conditioner in. I've fixed wiring issues, leaky windows, shot door handles, bad starter and last night after replacing the solanoid, the power steering went bye-bye.

At least I'm assuming the power steering. I did a 3 point turn to switch sides of the street so the city can 'clean' it. Everything went fine, but when I got out I noticed a fluid trail. I dropped underneath and saw a clear, red(pinkish) fluid leaking from a gold colored clamp. The clamp is on the tie rod I think. It's behind the driver's side wheel. There's a little nipple on the gold clamp. Right on top of the clamp, is a fairly big nut with a cotter pin in it. Between the gold clamp and the nut there is a rubber gasket or rubber seal that appears t0 be shot. Could this be the case, or is something else hosed?

I followed the tubes down from the power steering box (i think) and they both kinda meet right around this area. They both appear to have good solid connections.
Sooo, if this is the problem, can i replace that seal, is it expensive and difficult to fix? I'm kinda at a loss for a good work area, i'm stuck using the streets of pittsburgh PA. Can I drive it without damaging anything?
I would really like to fix this myself if at all possible.
Thanks for the great web-page and any help that you guys and gals can give me.

Peace
Jay
 

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I believe a rebuild kit is 31.95 bucks at NPD. The new hoses are not cheap (which are usually old and need to be replaced). A set of four hoses run about 25 buck each (and there are 4). While you are at it, you should rebuild the whole system. Do not do this piecemeal or you will be buying some parts twice (I know this from experience). I think I spent about 300 last year to redo the whole system after almost spending that much doing it piecemeal over the last 6 years.

John L. Anschutz
Allen, TX
68 Diamond Blue Coupe - 302
68 Acapulco Blue Coupe - I6 - 200
http://www.dallas.net/~jjmsansc/parts/Stangs.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #3
so, you think it's best to buy a whole rebiuld kit and do it all at once? What's a good book or manual that will show me how to do this?

Thanks man
jay
 

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Invest in a Ford Shop Manual for your car.... This book has diagrams and procedures to do almost anything to your car. There is a long cylinder or the control valve that may be leaking (or maybe a hose). The control valve contains two rubber disc washers and the cylinder has replaceable packing in the end.

I have temporarily fixed PS leaks by simply adding a couple tablespoons of brake fluid to the PS fluid.



Required tools for operating a Vintage Mustang:
1. Duct Tape
2. J.B. Weld
3. B.F.H. (Big Fat Hammer)
4. VINTAGE MUSTANG FORUMS II
[color:red]VIEW ALBUM:</font color=red> http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1616948&a=12352157
 

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Discussion Starter #5
thanks. Where can I get one of those manuals at and will I damage the car by driving it without fluid??

thanks again
 

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Any Mustang vendor will carry the book. Best way to run car is without P/S for now, just remove the belt that drives the P/S pump

[color:blue]68 GT500[color:blue]
[color:green]68 1/2 CJ Coupe</font color=green>

[color:red]MCA# 18519[color:red]
 

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Jay,

If you need some help, I could help you since you said that you are from Pittsburgh. I rebuilt my PS system on a 70 sportroof that I used to have and I had no problems after the rebuild. What part of Pittsburgh are you from? I live in Irwin, which is east of Pittsburgh (exit 7 on the Pike).

Mike Boyle

My car is a Winter Blue 1969 convertible with black standard interior. It has an original (untouched) 302 2V C4 with ~53,000 miles on it.

1994 F150 Extended Cab 4x4
2000 Taurus
 
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